Lialver
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMate### Description of the Traverse of Bezengi Wall Peaks from Shkhara to Jangitau Account of the traverse of the Bezengi Wall peaks from Shkhara to Jangitau, accomplished by a group of climbers in 1964.
2. Group Composition and Support
The mountaineering group that completed the traverse consisted of athletes with the 1st sports category from the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering, held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp:
- Saratov Yu.S. — group leader,
- Beda A.G.,
- Golubkov B.S.,
- Daruga V.K. Three of the group members had experience climbing in the Bezengi region in previous seasons. All participants underwent joint training during the pre-camp period and completed training ascents:
- 3B — Ullu-Auz-Bashi
- 4B — Main Jangitaus via the northern edge, category of complexity in the 1964 season.
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraversing Bezengi Wall with an ascent to Shkhara via the northern edge, accomplished by a group of climbers in 1960 in 8 travel days under challenging weather conditions.
Moscow City Council
VSS "TRUD" TRAVERSING THE BEZENGI WALL WITH ASCENT TO SHKHAra VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE 1960 Leader: Gavrilov B. A. Participants:
- Moiseev Yu. A.
- Mosunov A. A.
- Chereshkin D. S. In July-August 1960, a gathering of qualified climbers from the Moscow City Council of VSS "Trud" was held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp. The plan included participating in the Moscow championship in the traverse class. The Bezengi Wall was chosen as the object, whose traverse with ascent to Shkhara via the northern ridge had only been done once before in 1948 by a group from VSS "Spartak" led by Honored Master of Sports Abalakov V. M.
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of a combined 4B category route to the peaks of Lyalver, Gestola, and Tetnuld from the village of Zhemashi via the Tsanner glacier.
- Lyalver — Tetnuld (the route is combined, by I. Shintlmeister, category 4B difficulty level, fig. 20, 22). From the village of Zhabishi, ascend via the trail on the left bank of the Tsanner River and, bypassing the first step of the icefall, descend onto the glacier. Along the left side of the glacier, approach the second step, which is traversed on its left side. The third step is also passed on the left via the snowy-icy slopes of the spur, and beyond it, exit onto the upper plateau of the Tsanner Glacier. On the moraine, in the center of the upper plateau, closer to the slopes of Tikhtengen on the Tsanner площадках (Tsanner sites), set up the initial bivouac. From the village of Zhabishi, it takes 10–14 hours. From the bivouac site, turn right
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Gestola peak (4850 m) via Lalver, complexity category 3Б, with a detailed description of the route and overnight stays.
Lalver – Gestola, traverse, 3B cat. diff. The red dotted line is the ascent route. The blue dotted line indicates the 4A route. The black dotted line indicates a possible emergency descent option, the route is unclassified. Green labels — overnight stops.
- 4 — Chyornye Osypi bivouac.
1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lalver
Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the Bezingi Wall. Ascent to Gestola via Lalver is classified as 3B cat. diff.
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateAscent route description from Nizhny Tsanner pass to the summit: 3-4 hours ascent, 2 hours descent.
LYALVER, 4350 m, via NE ridge (from N. Tsanner Pass), Cat. 2B diff.
Initial bivouac — on the edge of the rocky side of the Lower Tsanner icefall (point 3). From N. Tsanner Pass, move along the snowy NE ridge, to the right of the ridge line, to a rocky outcrop. Leaving the outcrop on the right, ascend 200 m up a snowy-icy slope with a slope angle of up to 45°, reaching the rocks. Ascend the rocks 300–350 m to a snowy ridge and continue up the ridge to the summit. From the pass, 3–4 hours. Descent via the ascent route — 2 hours.