Moscow Alpine Climbing Championship

Technical Class Report on the ascent of Pik Usen Via the Southeastern Wall counterfort (first ascent)

Ascent Passport

1. Mountain system: Pamir-Alay Region: Karavshin Valley: Kara-Su Peak name: Usen, 4378 m

Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karasu gorge, Karavshin valleys.
3. Peak 4379 (Usen) via the center of the east face.
4. Proposed 5A–5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 570 m, length — 840 m, length of sections 5B–6 cat. diff. — 270 m, average steepness 65°.
6. Pitons driven: | Type of pitons | Quantity (1) | Quantity (2) | | :------------- | :----------- | :----------- | | rock | 74 | 20 |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
3. Peak — Usan (4379) via the crevice on the eastern wall.
4. Proposed category — 4B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. Route length — 765 m. Length of sections with IV–V cat. diff. — 555 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 60°. Height difference — 470 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 9, chocks — 58.
7. Climbing hours — 12.
8. Leader — Sergey G. Kritsuk — 1st sports category.

· The descent route from p. Uson along the rжаной ridge. Taken on July 18, 1990 from the perenka, altitude 3800 m, distance to the summit 600 m, 12:00, camera «Смена-7».