4310 — Gestola, NE ridge, traverse, 4A cat. Route of ascent to the top. Gestola through Mt. Lyalver.

• Red dashed line — ascent route
• 4A route is indicated by a blue dashed line
• A possible emergency descent route, unclassified route, is indicated by a black dashed line
• Green labels — overnight stays 4 — Chyornye Osypi (Black Talus) stop.

1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lyalver.

Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge, in the Bezengi Wall. The ascent to Gestola via Lyalver is classified as 3B cat. difficulty.

Lalver – Gestola, traverse, 3B cat. diff. The red dotted line is the ascent route. The blue dotted line indicates the 4A route. The black dotted line indicates a possible emergency descent option, the route is unclassified. Green labels — overnight stops.

• 4 — Chyornye Osypi bivouac.

1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lalver

Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the Bezingi Wall. Ascent to Gestola via Lalver is classified as 3B cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Peak name: Gestemony; route name: via the North wall (M. Khergiani, 1959)
3. Complexity category: 5Б
4. Route character: combined
5. Route height difference: 1960 m (by altimeter) Route length: 2990 m. Section length: V category: 938 m, VI category: 140 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route: 65 °

1. Gestola, NE buttress — Cat. 4B

The initial bivouac is on the edge of the rocky side of the Lower Tsanner ice fall (point 3). Approach to the western slopes at the base of the NE buttress across the upper plateau of the N. Tsanner Glacier (covered crevasses!). Exit to the ridge of the buttress via a gentle snowy slope of 120–150 m. Up along the ridge (overhanging cornices to the east!) to a depression in the ridge. Ascend a snowy-icy slope to the right of a rocky outcrop: 100 m up a steep (50–60°) ice pitch from the bergschrund, then 150–200 m along a snowy ridge to a snowy-icy "cushion" to the right of a gendarme on the NE buttress. In a depression below the gendarme, it is possible to set up an overnight stay. From the depression, ascend 80–100 m up a sharp snowy ridge, then traverse left for 20 m along the boundary between rocks and snow (ice), and then up easy rocks — an ascent of 80–100 m to a shoulder of the ridge. 30–40 m along a gentle snowy ridge to the summit. 8–12 hours from the bivouac. Descent to the "saddle" of Gestola and further — as per description 2. Recommended ascent plan to Gestola peak via Lyalver:

• Day 1 — approach to the initial bivouac site;
• Day 2 — N. Tsanner Pass – Lyalver – Bezymyanaya (4310) – "saddle" of Gestola;
• Day 3 — ascent to the summit and descent via the ascent route to the initial bivouac site;
• Day 4 — return to camp. via the NE buttress of Bezymyanaya:
• Day 1 — approach to the initial bivouac site;