Report

Peaks SAVO (6088)—Vazha Pshavela (6918) Central Tien Shan

Expedition of CS and MGS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Glukhov V.V.—captain, MSMS
Bobrov V.I.—coach, CMS
Zasetsky V.G.—participant, CMS
Petruk V.P.—participant, CMS
Soustin B.P.—participant, MS

Belarusian Federation of Alpinism

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Peak Pobeda 7439, Zap. Pobeda, Main, via the north edge from Dikiy Pass, 5B, by D. Medzmariashvili 2019

Route Passport

1. Mountain region: Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan.
2. Name of the summit: Peak Pobeda (7439 m).
3. Category of difficulty: 5B high-altitude.
4. Nature of the route: snow-rock-ice.
5. Route:
   • Zvezdochka glacier, Dikiy Pass, Peak Pobeda West along the northern edge, Peak Pobeda Main, 7439 m, descent via the ascent route;

Passport

1. Altitude class.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge.
3. Pobeda (Main) via Dikiy Pass over Pobeda (3) by 3rd category.
4. 6A category of complexity.
5. Elevation difference: 3039 m, distance — 10090 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route (Western ridge from Dikiy Pass to 6700 m) – 44° (5230 m – 6700 m), the whole route – 19° (4400 m – 7439 m).
6. Previously hammered-in pitons: 15 rock, 8 ice, 1 snow (not removed). Hammered-in pitons: rock – 0, ice – 0, snow – 0.
7. Team's walking hours: 26 hours, 5 days.

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge
3. Peak Pobeda Gl. summit (7439 m) via West summit from Dikiy pass from Zvezdochka glacier
4. Category of complexity — 5B
5. Height difference — 3039 m Average steepness of the ridge part of the route — 40°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock pitons — 5*
   • bolt pitons — 8
   • chocks — 6

Arkhangelsk region, Severodvinsk Sports club "Sever"

Ascent Passport.

1. Ascent classification: high-altitude ascents to peaks above 6990 m,
2. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek glacier.
3. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via Vazha Pshavela
4. Complexity category: 5B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 3039 m (by altimeter);
6. Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
2. Peak name: Peak Pobeda, route name — Pobeda Main via v. Vazi Pshaveli with pass. Diky
3. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty. Route character: combined
4. Route height difference: 3000 m Route length: Section length: Average steepness of the main route part:
5. "Hooks" left on the route: total; including pitons.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class — High-altitude

2. Ascent Area — Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge
3. Ascent Route — Peak Pobeda Main (7439 m) via 3rd category route, through Peak Pobeda West, from Glacier Zvezdochka
4. Complexity Category — 5B–6A, combined
5. Route Characteristics: height difference — 3240 m; of which wall section — 980 m; total route length — 8650 m; wall section length — 1450 m;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
2. Ascent region — Central Tien Shan.
3. Peak, route — Pobeda peak via Vaja-Pshavela pass along the 3rd ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Height difference — 3439 m.

• including the wall section — absent.
• Total route length — 20 km.
• Wall section length — absent.

6. Pitons driven: rock 0/0, ice 0/0, chocks 0/0, bolted 0/0.

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class.
2. Central Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge.
3. Pobedy (Main) via col. Dikiy through pass Pobedy (3) by 3rd category.
4. 6A category of difficulty.
5. Height difference: 3039 m, distance — 10090 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (Western ridge from col. Dikiy to 6700 m) — 44° (5230 m–6700 m), total route — 19°.
6. Previously hammered pitons used and not removed — 15

Pitons hammered:

| | Rock | Ice | Snow |

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokmaal-Too ridge
3. Peak Pobeda (Gl.), via the western peak from Zvezdochka glacier, 7439 m
4. 5B cat. diff.
5. Elevation gain – 3439 m, distance – 6000 m
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 2+10², ice – 6+8²
7. Ice hours – 25, days – 4
8. Overnights: I – in a snow cave, 2, 3, 4 – in a tent
9. Team: Nagovitsyna Elena Yulyevna, CMS; Roslyakov Sergey Viktorovich, CMS.