89. Traverse of Kukryniksy Severaya - Yuzhnaya The route is rocky, Category 1B complexity (Fig. 5, 87, 93, 94). Length - 2600 m, elevation gain - 630 m, time - 6-7 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alplager (group size not limited) to the Kukryniksy Severaya summit - see route 87. From the Severaya summit:

• descend 50-80 meters down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the South ridge to the col;
• then traverse 450-500 m along the talus with some easy broken rock on the right side of the long ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Glavnaya summit (30-40 minutes from Severaya). From the Glavnaya summit:
• descend down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the 100-120-meter South ridge to the col;
• traverse along the easy broken rock and talus of the 700-800-meter col to approach the North ridge of Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya;
• from the col, ascend the simple, possibly snow-covered, 150-200-meter rock of the North ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya summit (1-1.5 hours from Glavnaya). Descend along the talus slope via Kievyanka pass.

28

30

1. Class — rock
2. Area — Kiçik-Alay ridge
3. Peak — Kukrniksov (4160 m) First ascent via the north wall of the eastern ridge (combined)
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Height difference — 630 m Length of sections R0–R1 cat. diff. — NONE, average steepness — 43°
6. Hammered in pitons:

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

28 30

1. CATEGORY — rock climbing
2. REGION — KIChIK-ALAI ridge
3. PEAK — KUKRYNIKOSOV (S) (4160 m) first ascent via the north face of the eastern ridge (combined)
4. PROPOSED cat. diff. — 3B
5. Elevation gain — 630 m Length of sections with R0–R6 cat. diff. — NONE, average steepness — 43°
6. PITOONS DRIVEN: