Khabarovsk Alpinistok
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraverse of the peaks Coya and Khabarovsk Alpinists, cat. 2A, 6-7 hours, ridge route with dense firn and piton belay.
Mt. Tsoya (2130 m) – Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m), category 2A
From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun River, move 40 minutes downstream. Having rounded the entire Northeast ridge of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok, reach the foot of Mt. 1942. The ascent to Mt. Tsoya is done along the Northeast ridge via Mt. 1942. The right slope of the ridge is covered with very dense firn, movement is only possible in crampons. The time taken to move along the ridge to Mt. Tsoya is 2–2.5 hours. Insurance is simultaneous. Mt. Tsoya is a snow-covered dome. Further movement from the summit along the Southeast ridge:
- Insurance is simultaneous.
- Movement is in crampons.
- After 20–25 minutes, reach a large "gendarme" which is overcome "head-on".
- The use of pitons or camming devices is possible.
- The further ridge is heavily dissected, several small 20–30-meter "gendarmes" are encountered, passable "head-on" with alternating insurance.
- 1 hour 20–30 minutes after the large "gendarme", reach the summit tower.
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of the Category 1B route to the summits of Khabarovsk Alpinistok (2166 m) and Ulun (2221 m) with recommendations on equipment and ascent tactics.
9. Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m)
Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty
From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m). After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory! The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge:
- rocky, fairly narrow;
- drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep;
- partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement;
- features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.