Pik Igla

Peak4,770 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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The route of traversing the peak Igla (4530 m) massif from Matсha Pass, cat. 5B, climbed by a group of climbers led by D. Malykhin in 1969

The Matcha mountain node is the junction of three huge ridges: Altai, Turkestan, and Zeravshan. All of them are part of the Pamir-Alay system. In the southwest direction from Matcha Pass is located Peak Igla. This summit closes the main flow of the Zeravshan Glacier and is like the center of the entire node. Peak Igla is a rocky ridge. It is not a separate pointed peak, as one might assume judging by the name, but several pointed peaks united in a single massif.

  • North Peak (4430 m) — named after Peak Lyubov Yakovlevna Pakharkova — Honored Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering.
  • Middle Peak (4510 m) — Central Igla.
  • Southwest Peak (4530 m) — Main Igla. Traversing the Igla massif from Matcha Pass is rated 5A category of difficulty (approximately by Yu. MALYKHIN — team leader, A. DAVYDOV, L. EGOROV, N. ORLOV). August 5, 1969. From the assault camp located on Matcha Pass (3870 m):
  • Ascend via the glacier, bypassing the spur from the left side (when looking up) to the bergschrund.
  • From the bergschrund — up the snowy slope to the snowy ridge and along it to the rocky wall.
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First ascent of Malaya Igla peak (4350 m) by the South-Eastern Ridge, grade 4A, Pamir-Alay, Yavrazhansky ridge.

Description of the Ascent Route to Peak 4350 "Malaia Igla" via the Southeast Ridge

/First ascent/

Group Composition:

  1. Rudnev V.S. — leader
  2. Malykhin Yu.M. — coach
  3. Egorov L.A.
  4. Zhelonkin E.F.
  5. Pavlovsky E.S.
  6. Sofronov I.D.
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Climbing route description to the summit "Glavnaya Igla" via the South-Eastern slope in the Pamir-Alay mountains, category of complexity 2B.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE "GLAVNAYA IGLA" SUMMIT VIA THE SOUTHEAST SLOPE. 1969 Group composition: GLADILIN L.S. (leader), RUDNEV V.S., ABLESIMOV V.E., GITERMAN B.P. The Iglá summit is located in the Pamir-Alay mountains, at the junction of the:

  • Alay range,
  • Turkestan range,
  • Zeravshan range (see diagram 1). The Iglá summit (see diagram 2, photo 1) is a massif consisting of three peaks, conditionally named:
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