Цеткин Клары

Peak6,641 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent description of Peak K. Zetkin (6680 m) via the West Face, rated 6B difficulty, made in 1953 by a team led by Nikolay Dyachenko.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — high-altitude
  2. Ascent area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range (4.1)
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak K. Zetkin, 6680 m, West face.
  4. Difficulty category — 6B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2280 m, average steepness — 73°, length of complex sections — 834 m.
  6. Pitons hammered for insurance: rock — 249, ice — 12.
  7. Number of travel hours — 77.
  8. Number of nights — 13.
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants:
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Report on the ascent of category 6 difficulty route on the western wall of Klára Zetkin peak and traverse of K.Zetkin - Kommunizma peaks in 1987.

PASSPORT

  1. Altitude class.
  2. Pamir, Walter Glacier.
  3. Peak K. Tsetkin via West face — Peak Kommunizma.
  4. Category 6B difficulty.
  5. Elevation difference to Peak Kommunizma — 2895 m, to Peak K. Tsetkin — 2080 m. Distance to Peak Kommunizma — 9140 m, to Peak K. Tsetkin — 2642 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 3425 m, of which 6B category — 270 m. Average steepness of the third wall of Peak K. Tsetkin — 55°.
  6. Pitons used: | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | Ice screws | | :--- | :--- | :---- | :-------- |
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Ascent report of Bobrov's team on Peak K. Zetkin via the west wall, category 6 difficulty, second traverse of the SAVO 1976 route.

Climbing Passport

  1. Climbing category — high-altitude
  2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir, l. Walter, Academy of Sciences ridge
  3. Peak, its height, route — p. K. Zetkin, 6680 m, via the W wall
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6 (second ascent)
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2150 m. length of sections with 5–6 diff. — 1200 m. average steepness — 70° (the wall itself is 75°)
  6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 202 (36 on descent and 20 for bivouac) for creating ITO — 6 rock — 202
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Description of the first ascent via the west wall of Peak Klary Tsetkin (Pamir, 6680m) in 1976 by a team of 8 mountaineers.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent classification: high-altitude technical
  2. Ascent area: Northwest Pamir, Walter Glacier
  3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: West wall of Peak Klara Zetkin, 6680 m.
  4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2280 m, average steepness 73°, length of complex section 834 m
  5. Number of pitons: rock 253 ice 13, expansion bolts 2
  6. Number of travel hours: 83 h
  7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: seven (five semi-reclining, two reclining).
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