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Route Description: СЗ ребру

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
first ascentglacier travelice climbingice screw placementslab avalanchestrip report

Ascent to Trapeziya Peak (3740 m) via NW edge from Dzhankuat Glacier North, category 2A, snow and ice route.

Ascent Log

  1. Class — rock.
  2. Elbrus region, Central Caucasus.
  3. Peak Trapezia (3740 m), via NW edge from the North Djan-kuat glacier.
  4. Difficulty category — 2A, first ascent.
  5. Route character: snow-ice, height difference from the glacier 300 m, steepness of the upper part 45°, length 180 m.
  6. Belay: when approaching the upper bergschrund — via ice axe, on the slope via ice screws, 17 pieces driven in total.
  7. Number of travel hours from the bivouac at "Green Hotel" 6–7 hours, descent from the summit — 2.5–3 hours.
  8. Group is training:
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