1. Materials about the Semenov Peak area

Semenov Peak (5816 m), one of the most famous peaks in the Central Tian Shan, is located in the eastern part of the Sarydzhas ridge in the upper reaches of the eponymous glacier. The huge glaciated mass of Semenov Peak is the highest point of this ridge. East of Semenov Peak, in the Sarydzhas ridge, rises a two-headed peak (5437 m) - an important orographic node of Tian Shan. Here, the Terskey Alatau ridge (under the name of Katta-Ashutor) connects with Sarydzhas. The orography of the Semenov Peak area is incorrectly shown on:

• the map of military topographers from 1943
• in the articles by A. Letavet and Timoshev "Conquest of the Marble Wall Peak"
• in the diagram by Nozdryukhin, etc. The true structure of this area was first shown on the diagram by V. Kolokolnikov (1953). And to the west (approximately 5 km away) is the unnamed peak "5488 m", which is also a photographic node (the Adyr-Tor ridge branches off from it, serving as a watershed between the Semenov and Mushketov glaciers). In addition to the two main ridges mentioned, a powerful southeast spur branches off from the peak, from which in turn further branch off:

Passport

1. Class — traverse.
2. Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Peaks — South (5500 m), East (5561 m), Main (5650 m) of the Sovetskaya Kirgiziya massif with ascent via the right counterfort of the South ridge.
4. Cat. dif. — 6A (approximate), first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1450 m, length — 4360 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 1930 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 56°, average steepness of the wall part of the route — 65°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 6/1
   • bolt: 0/0
   • chocks: 92/2

Passport

1. Class — winter ascents
2. Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag ridge
3. Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope
4. Proposed 6A first ascent in winter conditions
5. Elevation gain: 2800 m (from the confluence of the Semenovsky and South Inylchek glaciers) Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° (from the saddle between peaks Chapayev and Khan-Tengri to the summit of Khan-Tengri 5800–6995 m)
6. Pitons used: rock — 6 pcs., ice — 4 pcs. Previously used pitons not removed — 12 pcs.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 28 hours and 4 days

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — altitude-technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) — via the western couloir, first ascent
4. Estimated complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference — 2800 m of which:

• wall — 1200 m
• Length — about 6000 m, including rock part — about 1800 m
• Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 125 m

Climbing Report for Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m

via the NE ridge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder, B. Solomatov's route, 5A category CSKA team named after Demchenko: Bryk R.A. — team leader, Volkov A.E., Dikovsky K.

Route Passport

1. Category — high-altitude and technical
2. TIAN-SHAN, 7.9. Tengri-Tag ridge
3. Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, NE ridge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder, (B. Solomatov's route, 1974)
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Route type — combined

Kazakhstan Republican Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society

Report

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m) from the north by a team of climbers in August 1968 B. Studenin, 68

Almaty

1968

Introduction

Passport

1. High-altitude class
2. Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
3. Khan-Tengri peak, via the center of the East Face
4. Assumed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 2000 m, route length — 2420 m Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1340 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 67° (5000–6700 m). Including:

• 80° (80 m)
• 85° (140 m)
• 90° (80 m)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Chapayev, 6371.0 m, via the Southeast ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 2200 m. Section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 810 m. 6th difficulty category — 65 m. Average steepness of the rocky part of the route — 60°, snowy-icy part — 42°.

REPORT ON THE PARTICIPATION OF THE CS DSO “LOKOMOTIV” TEAM IN THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM IN THE 1974 SEASON The composition of the team that actually participated in the championship:

• Manshin Yu.P. — team captain,
• Volkov R.P. — deputy captain,
• Repin V.D.,
• Vodolazhsky V.K.,
• Svitov V.M. The team was supported by a rescue team and a communications group consisting of:
• Marfin V.M.,
• Shmuylovich S.G.,

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.