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Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the peak "Kholodnaya Stena" (5979 m) by the Eastern wall, 6B cat. of difficulty, Yazgulemskiy ridge.
Ascent Passport
I. Technical Difficulty Category. 2. Yazgulsky Ridge, Havraz-dara gorge. 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena", 5979 m via the center of the "mirror" of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1519 m, route length — 1925 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1370 m. 6 category of difficulty — 640 m, 5 category of difficulty — 750 m. Average steepness of the route 73°. Average steepness of the "mirror" 84°, sections 23–48 (5160–5780). 6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateDescription of a challenging climbing route along a crumbling rock wall involving artificial aids and alternating types of terrain.
Route description by sections
Section R0–R1, R2–R4, R4–R5, R6–R9, R9–R28, R28–R81, R81–R86, R86–R88, R88–R89, R89–R40, R40–R41, R41–R42, R42–R48, R43–R44 Very destroyed rock wall. Rock wall, in the middle part - a cornice, is passed with the use of artificial support points (И.Т.О.). Alternation of:
- rock walls
- inner corners
- shelves Passed by free climbing (many loose stones).
Route Description: центру 3 стены
SSummitMateReport on MAI team's ascent to Chiringad peak (5864 m) via the center of the West face, category 6B difficulty level, in Pamir, 2008.
Russian Championship (Technical Climbing Category)
Climbing Report of the MAI Team
on peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall, 6B category, August 5-8, 2008
Moscow, 2008
Team Captain: M. Volkov alpclu@yandex.ru ph. +7-985-233-83-64
Team Coach: V. Lavrinenko lavrinenco2004@mail.ru ph. +7-916-439-03-12
Report preparation: M. Pankov maxtreme@bk.ru ph. +7-910-492-76-05
Climbing Details
№ 4.12.61, peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall (N. Petrov, 1989), 6B
Route Description: В стене
SSummitMate**Ascent Route to Peak 5026 (Vir Peak) via the Eastern Wall (Category 5B)** Description of the climbing route to the summit of peak 5026 (Vir peak) via the eastern wall, category 5B, including path characteristics and recommendations for climbers.
I. Ascent Passport
- Ascent category: Technical
- Ascent area: Shugnan (northwestern spur)
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. 5026 (Vir peak) via the E wall
- Estimated category of difficulty: 5B
- Route characteristics:
- Height difference: 1300 m
- Average steepness: E wall 70°
- Length of sections:
- 3rd category of difficulty – 800 m
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Peak 5190 "Krasny" via the North-Eastern wall, category 6B difficulty, in the Shugnan range of the Western Pamir.
| I. Class of ascent | — technical |
|---|---|
| 2. Region of ascent, ridge | — West. Pamir, Shugnansky Ridge |
| 3. Peak, height, ascent route | — peak 5190, Krasno, northeast |
| 4. Proposed category of difficulty | — 6B |
| 5. Characteristics of the route: | |
| elevation gain | — 1250 m |
| length of sections 5–6 km | — 790 m |
| average steepness | — 75° |
| 6. Pitons hammered: for belay | for creating RPS |
Route Description: ЮВ кф.
SSummitMate### Description of a Technical Ascent of Peak 4900 m via the Shugnan Range Spur in the Pamir Mountains, Category 5A Difficulty Technical ascent details for climbing Peak 4900 m via the rugged Shugnan Range spur, a challenging 5A category climb located in the Pamir Mountains.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class - technical.
- Ascent area - South-Western Pamir, Shugnan Range.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak 4900 m, via the SE counterfort.
- Proposed difficulty category - 5A.
- Route characteristics: height difference - 1050 m, length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 555 m, average steepness - 69°.
- Pitons driven: for belaying: for creating ITO:
- rock - 72 (for belaying), 4 (for creating ITO)
- ice (including into rocks) - 20 (for belaying), 1 (for creating ITO)
Route Description: Ю стене ЮВ кф
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route category 5A on the summit Opasnaya (3150 m) via the South wall of the South-Eastern counterfort in the Eastern Sayan Mountains.
Ascent Passport
- Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Mugovek gorge, section 6.1.
- Opasnaya peak, 3150 m, via the South face of the South-Eastern buttress.
- Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Height difference 500 m, length 778 m, average steepness 55°.
- Pitons hammered in: rock and chock stones 75 pieces.
- Team's travel hours — 18 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group:
Route Description: левому кф. З стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Bronenosets peak (2430 m) via the left counterfort of the western wall, category 4A, with a detailed analysis of sections and passage options.
Ascent Log
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltcy ridge, Dождевое valley, section 6.1.
- Bronenosets peak, 2430 m, via the Left buttress of the Western wall.
- Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Elevation gain 190 m, length 242 m, average slope 55°.
- Pitons hammered: rock and wired 40 pcs.
- Team's walking hours – 9 h.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group:
Route Description: центр.кф. С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of a Category 5B route via the Central Counterfort of the North face of Kupol Peak (2954 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Eastern Sayan.
Climbing Report on the First Ascent
Kupol Peak (2954 m)
Via the Central Counterfort of the North Face. Route category 5B (proposed), first ascent Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1 Team leader: Klepikov A.A. Team member: Afanasyeva A.A. Trainer: Afanasyev 2007
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1.
- Kupol Peak (2954 m), Central counterfort of the North Face.
- Proposed category 5B — first ascent.
- Route type: rock climbing.
- Route height difference: 656 m
Route Description: ЮЗ кф. 3 гребня
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Jadlyk (4533 m) via Shto-West counterfort of the Western ridge, first ascent, category 4 difficulty, in 28 hours of climbing.
I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4