Nadmu Severn. Burzhukla 4338 n. Korocharka r. Boyus Bogos Sevo n. Burevestnik pik Peti r. Vkok Karaugomskoe plato

109. Songuty via the East Face, cat. 4B (Durnov, 1950)

From the Volga River overnight bivouac area, head towards the central couloir that leads to routes 5A and 5Б. (“Attention!” The couloir is not visible from the overnight bivouac area, and for visual reconnaissance, one needs to move to the left part of the upper plateau of Uilpatinsky bottom), move along the right part of the couloir to the rock island, from which turn left onto a ledge leading to a counterfort. 10 m up the несложным ledges of the counterfort to a snowy ridge 10–15 m long. From it, turn left along the ledges and walls under the black streaks forming a zigzag, clearly visible from below, to the next counterfort of the central ridge. Move up the rocks of the counterfort to a snowy saddle, from which a snowy couloir goes left and down. After the saddle, a short wall leads to a large ledge crossing the East Face of Songuty. Along the ledge 150–200 m to the right to a counterfort leading to the 10th tower. Move along the rocks on the left side of the counterfort; in the upper part of the rocks, a 20-meter internal corner leads to a snowy slope (20–30 m), approaching the 10th tower. One can avoid going to the tower and instead move right along a grassy section to the saddle between the 10th tower and the summit. On the saddle, there is a platform for a tent. From the saddle to the summit, it's 80–100 m along the ridge of cat. II–III complexity, with overcoming the “pog” — a smooth 5-meter rock ascent and ridge. On the “nose” of the “pog,” a piton is hammered for passage and belay.

UILPATA

Southwestern ridge Sonnguti pass 110 ㅍ North ridge-slope Northwestern edge Ukhalpatinsky pass 103.12

SOUTH-WEST NORTH RIDGE - SLOPE SONGUTI I NORTH-WEST EDGE EAST BRANCH OF KARAUGOM PLATEAU

5. V. ULARG VIA NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE, 5A cat. diff.

ONIANI PEAK WEST RIDGE ARTSYSHHEVSKOGO PEAK ULARG NORTH EDGE II Ridge I Ridge NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE

Description of the route to the summit of Tsey-Loam via the SW wall (Trikozov's route), 4A category of difficulty 2.9.54 according to KMGV

Trikozov's route on Tsey-Loam peak in the Dzheyrakh district of Ingushetia is an interesting, moderately complex and technical line. In the first ascenders' report, the category of difficulty is indicated as 3A, while in the FAR classifier, it is listed as 4A category of difficulty. The name "via the NW wall" is a typo; the route actually follows the SW wall. The route is more challenging than the route through a series of chimneys on the right part of the SE wall on Zub peak, 4A category of difficulty, but easier than Donskov's route on the left edge of the SW ridge on Koazoy-Loam peak, 4B category of difficulty. The route is not recommended as a first independent 4A climb: it involves pendulum moves, diagonal belays, and artificial climbing techniques (ITC), and requires navigation skills on the approach and the route. Descending via the ascent route is complicated due to numerous diagonal sections. The approach to the route starts along the grassy slopes immediately behind the Kyazi tourist center in the direction of the SW wall of Tsey-Loam peak (photo 1). The jagged peaks are bypassed on the left via grassy ledges. The route's landmark is the couloir running along the SW wall and a massive plug at its beginning (photo 3). Photo 1. Approach from Kyazi tourist center. Internet photograph R0–R1: A 10 m wall of easy climbing, bypassing the plug in the couloir, followed by 600 m along the couloir. Scree, "ram's foreheads," and hard firn at the beginning of May. The simple terrain leads out to the right from the couloir onto the R1 ridge between the wall and the rocky ridge (photo 4). The main couloir continues upwards (photo 5). R1–R2: 60 m upwards of easy climbing.

Since many get lost on the route, I decided to write an addition to the description. The ledge on which "many" get lost, after R6, is misleading due to the description: according to it, the section R6–R7 is 60 m long, but in reality it's no more than 30 m. R6–R8 There's a belay station near a juniper bush, from it go left along the wall, as soon as it ends:

• go 8–10 m
• climb up the grassy ledges to the wall, also about 10 m From this point, on the right, you can see a flake:
• go under it
• 8 m up on it
• then immediately left, or right around the bend On the right, around the bend, there's an inner corner with grassy tufts/ledges, the walls are smooth.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi

Via the South-Eastern ridge, category 1B (approximately) complexity AM LLC "Alpine Camps Management" "ADYL-SU 2022" October 31, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

Mt. Severная Zesho aya akomka b. Uzlovaya Zesho 10 9 8