Ascent Passport

N 582 p. 55 dated January 26, 1988 Complexity category 3A. I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Summit, its height, and ascent route — "Gnom", 3450 m, via South ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, climbing route — p. Kergely, 3750 m, northwestern counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, average steepness of the wall section — 55°, total route — 35°, length of sections: 1—..., 2—100 m, 3—345 m, 4—130 m, 5—...

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent region: North Tien-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Pik Pioner (4031 m), from Pioner pass.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B
5. Height difference: 170 m total route length: 300 m, wall section length: — of which 5 pitches — 0.6 pitches — 0, average steepness of wall section — 40°, average steepness of route — 40°
6. Pitons driven (numbers in denominator — for IT): no data for rock, ice, cams, bolted
7. Number of walking hours/days:
8. Overnight stays: —

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE APPROACH TO THE ROUTE

Leader V. Vasilenko +3, 1978 From the base camp located at the 58th km of the Khorog - Osh highway, we approach the Gaf Glacier along the left (orographically) side of the Nemacdar River. We ascend to the Gaf Pass via its left part. The approach time is 5–6 hours from the base camp. The entire approach path is clearly visible from the 59th km of the Khorog - Osh highway. General view of the peak 5204 m from the East. — route along the S ridge from Gaf Pass (leader V. Vasilenko) — route along the E face (leader I. Orbei) — route along the center of the E face (leader Kh. Kornys). Peak Gif Beginning of the S ridge

Map of the area worked by the 4C 6CO, A6a (3) 3 group, with the designation of ascent routes in 1978, June 28 — August 10. Base camp "Fann Mountains"

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Sary-Aygyr", 3350 m, NE ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 700 m
   • average steepness: 43°
   • length of sections: I–500 m, II–450 m, III–45 m
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Log

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height "Slovakia" 3700 m, 3 ascent route - ridge 4. Expected difficulty category - 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 390 m average steepness - 68° length of sections: II–90 m, III–80 m, IV–230 m, V–80 m 6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT CERTIFICATE №1 Class: ROCK Region: TIEN-SHAN, Ugam ridge (7.II) Peak: SOLIDARNOST Height: 3600 m (according to KTMGV-89) Route and proposed complexity category: via south-west slope 41. Solidarnost 3600 1B cat. diff. (via 3rd slope V. Shadrin, 1998) 1B cat. diff. Height difference: 400 m Length: 700 m Steepness: avg. 40° (max – 65°)

Description of the ascent to the summit "Sypuchaya" (4000 m above sea level) in the Ugam Range

The summit "Sypuchaya" is located in a lateral ridge of the Ugam Range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the southwest of "Sypuchaya" peak, the "Obmanchivaya" peak rises in the ridge. The peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya" are separated by a saddle. Two ridges extend from "Sypuchaya": the "Northwestern" and the southern ones. The northwestern ridge is not of mountaineering significance. There is no glaciation on the southern side of "Sypuchaya"; the northern side was poorly visible due to bad weather. We leave the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake at 5:00 AM and move eastward. The entire path from the intermediate camp to the saddle is the same as for "Obmanchivaya" peak. Upon reaching the saddle, we turn left (in the direction of travel), i.e., to the north. We begin our ascent to the summit first over scree and then over easy rock. During the ascent, we encounter 4 "jandarms" (rock pinnacles) that can be easily bypassed on either the left or the right. Simultaneous protection is used. After 1.5–2 hours, we reach a snowy ridge. We reach the summit in 1 hour of travel along the snowy ridge. The weather began to deteriorate at 11:00 AM; by 12:00 PM, it started snowing. We reached the summit at 1:00 PM. The time taken for the ascent was 8 hours. The summit is in the form of a dome of fine scree. The descent is made via the ascent route. The route corresponds to category 1B difficulty. The total time taken for the ascent and descent was 11 hours. The first ascent was made on May 13, 1962. Group leader: Participants:

• Skuratovich E.M.

Passport

1. Climbing category — rock
2. Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Range
3. Peak "Okhotnichy" — 3099 m via the left buttress of the Western wall, rock
4. Proposed category — 4A
5. Height difference — 550 m, length — 2225 m Length of sections:

• 5th category difficulty — 50 m
• 4th category difficulty — 260 m Average steepness of main sections 60°, including 5th category difficulty — 75°

UILPATA

Southwestern ridge Sonnguti pass 110 ㅍ North ridge-slope Northwestern edge Ukhalpatinsky pass 103.12