Traverse of the Kishkine-Tau and Suleiman-Stalsky peaks from the Jamboul glacier to the Severtsev glacier, 3B category of difficulty (fig. 13). From the bivouac on the Shokalsky glacier descend to the glacier tongue. Ascend along the tongue to the middle moraine (black), and along it - to its end. Then:

• Descent to the right,
• Then move along the middle of the glacier, keeping direction to the Kishkine-Tau peak. After some time, you will reach a strip of black stones, running from north to south. Follow along the stones. To the right are red taluses descending from the slab-like ridge running from the Jamboul peak. Do not approach this ridge: there are large crevasses! To the left is the end of the glacier descending from behind the Chokon Valikhonov peak.

1. Ascent from Kopr glacier via the southern ridge.
2. Ascent from the North-West. Ascent from the Kopr glacier via the southern ridge, route category 3B (fig. 45). The Kopr peak is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, between the Metallurg peak and the Talgar massif, to the North-East of the latter. The path to the peak from the Talgar mountaineering camp:

• Up the Middle Talgar gorge along the trail.
• From the signpost turn left towards the Kopr glacier.
• Then go along the grassy slopes, then along the ancient moraines: first along the terminal ones, then along the right (orographic) lateral ones.
• The trail is clearly visible.
• Overnight stay at Rakhimov bivouac.

Ascent to the peak Kopr from the north-west, route 4б difficulty category (Fig. 45 а) From the Talgar alpine camp:

• up the trail going past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge;
• further along the trail to the Ozerny glacier;
• along the right lateral moraine;
• then along the glacier to the foot of the Kopr peak. Here, on the moraine, is the overnight stay. From the camp to the overnight stay is 3–3.5 hours walk. The route begins with an ascent up a snowy slope with a steepness of 30° and goes up to a large hollow. In the second half of summer, the glacier is cleared of snow, and crevices are open. From the overnight stay to the hollow is 4 hours walk. Movement is with alternate belay through ice screws. Sometimes the use of crampons is required. From the hollow to a rocky island having a characteristic triangular shape. The rocks are not difficult. In the upper part of the rocks is the 1st control cairn. The route further goes sharply to the right, crossing the ice slope, steepness up to 50°, length up to 80 m. Belay is with pitons. Step cutting is required. Exit to broken rocks. This section begins with a wall, which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Move with alternate belay. At the top is the 2nd control cairn. Along broken rocks to the ice slope. Further - on crampons along the ice "sabre". Belay with pitons (5 pitons). Sticking to the rocks, move up to the right onto the ridge.

Location, Approach Route, and Ascent History

The peak named after the youth newspaper "Leninskaya Smena" is located in the central ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. Its western ridge descends to the well-known Ozerny pass, through which a tourist path leads to the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul (see the map of the Leninskaya Smena peak area). From Almaty Lake, the approach to the peak is made along a well-trodden path up the gorge, along the Ozerny River, which flows into the lake. The time it takes to approach from the lake to the confluence of the South-Eastern River and Ozerny River is about 4 hours. Further, the path goes to Ozerny pass along both the right and left banks of the Ozerny River:

• The approach to the peak is more convenient along the right (orographic) bank.
• The descent is along the left (orographic) bank. From the confluence of the rivers to the tongue of the glacier, flowing west from the northern ridge of the Leninskaya Smena peak, it takes another 1.5–2 hours. The most acceptable and convenient path to the summit is the ridge that branches off from the northern ridge and merges with it not far from the summit (see the map). It was along this ridge that the first ascenders took the path in 1956 (a group of climbers from the Kazakh club led by Kucherenko G.). A group of climbers from the Institute of Nuclear Physics of the Kazakh SSR Academy of Sciences, led by Saprykin V.D., climbed the same route on September 2, 1956, and this description was compiled based on that ascent.

Route Description

The Lokomotiv peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur - the Kumbel ridge. To complete the ascent via this route, follow these steps:

• Reach the Tuyuk-Su glacier
• Move along the left lateral moraine and cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier flowing into it
• Follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks Ascend via a couloir covered with talus to the ridge north of the rocky tower, which can be bypassed from the west along a steep 200-meter ice slope. Steep sections require:
• Step cutting
• Mass belaying Continue along steep snow-ice sections of the ridge, with cornices in some areas (be cautious!), then along the ridge to the summit, which consists of huge rocky blocks with a steep drop to the northeast. The ascent to the summit is from the southwest; the cairn is located on a large flat boulder.

North­ern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Manshuk Mametova via the North Face

25 category of difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North­ern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Manshuk Mametova via the north face.
3. Proposed: 2B cat. diff.
4. Character of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 350 m

Ascent to the summit Metallurg via the North-West ridge, route 4Б cat. diff. (Fig. 49). The summit Metallurg is located in the main ridge of the Zailiyskiy Alatau, to the North-East of the Talgar massif. The approach path to the summit from the alpinist camp "Talgar" starts along the trail past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge and goes to the terminal moraine of the Ozerny glacier. Cross the terminal moraine and exit to the right (orographically) lateral moraine of the glacier, then:

• go along the lateral moraine,
• continue moving along the glacier. In 5-6 hours, the foot of the couloir is reached, leading to the saddle of the North-West ridge of the summit Metallurg. Here, on the moraine of the Ozerny glacier, it is possible to make the first overnight stay. There is water. The ascent to the saddle, taking an hour and a half, begins the route. On the saddle is the 1st control point. From the saddle, a small descent and going around the first gendarme along the firn slope with a steepness of up to 45°, after which the ascent begins along the first rocky wall. Height Fig. 49

walls up to 50 m. Piton insurance. After the wall, when exiting to the ridge, there is a place for the second overnight stay and the 2nd control tour. Further, bypassing a small gendarme on its right side. Then along a snowy-ice section to a rocky wall (3rd tour), which is overcome head-on, with traversing to the left. Then along a slope with a steepness of up to 60–65°, covered with flow ice, exit to a gentle snowy site and from it move to a rocky wall, which is traversed to the left. After the wall, approach a small steep couloir covered with flow ice. Movement along the couloir:

• starts on the right upwards,
• then deviates to the left side. After exiting the couloir - descent into a twenty-meter crevice, behind it exit to a steep ice section. After this section - ascent upwards along a steep icy scree. Behind the scree - approach to a rocky monolithic wall. Start climbing it with a traverse to the left. Exit to a narrow chute, along which climb 40 m. Piton insurance. In the upper part, when exiting, apply a "live" ladder. Caution: rocks are heavily destroyed.

Youthful 2B cat. diff. via North slope

Description of the route. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto the glacier and move towards the rock outcrop on the northern slope of the peak. Move along the northern slope to the right (over ice) of the rock outcrop, in teams, wearing crampons. Depending on the condition of the slope, one can move simultaneously or with alternating belays. The first 150–200 m are overcome directly upwards, here the slope steepness is 25–30°, then it increases to 50°, so piton belays are used (2–3 pitons). Then a short traverse to the right, along small crevices. After 50–60 m, ascend a small flattened area, where many crevices up to 1 m wide are encountered. At the end of the section, near a driven ice piton, there is a control cairn. From here:

Route Description

From the Myrdı bivouac, ascend the grassy slopes towards the lower part of the eastern ridge of Pyramida. Then turn right onto the large, wide slopes cut by a chain of couloirs and scree, rising towards the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier. Reach the glacier via the large, long moraine. Continue straight up towards the clearly visible, rightmost narrow saddle on the Pyramida ridge. The ridge connects to the summit of Ak-bashi to the right. The ascent to the saddle follows a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then a narrow 100-meter couloir (ice in the second half of summer). From the saddle, descend 50 m to the other side and follow a wide, 400-meter scree shelf that wraps around the base of Pyramida from the west, approaching a large rocky outcrop. Ascend the outcrop upwards and to the left, then move onto inclined shelves above a white quartz vein (protection!). Then bypass the first rocky prominence and move towards the wedge-shaped rock protruding from the second rocky prominence on the ridge. Ascend to the wedge-shaped rock via broken rocks, then follow the inner angle - a couloir (water!) - to reach the upper scree slopes above the wall via a small R6 rock wall. Follow the scree slopes and small ridges to reach the main ridge of the summit at a large, horizontally lying slab. From here, move left and down into a small depression, then ascend to the summit via yellow rocks. 6 hours from the bivouac. Descent from the summit follows the "Pyramida via the Southeast Ridge" route.

• Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 5 am.
• On the eve of the ascent day, mark the path to the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier.