Activity Feed
Route Description: центру С склона
Ascent via the direttissima of the North face of Peak V. Shumilov (3555 m) in the South Chuya ridge of Altai with a difficulty category of 3A.
peak V. Shumilov via the direct line of the North face 3A cat. sl., lc Badanov P.A. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge 1.3
Passport
- Class: ice and snow.
- Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley, 1.3
- Peak V. Shumilov via the center of the North face. Coordinates: (49°44.068′ N, 87°58.504′ E, height 3555 according to the navigator)
- Proposed — 3A cat. sl., first ascent.
- Elevation difference: 500 m (between the summit and intermediate camp: 744 m); length — 600 m. Average steepness of the route — 25–35 degrees.
- Pitons used on the route: ice screws — 20.
- Team's travel hours: 3 h 20 min from the glacier to the summit; 5 h from glacier to glacier; 7 h 30 min from advanced base camp to advanced base camp (49°44.886′ N, 87°59.368′ E, height 2811 according to the navigator).
Route Description: ледовому галстуку С стены
Ascent to the summit of Munhuzhak (3577 m) via the "tie" glacier from the northern side, difficulty category 4B.
V. MUNKHU ZHIK (3577) via N glacier "tie" from N col - 4B cat. diff.
sec. R0–R1: The route starts under the ice "tie", left of the center; a firn slope gradually gains steepness. The passage is made in crampons; in the upper part, the firn disappears.
sec. R1–R2: The steepness increases; the passage is made in crampons on front points with the help of ice axes.
approx. 45° E
12
Route Description: 4-му кф. В стены
Description of the ascent route to Mt. Maly Vudyavrchorr (Khibiny Mountains) via the 4th buttress of the Eastern wall, difficulty category 3B.
Ascent Log
- Ascent category — combined
- Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains
- Peak, its height, and route — Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; via the 4th counterfort of the wall of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; 1068 m.
- Estimated difficulty category — 3B category
- Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Walls: Length of sections, category: 2 — 400 m
Route Description: «Отколу» В стены
Description of a combined 3A category route to the peak "Otkol" of the Takhtarumchorr ridge in the Khibiny Mountains.
Ascent Log
- Ascent type — combined.
- Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains.
- Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, "Otkol" on Takhtarvumchorr ridge via the E wall; 1143.5 m.
- Anticipated difficulty category — 3A cat. diff.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 850 m. Length of sections by cat. diff.:
- II — 500 m
- III — 250 m
Route Description: правой части баст. Ю стены
Ascent certificate for Bashil peak (4257 m) via the South slope, category of difficulty 5B, climbed by the team led by Merlis V.P., Master of Sports of International Class.
Appendix I
Ascent Record
I. Ascent class — rock: 2. Ascent region — Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Chipperazau pass to Orotokara peak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Bashil peak, 4257 m, 4800 m via the south face. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m 6B pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. final 69, 18 bolted, 3 ice. 7. Number of walking hours — 26 (excluding descent). 8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 2, semi-reclining, in a tent. 9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants and their qualification: Merlis Viktor Petrovich — MSMK, leader
Route Description: СВ ребру
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Kalper via the North-Eastern ridge, category 5A difficulty, climbed by a group of mountaineers in 1979.
PASSPORT
Ascent to peak Kalper via the Northeast Edge.
- Category of ascent: Combined
- Area of ascent: Tsey, Kalper ridge
- Summit: Kalper, 3800 m, route via Northeast Edge
- Estimated category difficulty: 5A–4B
- Route characteristics: height difference –1100 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty –250 m, average steepness – 45°
- Pitons used: for belay – 23, for artificial holds – 8, including rock pitons – 29, ice screws – 2.
- Duration: 20 hours
- Number of bivouacs: 2, with available tent sites.
Route Description: с ЮЗ по кулуару З гребня
Report on the ascent of Tepli Glavnaya peak (4431 m) via the southwest slope, featuring a detailed description of the route and its characteristics.
Alpinist Sports Club "KASKAD"
Report
On the ascent to Tepli Glavnaya peak 4431 m from the Southwest by the couloir of the Western ridge, presumably 3B cat. diff. Variant of the route by A. ZyuziN. Tepli Glavnaya by the North-West ridge, 3B cat. diff., 1938, number in the classifier 2.8.85. Kirkitadze D.A. Dyakonov B.V.
Central Caucasus, October 2013
Climbing participants
- Leader: Kirkitadze David Amiranovich, II sports category, Kambiileevskoe village. Address: Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Kambiileevskoe village, Yuri Kuchiev St., 62. Phone: +7 961 822-28-22.
- Participant: Dyakonov Boris Valerievich, II sports category, Beslan.
Route Description: скальным островам С стены 3 гребня
The ascent to the summit of Ullu-tau Main via the north wall, category 5B ice-snow, was made by a team of climbers in February 1994.
- Winter climb.
- Central Caucasus, Adyr-su valley.
- Ullu-tau Main peak summit to the right of the rocky islands on the northern wall (Maltsev's variant).
- Snow and ice climb, complexity category 5B.
- Height difference — 870 m, length — 1200 m, with category complexity — 860 m. Average steepness — 47°, with category complexity — 56°.
- Pitons used: Ice screws (ice pitons) 120 0
- Team's climbing hours — 11.5 hours (+ 5 hours of processing)
- Overnight stays: at the initial bivouac.
Route Description: левой части С склона
Description of the ascent route to Peak Germogenova via the northern slope, category 3A difficulty, with a detailed indication of the path, terrain, and equipment used.
I. Climbing category - technical 2. North spur of the Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak Germogenova via the left part of the N wall 4. Proposed category: 3A 5. Route description: snow-ice, height difference (from the saddle) - 423 m, average steepness of the wall section - 46° 6. Number of protection points - 36 (ice screws) 7. Total climbing time - 6 hours 8. Team leader: Laptev Alexander Leonidovich, Candidate Master of Sports Team members:
- Ivanov G.A., Candidate Master of Sports
Route Description: С склону
Ascent to Germogenov peak via the North face, 4A category of difficulty, height difference 513 m, made in 1986 by a group led by Kharianyk I.V.
Passport
I. Ice and snow class. 2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. p. Germogenova, 3993 m, according to S V Caucasus 4. Proposed category: 4A. 5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 4th category difficulty — 155 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. 6. Number of ice screws used for belay — 76. 7. Moving time — 6 hours. 8. Without overnight stays.