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Ascent via the direttissima of the North face of Peak V. Shumilov (3555 m) in the South Chuya ridge of Altai with a difficulty category of 3A.

peak V. Shumilov via the direct line of the North face 3A cat. sl., lc Badanov P.A. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge 1.3

Passport

  1. Class: ice and snow.
  2. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley, 1.3
  3. Peak V. Shumilov via the center of the North face. Coordinates: (49°44.068′ N, 87°58.504′ E, height 3555 according to the navigator)
  4. Proposed — 3A cat. sl., first ascent.
  5. Elevation difference: 500 m (between the summit and intermediate camp: 744 m); length — 600 m. Average steepness of the route — 25–35 degrees.
  6. Pitons used on the route: ice screws — 20.
  7. Team's travel hours: 3 h 20 min from the glacier to the summit; 5 h from glacier to glacier; 7 h 30 min from advanced base camp to advanced base camp (49°44.886′ N, 87°59.368′ E, height 2811 according to the navigator).
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Ascent to the summit of Munhuzhak (3577 m) via the "tie" glacier from the northern side, difficulty category 4B.

V. MUNKHU ZHIK (3577) via N glacier "tie" from N col - 4B cat. diff. sec. R0–R1: The route starts under the ice "tie", left of the center; a firn slope gradually gains steepness. The passage is made in crampons; in the upper part, the firn disappears. sec. R1–R2: The steepness increases; the passage is made in crampons on front points with the help of ice axes. approx. 45° E 12

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Description of the ascent route to Mt. Maly Vudyavrchorr (Khibiny Mountains) via the 4th buttress of the Eastern wall, difficulty category 3B.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent category — combined
  2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains
  3. Peak, its height, and route — Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; via the 4th counterfort of the wall of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; 1068 m.
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B category
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Walls: Length of sections, category: 2 — 400 m
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Description of a combined 3A category route to the peak "Otkol" of the Takhtarumchorr ridge in the Khibiny Mountains.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent type — combined.
  2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains.
  3. Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, "Otkol" on Takhtarvumchorr ridge via the E wall; 1143.5 m.
  4. Anticipated difficulty category — 3A cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 850 m. Length of sections by cat. diff.:
  • II — 500 m
  • III — 250 m
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Ascent certificate for Bashil peak (4257 m) via the South slope, category of difficulty 5B, climbed by the team led by Merlis V.P., Master of Sports of International Class.

Appendix I

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class — rock: 2. Ascent region — Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Chipperazau pass to Orotokara peak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Bashil peak, 4257 m, 4800 m via the south face. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m 6B pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. final 69, 18 bolted, 3 ice. 7. Number of walking hours — 26 (excluding descent). 8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 2, semi-reclining, in a tent. 9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants and their qualification: Merlis Viktor Petrovich — MSMK, leader

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Kalper via the North-Eastern ridge, category 5A difficulty, climbed by a group of mountaineers in 1979.

PASSPORT

Ascent to peak Kalper via the Northeast Edge.

  1. Category of ascent: Combined
  2. Area of ascent: Tsey, Kalper ridge
  3. Summit: Kalper, 3800 m, route via Northeast Edge
  4. Estimated category difficulty: 5A–4B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference –1100 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty –250 m, average steepness – 45°
  6. Pitons used: for belay – 23, for artificial holds – 8, including rock pitons – 29, ice screws – 2.
  7. Duration: 20 hours
  8. Number of bivouacs: 2, with available tent sites.
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Report on the ascent of Tepli Glavnaya peak (4431 m) via the southwest slope, featuring a detailed description of the route and its characteristics.

Alpinist Sports Club "KASKAD"

Report

On the ascent to Tepli Glavnaya peak 4431 m from the Southwest by the couloir of the Western ridge, presumably 3B cat. diff. Variant of the route by A. ZyuziN. Tepli Glavnaya by the North-West ridge, 3B cat. diff., 1938, number in the classifier 2.8.85. Kirkitadze D.A. Dyakonov B.V.

Central Caucasus, October 2013

Climbing participants

  1. Leader: Kirkitadze David Amiranovich, II sports category, Kambiileevskoe village. Address: Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Kambiileevskoe village, Yuri Kuchiev St., 62. Phone: +7 961 822-28-22.
  2. Participant: Dyakonov Boris Valerievich, II sports category, Beslan.
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The ascent to the summit of Ullu-tau Main via the north wall, category 5B ice-snow, was made by a team of climbers in February 1994.

  1. Winter climb.
  2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-su valley.
  3. Ullu-tau Main peak summit to the right of the rocky islands on the northern wall (Maltsev's variant).
  4. Snow and ice climb, complexity category 5B.
  5. Height difference — 870 m, length — 1200 m, with category complexity — 860 m. Average steepness — 47°, with category complexity — 56°.
  6. Pitons used: Ice screws (ice pitons) 120 0
  7. Team's climbing hours — 11.5 hours (+ 5 hours of processing)
  8. Overnight stays: at the initial bivouac.
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Description of the ascent route to Peak Germogenova via the northern slope, category 3A difficulty, with a detailed indication of the path, terrain, and equipment used.

I. Climbing category - technical 2. North spur of the Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak Germogenova via the left part of the N wall 4. Proposed category: 3A 5. Route description: snow-ice, height difference (from the saddle) - 423 m, average steepness of the wall section - 46° 6. Number of protection points - 36 (ice screws) 7. Total climbing time - 6 hours 8. Team leader: Laptev Alexander Leonidovich, Candidate Master of Sports Team members:

  • Ivanov G.A., Candidate Master of Sports
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Ascent to Germogenov peak via the North face, 4A category of difficulty, height difference 513 m, made in 1986 by a group led by Kharianyk I.V.

Passport

I. Ice and snow class. 2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. p. Germogenova, 3993 m, according to S V Caucasus 4. Proposed category: 4A. 5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 4th category difficulty — 155 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. 6. Number of ice screws used for belay — 76. 7. Moving time — 6 hours. 8. Without overnight stays.

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