Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technically challenging.
2. Ascent area: Eastern Sayan, Tunka Alps, Zuun-Khandagai gorge.
3. Dinosaur Peak: shoulder of the southwest ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m, average steepness: 45°, length of sections: R0–R1 — 2.5 km. R1–R2 — 500 m. R2–R3 — 90 m. R3–R4 — 450 m.

Irkutsk, 2011

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Zuun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table: 6.1.
2. Domashnaya peak 2350 m (peak coordinates: 51°55′32.55″ N 102°13′4.44″ E), via the East Face
3. Route difficulty category: proposed 5A category, first ascent
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: 650 m Route length: 1200 m Length of sections:

34

Geographic and Climbing Characteristics of the Area

The Zuun-Khandagai valley is located 15 km from the Arshan resort village. There is a good trail almost halfway through the valley. The peaks in this area have been explored by climbers for a long time, and the Classification table currently includes routes to:

• Mt. SOAN - 4B and 3B
• Mt. Dinosaur - 4A
• Khandagai Needles - 4B The first ascent to the left peak of Khandagai Needles is related to ridge routes. This route is distinguished by its logic and complexity, as it runs along the main watershed ridge of the Tunkin Mountains, characterized by sharp alpine forms (narrow jagged ridges, abundant snow, strong winds, etc.). Winter climbing conditions persist until mid-May. Protocol 4209 dated February 15, 1977.

Geographic location, sporting characteristics, and history of the Zuun-Khandagai valley exploration

The Zuun-Khandagai valley is located in the middle part of the Tunka Alps in the Eastern Sayan. The peak Igly Khandagaya is situated on the watershed ridge of the Tunka Alps and closes the Zuun-Khandagai valley. Although the height of the peaks in the area does not exceed 3000 m, its development is significantly hindered by complex climatic conditions and alpine landforms. In 1969, the valley was explored by an expedition of the USSR Climbing Federation led by V. Abalakov. In the same summer, a group of climbers from Irkutsk led by V. Belousov made the first ascent of the southern wall of the peak SOAN, and the route was classified as 4B category in summer conditions. A route along the southeastern ridge to the same peak was also classified as 2B category. It is worth noting that winter conditions in the Eastern Sayan often last until the end of May, when prolonged snowstorms and frosts unexpectedly deter climbers. By the end of summer, the snow cover almost completely disappears. The area has more than ten peaks of interest to climbers, and only one peak, SOAN, currently has classified routes. The traverse of Igly Khandagaya is the second attempt to classify the peaks in this interesting and promising area.

Description of the traverse

April 27. Sections R0–R1, R1–R2.

EASTERN SAYANS IRKUTSK peak (2742 m) via the south ridge, cat. 3B difficulty (year-round)

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION

The Irkutsk peak is situated in the main ridge of the Tunkinskiye Belki range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. It is located at the head of the Pravaya Zun-Khandagai River gorge.

TRANSPORTATION AND APPROACH TO THE BASE CAMP

From Irkutsk city, take a bus or drive to Arshan resort — 218 km. From Arshan resort, head west along the main ridge through Tagarkhay village by car or on foot — 12 km. Continue on foot along the trail on the right side (as you go) of the Zun-Khandagai River gorge until the fork of the left and right Zun-Khandagai rivers — 9 km. The base camp is located at the fork. The tree line is at this elevation, and there is an abundance of firewood. Time breakdown:

• Irkutsk–Arshan — 7 hours by bus

Photo 2. Third rope.

The leader on the section R11–R12, 5 m from the belay station. Passing the crack — chimney, difficult climbing, smoothed rocks, steepness 65°. The photo is taken from the belay station at R9.

Photo 3. Fourth rope.

The leader at point R15. Passed:

• a vertical wall
• then 20 m internal corner. The photo is taken from the belay station at R12.

Photo 4. Fifth rope.

Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the Moygota gorge

The Moygota gorge is located in the middle part of the main watershed of the Tunkin Goltsy in the Eastern Sayan. The Moygota peak closes the Moygota gorge and is located in the main watershed ridge. The heights of the peaks in the Moygota gorge do not exceed 3000 m. The alpine relief of the area with jagged rocky ridges makes it possible to classify a number of interesting sporting routes in this gorge. There are already classified routes to:

• Moygota peak via the southern ridge – 3A;
• Flibustier peak – 3B and 1B;
• Per'ya peak – 2B. The passage of these routes is often complicated by a significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and mostly melts only by the end of May or June. Approaching with a load to the base camp – on the edge of the forest, from the Tunkinskaya valley, from the road leading from the village of Tagarhay – takes just under two walking days.

Brief Geographical Description of the Area

The peak Moygota is located in the main ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountain range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching 200 km in a latitudinal direction. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym gorge. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km - from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west - the ridge has many peaks of great interest to climbers.

• The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1800 m, and on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m.
• The snow cover almost completely melts by the end of summer.
• Glaciation is found only in the western part of the ridge. Moygota peak has an elevation of about 2883 m above sea level. The nearest settlements - Arshan and Tagarhay - are 25–30 km away. Access is via a dirt road to the Moygota gorge, then a 4-hour ascent up the gorge to the base camp at the forest boundary. From the base camp at the forest boundary:
• 2 hours up the gorge to the first lake at the fork in the gorge.
• The ridge dividing the upper reaches of the gorge is the southern ridge to Mt. Moygota.

Passport

1. Class of ascent
2. Region of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference average steepness
6. Pitons hammered for belay
7. Number of travel hours
8. Overnights

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m