Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: 10-3 Pamir, North Shugnanskij Ridge.
3. Peak, height, ascent route: P. 5204 via the left edge of the northern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation difference: 1050 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m; average steepness — 70°.
6. Number of pitons:

Ascent Passport

1. Class — rock.
2. Area — Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Munku Sardyk, 3491 m, via the center of the North slope.
4. Proposed category — 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route character — ice and snow.
6. Height difference 500 m. Length 800 m. Average steepness 40°.
7. Ice pitons driven — 6 pieces.
8. Number of travel hours 4 hours.
9. No overnight stays.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Pik Lyubvi 2121 m via waterfall ice on the right stream of the SW ridge
3. Proposed 2B category of difficulty in winter, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined. Elevation gain: 1111 m (GPS); Average slope of the entire route: 32°; Total route length: 2100 m; VI category of difficulty: 0 m; V category of difficulty: 0 m;

II. Ascent Record of Pograni­chnik Zabaykalya Peak, 3601.7 m, via the Southern Slope.

1. Al­tai, Chi­kha­chov Ridge, section 1.7.
2. Pograni­chnik Zabaykalya Peak, 3601.7 m, via the Southern Slope.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty. First ascent.
4. The route is of snow and ice character.
5. Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain 500 m
• Length 1000 m
• Average slope angle 25°

6. Pitons used: ice screws — 1,

Akkum (4098 m)

Traverse from the northeast to the southwest — category 2A (fig. 1)

The Akkum peak, located in the cirque of the Levyy Kasckelen glacier, is a dome-shaped elevation with groups of rocks in a large snowy ridge that approaches it from the northeast. The northern slopes of the ridge are the main area of glacier nourishment. Fig. 1. The ascent to the summit begins along a branch from the main ridge, as if cutting into the Levyy Kasckelei glacier. From the glacier, ascend the snowy slope of medium steepness along the branch to its junction with the main ridge. The junction is crowned with a small dome covered with small scree. From the dome, continue moving along the snowy-ice ridge leading to the summit. Along the entire length of the ridge, huge snow cornices hang over the southern side. Therefore, it is necessary to move along it with careful insurance and a constant deviation to the right side. In some places, on steep sections, there are ice outcrops, requiring the cutting of steps. Two gendarmes are encountered. The first one is bypassed from the north along a steep icy slope, which is covered with snow at the beginning of the season. If there is ice, insurance is provided through ice screws. The slope leads to rocks, where the bypass is made. After the gendarme, it is advisable to make a traverse of the slope to a small saddle, behind which the second gendarme rises, easily bypassed from the south. Further:

• several steep ascents, where cutting steps is required again. Before the summit, it is necessary to take a left turn, exit onto a narrow snowy ridge, and along it — to the summit.

Route Description

Peak Aristova, named after one of the first Soviet climbers — Oleg Aristov, — is a rocky tooth and towers rising above the lateral ridge, which branches off from the Malo-Almatinsky spur at the location of the Karlytau peak. From there, the ridge stretches east-southeast for about 4 km, dividing the lateral valleys of the glaciers:

• Aristova
• Byrdzhiga. The initial bivouac is on the Aristova glacier plateau. The exit to the route should be no later than four hours, on a slope with a steepness of 55–60°. The ascent goes straight, a little south of a small group of rocks descending from the summit ridge. Deep snow cover:
• Creates convenience for ascending on beaten steps with insurance through an ice axe.
• Is avalanche-prone.

Traverse of the peaks Bogatyr - Kolesnik, 3B cat. route The beginning of the route to the North summit of Bogatyr is given in the previous description. Descent from the North summit of Bogatyr in the southern direction along the icy slope with a steepness of up to 60°, with two drops, bypassing the first gendarme on the left. The next two gendarmes are overcome head-on with alternating belay. Loss of height is up to 200 m.

Fig. 53

Traverse of the Dinamovets - Dzhamalaktau peaks, 3A category of difficulty route (see fig. 18). The route to the Dinamovets peak is described in the section on ascending the Dinamovets peak from the southwest. From the Dinamovets peak, descend along the northern ridge, bypassing the subpeak on the left. Further, along a 250 m long snow-ice slope. In the lower part, the slope steepness is 50-55°. This section is prone to avalanches and ends with a sharp ridge with steep slope drops. Traverse this ridge. In the middle part of the ridge, there is a gendarme. Cornices are present. Ascend and descend the gendarme via the frozen rocks. Further, a rocky ridge with gendarmes is traversed; the first one is bypassed, while the second one is taken head-on via a ledge with a deviation to the right. Exit onto a snow area. Traverse a snowy ridge, bypassing a gendarme via a ledge on the right. Transition from the ledge to the slope, bypassing the outer corner, is challenging. The next gendarme is bypassed on the right. Exit onto the Tumanny pass. Overnight stay is possible here. The ascent to Dzhamalaktau begins with a small snowy couloir leading to a snowy saddle. Then, traverse a destroyed rocky ridge. Encountered gendarmes are bypassed on the left; the last one is taken head-on via an inner corner. Exit onto the summit via a couloir with snow and talus. Descend from the summit towards the Solnechny pass via destroyed rocks, then via a couloir with regelation ice, up to 100 m long. From the couloir, exit onto a ridge with a gendarme, which is taken on the left. Further:

• Descend along a snow-ice slope to easy rocks
• Traverse a snow-ice couloir
• Move along easy rocks to the Solnechny pass saddle. From the Solnechny pass, descend along snow and talus to the Solnechny glacier. Traverse the left side to the prospectors' hut, and from it, follow the trail to the camp. The entire traverse takes up to 13 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

но­сти 30–35 м straight up. Да­лее 80 м вверх по кру­тым ска­лам сред­ней труд­но­сти Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра and along a 20-meter vertical difficult chimney to ascend to a slanting shelf. Along the shelf, traverse under the wall to the right to a vertical cleft. Up a difficult 20-meter cleft in the wall (the key point of the route) to ascend to a slanting shelf. From the shelf, along icy rocks 25 m up to a rocky site on the Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра. From the site, 250–300 m up and to the right along a snowy ridge, then along the slope. Then, traverse up and to the right through an icy-snowy couloir and move to the right onto rocky shelves. From the shelves, 1215 m:

• up and to the right along moderately difficult, разру­шен­ным ска­лам,