The ascent to the peak "Mirny" begins with the ascent to the "Mirny" pass, located south of the peak. The ascent to the pass is not difficult and is done via a couloir covered with large and medium talus (see photo). The ascent takes 35–45 minutes. At the pass, you can leave your ice axes and, if there is no snow on the rocks, it's better to change into climbing shoes. The summit ridge drops to the pass with a wall 120–125 m high and a slope of 65–70°. The rocks are of medium difficulty and difficult. At the beginning of the ascent:

• Ascend directly upwards on rocks of medium difficulty for 5 m;
• Traverse the wall along a rock ledge to the right for 10 m (2 pitons are hammered in for belay);
• The ledge leads to the foot of a 25 m high wall. The ascent up the wall directly leads to a wide platform. Belay is through pitons (4 pitons are hammered in).

Mi­lac­ty­ro­sa

Route description.

Section	Cat. difficulty	Steepness	Length
R0–R1	1A	15–25°	3500 m
R1–R2	1B	35–40°	300 m
R2–R3	1B	20–30°	700 m
R0–R1 — the route starts from the Tesz Tor gorge, ascending from the 3350 m campsite via grassy terraces turning into a stony couloir that leads to the glacier.
R1–R2 — scree slope 35–40°. R2–R3 — ridge. Descent is done via the ascent route.

Map - diagram of the climbing area. C S . St. Catherine 4244 m Tesztor campsite 3350 m. p. Adygene 4393 m. p. Elektro

Description

of the first ascent route to "Peak 4230 m" (Peak Soviet Militia) via the western ridge from the Cholok Pass with an ascent to the pass from the north via the eponymous glacier. Approximately category 2B difficulty level I. OROGRAPHY OF THE REGION. "Peak 4650" is located in the Alamedin spur of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too. This spur begins from the watershed ridge north of the Alamedin Pass. In the area of Peak 4650, this spur branches out, forming:

• a western branch running along the Alamedin valley;
• an eastern branch running along the Issyk-Ata river valley. In the formed fork of the ridge lies one of the largest glaciers of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too — Kashka-su, providing the main water supply to the Porus river. Peak 4230 m is located in the western branch of the Alamedin spur and is clearly visible from the city of Frunze. The northwestern slopes of the peak, together with the adjacent unnamed peaks of the western branch of the Alamedin spur, form the catchment area of the small Cholok glacier, which was not marked on the "Orographic scheme of the highlands of the northern slopes of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too" compiled by B.R. Marechek in 1952. The eastern slopes of "Peak 4230 m" drop off with sheer cliffs to the Kashka-su glacier. However, these walls are short and are not of sporting interest.

Ascent Passport

on p. 4 I 07 m. First Ascent. I. Climbing category — first ascent 2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area 3. Summit p. 4 I 07 m. via E. counterfort, route character — rock 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 570 m, length of sections 2–3 cat. diff. — 145 m, average steepness — 47° 6. Pitons driven: rock — 8, ice — 0 7. Number of walking hours — 8 h 8. Number of overnight stays — none 9. Leader — Getman I.S. MS Participants:

• Kuznetsova T.A. P sport.

Passport.

1. Class: technical.
2. Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau.
3. Peak Gornykh Voditeley (4730 m) via NW ridge.
4. Proposed category: 2B, combined.
5. Height difference: 500 m, length: 1500 m. Average steepness of the rocky part is 45°, snow and ice part is 30°.
6. Pitons: rock - 0, ice - 0, chockstones - 2.
7. Climbing time: 4 hours.
8. Overnight stays: none.
9. Leader: Boyko V.V., Master of Sports.

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To the peak Novy (Novey) 4798 m. Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too (41° 5′43.84″ N, 77°31′32.83″ E)

via the northern ridge "Masterpiece" First ascent Presumably 2B category of complexity Grigoryev D.R. + 6

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader – Grigoryev Dmitry Rurikovich, 1st sports category. Coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Address: 115193, Moscow, 6-y Kozhukhovskaya st., 18, bld. 1, apt. 19. rurikovichd@gmail.com, +7 903 145 88 61
2. Golovchenko Dmitry Nikolaevich, Candidate Master of Sports. Coach: Kuznetsova E.V.
3. Nilov Sergey Alekseevich, Master of Sports. Coach: Kuznetsova E.V.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class — High-altitude

2. Ascent Area — Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge
3. Ascent Route — Peak Pobeda Main (7439 m) via 3rd category route, through Peak Pobeda West, from Glacier Zvezdochka
4. Complexity Category — 5B–6A, combined
5. Route Characteristics: height difference — 3240 m; of which wall section — 980 m; total route length — 8650 m; wall section length — 1450 m;

Вер­ши­на Че­гет-Тау

ET-TAV-UA­HA

00 м

1. вер­ши­на 4100 м becomes Peak Cheget-Tau