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Description

of the first ascent route to "Peak 4230 m" (Peak Soviet Militia) via the western ridge from the Cholok Pass with an ascent to the pass from the north via the eponymous glacier.

Approximately category 2B difficulty level I. OROGRAPHY OF THE REGION. "Peak 4650" is located in the Alamedin spur of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too. This spur begins from the watershed ridge north of the Alamedin Pass.

In the area of Peak 4650, this spur branches out, forming:

  • a western branch running along the Alamedin valley;
  • an eastern branch running along the Issyk-Ata river valley.

In the formed fork of the ridge lies one of the largest glaciers of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too — Kashka-su, providing the main water supply to the Porus river.

Peak 4230 m is located in the western branch of the Alamedin spur and is clearly visible from the city of Frunze. The northwestern slopes of the peak, together with the adjacent unnamed peaks of the western branch of the Alamedin spur, form the catchment area of the small Cholok glacier, which was not marked on the "Orographic scheme of the highlands of the northern slopes of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too" compiled by B.R. Marechek in 1952.

The eastern slopes of "Peak 4230 m" drop off with sheer cliffs to the Kashka-su glacier. However, these walls are short and are not of sporting interest.

Two pronounced ridges depart from the summit:

  • one, with large "jandarmas" — to the north;
  • another — to the west, towards the Cholok Pass.

A counterfort departs from the summit to the southeast.

The Cholok Pass, leading from the eponymous valley to the Kashka-su glacier, has steep, icy, and snowy slopes from the north. To the south, the pass descends as a scree slope with an angle of up to 45 degrees. The pass point has an elevation difference:

  • with the Kashka-su glacier — 300–350 m;
  • with the Cholok glacier — about 500 m.

Sources

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