Kilse-Burun (712 m) — 14. "Hot Peace", 6A

Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Kharkov On October 17-18, Alexander Zakolodny (Kharkov) and Yuri Kruglov (Sevastopol) ascended a new route with a difficulty of 6A, in classical style from bottom to top, without prior processing from the top. The new route passes between the routes: "Yellow Submarine" and "Crocodile". The line passes between the routes: "Yellow Submarine" and "Crocodile". The landmark from the road is a large pine tree on the ledge.

• R0–R1. Up to the right on the broken rocks. Station on a large ledge, 10 m to the left of the large pine tree. 35 m, IV.
• R1–R2. Up 5 m, then to the right into the red corner and up the right wall onto a large ledge. From the ledge, on the wall, find a hole for a skyhook and then up a small crack under the overhang with a characteristically pronounced square stone. Station on its own (anchor hook left). 38 m, VI, A2.
• R2–R3. From under the overhang to the right and up 8 m, to a vertical crack. Up the crack. Station on the shallowing, there is a bolt and a hook. 38 m, VI, A2+. Almost all stations are protected from stones.

Maly Kilse-Burun, Skalnaya khirurgiya route, 6A, by V. Voloshanovsky

The start is to the right of the "Spear" near the white spot on the wall. Maly Kilse, route threads Route threads. Photo by: Alexey Zhilin R0–R1, 40 m 6A, A2. Climb the slab to a bolt, then move right to a crack. After 7 m, the crack ends; continue right and up using ATC ( крючья, скайхуки). Exit to a hanging position. Station on bolts. R1–R2, 20 m 6A, A2. Cross the overhang using ATC (need bolts for 10 mm holes). Beyond the overhang, a mix of climbing and ATC, up and right. Station on bolts (hanging). R2­–R3, 45 m 6a, A2. Up a narrow crack, enter an internal corner. Climb the corner

Author: Anatoly Geniush, Sevastopol. Description of the first ascent of the route "Doroga uehala" 5B cat. on Merdven-Kaya, S-E wall, to the right of Hergiani rock. The group consisting of A. Geniush, V. Kudryavtsev, A. Lyashko, on March 29, 2008. The start of the route is under the sparse trees to the left of the large inner corner - a chimney in the middle part of the South-East wall. The first rope is an easy climb of 3 cat. upwards and to the right to the last right tree (40 m). Further (second rope) - difficult climbing along an oblique, heavily destroyed crack:

• up and to the right 20 m;
• move to the right 3 m;
• straight up through the cleft 3 m - entrance to the inner corner, turning into a chimney of medium width. At the bottom of the chimney - an uncomfortable station on закладках and stone corks. Further climbing through a narrow, overhanging chimney, turning into an overhanging inner corner with a cleft. Large friends are needed for protection. At the end of the corner, where the cleft strongly overhangs:

Mer­ven-Ka­ya­sy — 4. «Se­vas­to­pol-230», VI cat. diff., A3, F6c, Е4.

First ascenders:

• Yuri Kруг­lov (Se­vas­to­pol)
• Vlad­imir Odo­yev (Se­vas­to­pol) Date: August 6, 2013 The route was ascended from bottom to top in the classic style. Climbing hours: 20. Pho­tographs of the rou­te sections «Se­vas­to­pol–230», the ap­proach path and gen­eral in­for­ma­tion can be found here. The rou­te thread in not very good we­ather: The «Se­vas­to­pol–230» route — view from below

Author: Yuri Kruglov, Sevastopol

"Sevastopol-230" — a new route on Merdven-Kayasy

The impetus for the new route was the first ascent of the "Trudnosti" route on Merdven-Kayasy, which starts from the sap. The angle dimensions at Forosskiy Kant. (a virgin vertical route on it) The weather was constantly changing, while sitting in the wardroom, sometimes with Oleg. Patience to sit PС (skis are provided) on Saturday, March 30, we planned to pass in April, but the weather was pouring rain until then. The attempt to climb PС took place. And finally, on Saturday, April 6, the weather presented a gift — we climbed and descended! The route turned out to be complex, interesting, very logical, beautiful, and memorable. To date, it is the most challenging route on Merdven-Kayasy. Not a single piton "for passage" was needed, but we equipped the stations along the way with stationary bolts from Kong and Fixe (with rings). In the upper part, the route connects with the "Bezzavetnyy" route. The terrain everywhere allows for natural protection. Route characteristics:

• Tense climbing with a transition to artificial technical climbing (a.t.c.) and back to free climbing — a characteristic feature of the route.

Morcheka — 23

Author: Ivan Ershov, Moscow. "Variant" route, 6+ cat. (Mt. Morcheka, November 1986, I. Ershov) From the parking spot under the wall (in the cirque), follow the path under the right part of Mt. Morcheka's wall. The route starts to the right of two characteristic pine trees, the right one of which touches the wall with its top — about 10 meters to the right of the second pine. From the sloping shelf (slab), go straight up to a bolt (aid climbing), then up and slightly left along a blind crack. Characteristic features:

• pilasters;
• only with aid climbing;
• extremely careful;
• block placements;
• constructions like stopper + piton;
• small-sized stoppers.

Author: Alexander Lav­rin­en­ko, Odesa

"Total Recall" Route 4B (SE wall)

• Lav­rin­en­ko A.
• Ku­zmen­ko A.
• Na­d­to­chiy S. (December 2006) The idea of the route belongs to "Terrorist", we even tried to accomplish it in January 2006, but were "blown away" by an unusually strong and cold wind. Almost a year later we returned. The route starts about 50 meters to the left of the "Gift Set" route. It's easy to find the beginning - a simple gentle internal corner. R0–R1 55 m 5B

Triangle Mountain, new route "Trio" 5B

The route was climbed by a team consisting of: Sasha Zakolodnii, Grisha Grigoryev, Denis Kozyrkov from Kharkov. To date, this line is the sixth, the leftmost one on the wall. The route is very diverse and logical. It entirely follows the natural relief, with a lot of climbing. I made a special effort to minimize the number of bolts and rock transitions (there are only four bolts in total, three of which are on stations). The total time taken to complete the route is 21 hours. The route was climbed in May 2011. The route starts 10 meters to the left of the "Renaissance" route, near a small pine tree standing alone. On the wall, a letter "Т" is carved. The line of the "Triangle" route. High-resolution photo R0–R1 50 m, A2, VI, 75–90°. From the small pine tree, go straight up through a series of cracks by climbing; after 15 meters, the cracks converge into one, using artificial aids (slightly to the left of the overhang). Then the crack diverges; continue upwards to the right using artificial aids (old bolts will be visible on the left, but you shouldn't go towards them). Station: bolt + personal anchor. R1–R2 40 m, A2, V+, 75°. From the station, go straight up the crack using artificial aids for 15 meters. Then climb upwards to the left towards the pine trees (a lot of vegetation). Station on the leftmost pine tree + personal anchor. R2–R3 50 m, A2+, VI, 75°–80°. From the station, climb upwards to the left onto the "katushki" (rocky outcrops) using artificial aids for 15 meters. Then continue upwards through the cracks, and afterwards slightly to the left, by climbing. Station on a small inclined ledge, at the base of a not very pronounced angle. Bolt + personal anchor.

Triangle — 5. "Orthodox"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6A, VI, A3+ Authors: E. Poltavets (Kharkov), A. Lavrinenko (Odessa) Year of creation: 2010 Length: 485 m Time to complete: 15–20 h Route description: The line passes through the central part of Triangle. The route is long, laborious, and minimally equipped with bolts. The rock is not monolithic everywhere. From the overnight stay, approach the wall and move left for 100 m. The route starts 50 m to the left of the start of route №6 "Druzhba" — the letter "D" on the wall. The starting point is marked by fresh collapse traces under the wall. R0–R1 45 m. Up a five-meter overhanging wall to the right. The terrain then becomes more manageable. Move left and up along a wide crack with a small tree. After 30 m, the crack turns right and disappears. On the wall, move left and up 8 m towards the inner corner to a bolt, then climb left into the corner. It's better to set up a station in the corner, under the protection of a ledge, as the second section has very crumbling rocks.

• 35 m V
• 8 m VI A3+
• 3 m V R1–R2 35 m. Without using the resonating plate on skyhooks, move right and up (3 holes), then up through crumbling terrain; there are two bolts. From the second bolt, move along a shelf to the left, then up 5–7 m through a crumbling corner. Station on personal anchors.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Forosskiy kant. Routes of the "Green corner"

At the end of January, we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) climbed a new route in the left part of the Forosskiy kant, along the left edge of the "Green corner". The route looks so logical that it's surprising it wasn't climbed earlier. In the very corner, human tracks are visible, but whether it was completed to the top - I don't know; at least, I saw 2 rappel loops. The route starts at the same point as the left variant of the Kant, and goes left; the 2-grade route goes even further left. 125 ± 2 m, 5B, TD "along the left edge" Pugachev, Lavrinenko 35A TD - Timofeev's route