Report

On the ascent to Dolomit Centralny peak via the route along the Western wall edge ("Мечта" or "Dream"), rock climbing, category 4B, by the "BARS" team from August 8, 2020 to August 8, 2020.

I. Climbing Report

“Live” rock - piton protection, with several small gendarmes and narrow, short saddles, ascend to the site of the East shoulder of the ascent between two small gendarmes. From the site, overcoming a small gendarme head-on, cross the saddle and via steep rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the ridge, ascend to the Big gendarme. The Big gendarme can be initially bypassed on the shelves on the left side, then via steep couloirs (“live” rocks, protection) ascend behind it to the snowy saddle under the 3rd gendarme. The gendarme is overcome head-on via rocks of medium difficulty. Bypass the 4th gendarme via steep destroyed rocks, with an exit above the saddle under the gendarme. This gendarme is passed via rocks of medium difficulty on the ridge, then via the sharp snowy 200–250-meter ridge (cornices), via simple rocks the ascent to the summit of Zaromag. From the gendarme “ZIL” hours. Descent to the south. The duration of the route is 3 days.

a small rocky ridge and then under the wall to a well-defined inner corner. Up the 6-meter inner corner to a small site. Then, along a heavily destroyed 20-meter couloir, ascent to the ridge. From the ridge, cross a wide scree couloir, followed by a 60 m traverse along a steep, heavily destroyed, moderately difficult rocky slope to reach the ice-snow couloir. Along the 60-meter ice-snow slope, and in the upper part - a heavily destroyed rocky couloir - exit from the top of the North Counterfort to the right onto the snow slope of the hanging glacier. From here, first along the snow slope, bypassing the rocky island of the North Counterfort to the right, then passing between the rocks and a large crevasse to the right, along a steep ice-snow 150-180-meter slope, move left-up to the upper part of the snow plateau of the hanging glacier. Along a gentle snow slope, approach the saddle of the Eastern ridge to the right of the "ЗИЛ" gendarme. Overcoming the bergschrund along a snow bridge, ascend a steep 40-meter ice-snow slope to the saddle of the Eastern ridge. From the bivouac at the 2nd gendarme, 5-6 hours. From here along the Eastern ridge.

2.3.123 119

Chugur-Bashi Peak

Ascent from the saddle between Chugur-Jar peak and Chugur-Bashi peak along the western ridge, category 2B. From "Uzunkol" alpine camp along the left bank of the Kichkinekol river to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. Along the stream (trail) ascend to a side green terrace and further exit to the upper part of old "ram's foreheads" and along the left gray moraine (trail) – exit to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. From the alpine camp to the plateau — 3–3.5 hours. Across the plateau towards the slopes of Kichkinekol pass and up to the bergschrund, keeping closer to the slopes of Filtr peak. Cross the bergschrund via a bridge (belay!) and ascend 120 m along the snowy slope up to 40°. Ascend to a snow step and through it exit to Kichkinekol pass. From the plateau to the pass — 1.5–2 hours. From the pass descend to the Zamok glacier plateau and left, circumventing along the foot of Kichkinekol peak and Chugur-Jar peak and, not reaching the icefall, exit to the slopes of Chugur-Jar and along them – to the saddle towards Chugur-Bashi. From Kichkinekol pass — 1.5–2 hours.

Krasnoarmeets

A low rock tower of Krasnoarmeets peak (4200 m) is located in the Tsey range — the South ridge of the CDSA peak. Southwest of Krasnoarmeets stands a small sharp pyramid of Krasnoflotets peak. From the Karaugom plateau, Krasnoarmeets descends with:

• short unclimbed rock ribs, turning into a rugged ice-and-snow slope in the lower part.

114. Krasnoarmeets (4200 m) via Southwest ridge, category 2B (B. Simagin, M. Anufrikov, A. Gozhev, A. Makedonsky, N. Petrovich, T. Rozhdestvensky, K. Strekalov, August 23, 1946, during the traverse Bubis — Songuti). The path from the Tsey district KSP or from the village of Dzinaga (group 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in

66. Krasnoarmeets peak (combined route, category 4A) From the CSP of Tsey region through Khitsan pass to the North circus of Tsey glacier. Cross the circus in the direction of Dubl peak. Go around the CSA peak massif from the left. Overnight on a snowy plateau below Krasnoarmeets peak. From the overnight stay across the closed glacier through the bergschrund to the rocks of the Southeast ridge of Krasnoarmeets peak. Along the talus shelf on the rocks to the first control cairn (start of the route). From the cairn upwards through a steep rocky forehead (4–5 m) in the direction up to the right (sporty ascent). At this point the rocks have a negative angle of inclination. Further along the shelf:

• to the right,
• then left and up to a wide black chimney. Up the chimney (50–60 m, 60°, rockfall hazard!) to a site in the middle of the chimney. From the site further up the chimney with an exit from it to the right onto the ridge. On the ridge — a site, second control cairn. From the first to the second control cairn — 2–3 hours. Further:
• crossing a snow-talus slope,
• along rocks of medium difficulty (protection via a ledge) to a wide ridge.

74. Mamison via North Buttress

(combined route, category III, 5A) In early morning, the plateau under the North wall should be crossed towards the saddle between the peaks of Mamison-khokh and Chanchakhi-khokh. After starting to ascend the large oblique snowfield, cross the depression in the area of the snow bridge, and come out onto a steep snowy slope, trying to stay closer to the rocks, using them as shelter from falling rocks. Having reached the oblique snowfield, one needs to move under the overhanging rocks. The oblique snowfield is a steep icy slope covered with a layer of snow. Belaying is done using rock pitons. Having passed to the right along the snowfield, at its end descend level with the lower ledge. The central snowfield is ascended straight up. The steepness requires maximum caution, as the snow is very loose and shallow. Having ascended the snowfield, move into the left couloir, where the snow merges with ice-filled sections, forming huge icy icicles. Having climbed 50–60 m along the rocks, turn down, bypassing the overhang, and again ascend up the 100-meter wall. When passing, it is necessary to exercise extreme caution, as there is a threat of collapse of the delaminated slabs. Belaying is done through pitons. Under the wall, there is an icy ledge on which a bivouac for 4 people can be arranged. From the bivouac site, the path goes along a vaguely defined inner angle to the southwest wall, from there, traversing left, reach a narrow couloir. It starts with wet, overhanging rocks. Further on, three rope lengths of rocks are somewhat easier. Then a long groove is overcome, a small, crumbly wall is attacked head-on, and finally, one reaches the snowy pre-summit ridge. From the summit, the descent is made along the path of category IV, 4A.

Peak Nikolaev

Peak Nikolaev (3815 m) is named in memory of the mountaineer Nikolai Nikolaev. It is located in the eastern spur of the Mamison vertex, dividing the upper reaches of the Tsey Glacier into:

• Southern branch;
• Northern branch. Above the spur, the peak rises with a small rocky pyramid, from which a panorama of the peaks of almost the entire Tsey region opens.

193. Peak Nikolaev via the southern slope, 1B category of difficulty (B. Kizel, B. Aleynik, July 24, 1934). The path from the KSP Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut on the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in route 83. From the hut, descend to the glacier and along its right side approach the second wide snowy couloir descending onto the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier from the right. Here, turn right and ascend via the wide, gently sloping snowy couloir to the left side of the rocky cape protruding in the center of the couloir under the southern slopes of Peak Nikolaev. Bypass the rocky wall of the cape from the left along a steep snowy slope (protection). From it, exit to the right onto a wide balcony above the rocky cape (ice axe platforms) with a snowy slope — under the southern walls of the peak (leave ice axes on the platforms).

Nogkau

Nogkau (4020 m) is a solitary rocky tower rising not far from the end of the long North ridge — a spur of the Burjula peak. Nogkau was conquered:

• On August 3, 1935 — by Poles Bernadzikiewicz, Wojnis, and Chwascinski;
• On August 19, 1937 — by A. Uvarov, M. Ivanov, V. Lebedev, and A. Mostinsky.

141. Nogkau from the North-East (the route is combined, category 2A, Fig. 20, 30). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (a group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau under the Nogkau peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, approach the North ridge of the Nogkau peak across the snowy plateau (closed crevices) and slope. Overcoming the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy, then the scree slope, and simple destroyed rocks to the North ridge to the right of the Nogkau rocky tower. Here, turn left and approach the summit tower via simple rocks of the North ridge. Bypass the tower on the right across simple rocks and ledges (with insurance). Then, ascend to the summit of Nogkau via heavily destroyed rocks of the steep inner corner — a couloir (with insurance). From the initial bivouac:

1

Descend to the hanging glacier and approach it. Bypass the ascent on the right along the steep icy slope and on the right, and the ascent's rocks on the left. Above the drop-offs reach the hanging glacier. along the steep snow-firn slope of the glacier with crevasses ascent to the upper plateau. Along it, approach to the right tower. Bypass the tower on the right and ascend 3B turn left and along simple snow-covered rocks