74. Mamison via North Buttress

(combined route, category III, 5A)

In early morning, the plateau under the North wall should be crossed towards the saddle between the peaks of Mamison-khokh and Chanchakhi-khokh. After starting to ascend the large oblique snowfield, cross the depression in the area of the snow bridge, and come out onto a steep snowy slope, trying to stay closer to the rocks, using them as shelter from falling rocks. Having reached the oblique snowfield, one needs to move under the overhanging rocks.

The oblique snowfield is a steep icy slope covered with a layer of snow. Belaying is done using rock pitons.

Having passed to the right along the snowfield, at its end descend level with the lower ledge. The central snowfield is ascended straight up. The steepness requires maximum caution, as the snow is very loose and shallow.

Having ascended the snowfield, move into the left couloir, where the snow merges with ice-filled sections, forming huge icy icicles. Having climbed 50–60 m along the rocks, turn down, bypassing the overhang, and again ascend up the 100-meter wall. When passing, it is necessary to exercise extreme caution, as there is a threat of collapse of the delaminated slabs. Belaying is done through pitons.

Under the wall, there is an icy ledge on which a bivouac for 4 people can be arranged.

From the bivouac site, the path goes along a vaguely defined inner angle to the southwest wall, from there, traversing left, reach a narrow couloir. It starts with wet, overhanging rocks. Further on, three rope lengths of rocks are somewhat easier. Then a long groove is overcome, a small, crumbly wall is attacked head-on, and finally, one reaches the snowy pre-summit ridge.

From the summit, the descent is made along the path of category IV, 4A.