Russian Championship in Alpinism

Technical Class 2019

REPORT

on the ascent to Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, 6B category of complexity — first ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai. July 30, 2019–August 2, 2019.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Ascent Record

1. Region — Karakoram, Trango group.
2. Peak — Great Trango (SW), 6237 m via the bastion of the northwestern wall.
3. Proposed — 6B cat. dif. (ED VI+, 7a, A3), first ascent.
4. Route characteristic — combined.

5. Route Description

wall section height difference — 1830 m, route length — 2100 m, sections of 6B cat. dif. — 1050 m, 5 cat. dif. — 530 m, average steepness of the wall section — 69°. 6. Left on the route: pitons — 18, including bolted — 12; "chocks" — 1. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted — 12, including for platform installation — 7; total ITC used — 500. 7. Number of climbing hours — 113, days — 13 (including processing).

Ascent Certificate

1. Eastern Tibet, Changping Gou river gorge, number in the KMGV section;
2. Celestial peak (5413 m) (Celestial, Pomio) via the center of the eastern wall (dedicated to the 45th anniversary of JSC "Amurenergo");
3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent;
4. Route type — combined;
5. Route elevation gain — 1412 m; Route length — 1525 m; Length of category V sections — 626 m, category VI — 759 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 75°, entire route — 70°.
6. Hooks left on the route: total — 32; including pitons — 17; Total used on the route:
   • rock pitons — 155;

Passport

1. Class: high-altitude
2. Indian Himalayas, Garhwal region
3. Changabang peak 6864 m, center of the North wall
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty (first ascent)
5. Height difference: from the bergschrund - 1700 m, length - 1900 m. Length of sections with 6B category of difficulty - 700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 75° (from the bergschrund to the summit). Steepness of the wall section (from 5250 to 6800 m) - 79° (from the beginning of the rock wall to the flattening before the ridge)
6. Hooks left on the route (not removed): pitons - 40 (used for descent), ice screws - 5, rock screws - 2, chocks - 3. Previously hammered hooks used and not removed - none
7. Team's working hours - 198 (including processing and descent time)
8. Overnights: from May 16 to May 30 (15 overnights) on platforms, hanging
9. Team leader:

Ascent Passport

prot. No. 1 dated 10/XI–92, p. 11, p.t., 2A l/s. Znat'iv I. Ascent class — snow and ice 2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains 3. Peak, its height, and route — Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr, via the snow and ice "Avalanche" couloir on the Wall of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr, 1068.2 m. 4. Expected difficulty category — 2A cat./diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m. walls Length of sections, cat. diff.

Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing of St. Petersburg

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Maly Vudyavrchorr via the first counterfort of the eastern wall (previously climbed by Shumilov O.I., 1992)

St. Petersburg, 2011. Ascent Passport

1. Murmansk region, Khibiny.
2. Maly Vudyavrchorr, 1068 m, via the first counterfort of the eastern wall (Shumilov O.I., 1992).
3. 4A category of difficulty.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 550 m.

As­cent Pass­port

1. Kola Penin­sula. Khibiny mo­untain range. "Poyasov" Cirque. Section num­ber of the clas­si­fi­ca­tion ta­ble: №8.6
2. Name of the peak — Takhtarvumchorr — 1143 m, name of the route — "Down the cen­ter of the Poyasov wall".
3. Pro­posed — 6A cat. dif., first as­cent.
4. Na­ture of the route: rock.
5. Height dif­fer­ence of the route: 350 m (by al­ti­me­ter) Length of the route: 400 m. Length of sec­tions of V cat. dif. — 120 m, VI cat. dif. — 156 m. Av­er­age steep­ness: main part of the route — 88.5°, whole route — 83°. 6. Pitons left on the route: to­tal — 3; in­clud­ing bol­lard pitons — 2. Pitons used: sta­tio­nary bol­lard pitons: 2 pcs. To­tal ar­ti­fi­cial points of sup­port (APS) used: 105 points. Team's work­ing hours: 30 h.

Alupka Wall — 7. "Berserk"

Alpinism, Crimea Fans Written by Elena Dmitrenko, November 19, 2009 19:47 Berserk, 6A. Alupka Wall, Crimea. Michel Voloshanovskiy reports — along with Ilya Vinogradov, Andrey Zhigarev, and Sasha Rushkovskiy, they managed to complete a new route on the Alupka Wall. According to him, it turned out to be a "mega-hurricane." More precisely — "Berserk." These were the exact moods and fighting spirit that accompanied the entire action and its producers.

Michel's Account:

Initially, after a three-day alpine-style push, we fell short of reaching the summit by 35 meters: unexpectedly hot weather drained our water supply. The effect of thirst was similar to that experienced by the legendary berserkers who consumed crushed fly agaric before battle, if historians are not mistaken. When it became clear that we wouldn't make it, I started calling friends — acquaintances from mundane life — offering 500 hryvnias ($65) for 10 liters of water to complete the endeavor.

Balchik-Kaya — 2. “Beatrice”

Massif: Balchik-Kaya. Grade: 5A. Authors: O. Popov, M. Kashirsky Year of route creation: 2012. Route description:

• R0–R1 40 m. Over simple and moderately difficult terrain along the ridge, then reach the ridge. 40 m III R1–R2 50 m. Up the complex wall, then over simpler terrain reach a grassy ledge, from the ledge up to a tree.
  • 5 m V
  • 5 m IV
  • 40 m II R2–R3 55 m. Up and left, approach a crack turning into an inside corner. Up the crack, then the corner. Station under a cornice.

"Sand Castle" - a new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall

A new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall by Evgeny Poltavets (ExtremeTeam, Kharkov) and Alexander Lavrinenko (Odessa). Having had enough of the usual "Small Mountains", Alexander Lavrinenko and I followed our established tradition and set out to make a first ascent. This tradition probably didn't develop by chance. After racing against the clock on familiar routes, we felt an uncontainable urge for adventure and creative expression. Alexander Lavrinenko Evgeny Poltavets

Object

Kastropolskaya Wall, Crimea