99. Dinamo via the East Ridge. The route is rocky, category III (fig. 5, 87, 9.5, 97, 101, 102). Length 1000 m, II 550 m, time 4 hours 10 minutes. The approach path from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size not limited) to the initial bivouac at the terminal moraine of the upper Beketty gorge is described in route 1. From the initial bivouac, approach the left side of the broad base of the East ridge of Dinamo peak. From the moraine, a 15-meter ascent up difficult simple rocks on the northeast slope of the North ridge. Then, 140–150 m up and to the right along a simple slope with easy scree shelves to a couloir, and up it 40–50 meters to the East ridge. Then, traverse 800–1000 meters along scree and easy broken rocks under the rocky walls of the left slope of the long East ridge, with numerous sharp gendarmes, to approach the summit rise. Up easy broken rocks, scree alternating with short simple walls ("live" rocks, protection) on the left side of the rise, ascend to the summit ridge and along it to the summit of Dinamo. From the initial bivouac, 3–4 hours.

I. Climbing category: ROCK. 2. Climbing region: Ki­chik-A­lay ridge (Pa­mi­ro-A­lay). 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 60 years of UAS­SR; 4150 m, via the eastern ridge. 4. Expected cat. difficulty: 3B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m; length of sections with 3–5 cat. difficulty — 140 m; average steepness — 45–50°. 6. Number of pitons: rock pitons for belay — 21 pcs. 7. Number of walking hours: 12 h.

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Archabashi gorge
3. Tamdykul peak, 5539 m, via the left part of the NW wall
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Route elevation gain — 1490 m, wall elevation gain — 1180 m. Route length — 2180 m, wall length — 1580 m. Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1270 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 71° (4150–5330 m), of which 6B category of difficulty — 79° (4900–5330 m).
6. Number of pitons used: rock: 116, wedges: 98, channels: 10, chocks: 69, ice screws: 3.

Brief Description

Ascent route to p. "Носорог" (Rhinoceros Peak) via the northern ridge, category 2B From the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Hodja-Sang-Hok valley, on a grassy clearing under the slopes of p. 40 let Komsomola Tadzhikistana (40 Years of Komsomol of Tajikistan Peak) and per. Sang-Hok, first ascend via grassy and then snowy slopes to below per. Sang-Hok. Without reaching the pass, turn right and ascend the snowy slope leading to the ridge, then along the ridge to the right for 40–50 meters on easy rocks — exit onto a snowy plateau. From the plateau, via simple rocks at 35–40°, reach the ridge visible from the base camp as a "fence". Move along the ridge towards the summit. Bypass obstacle rocks and cornices on the left. After descending into a small depression, bypass a rock pinnacle on the right by descending on snow to a snowy shoulder. Having bypassed the pinnacle, ascend to the ridge via an inner corner for 40 meters at 45°. Then, for 60 meters, move along the inner corner of the ridge to the "Rog" pinnacle. From the "Rog" pinnacle, descend into a small depression and ascend to the summit via a snowy slope, bypassing the ridge on the left on snow. The descent from the summit is to the south along the ridge, then via simple rocks for 40–50 meters into a wide snowy couloir, which leads to a snowy plateau. An alternative descent is possible via the ascent route. The entire route is visible from the base camp and is logical. Recommended for camping and sports groups. A. Koshkin + 3 people, July 5, 1983, 300 m, 40°, 6 rock rings, 1 artificial aid, 8.5 hours.

Table of Main Characteristics of the Route

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE to p. "Носорог" (Rhinoceros Peak) via the northern ridge, category 2B

Треугольный (4100) via W rib - 4A cat. 350, 45–50°, 30 m, 1, 20 pitches, 6 hours. Yu. Emelyanenko, T. Medvedeva 28/VII-83. Average steepness of sections R2–R10: 50–55°. Average steepness of sections R10–R20: 45°.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to peak 4100 m (conditionally named peak Треугольный) via Western rib 4A cat.

• Summit elevation: 4100 m
• Conditional name: peak Треугольный
• Difficulty category: 4A

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Hissar Range
3. Peak, elevation, ascent route — XXX years of "Varzob" 4367 m, via the center of the western bastion.
4. Difficulty category — 5A (estimated)
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 75°. Route length — 1000 m.
6. Pitons placed:

Ascent to the summit of Avicenna Peak

via NW ridge - 26 km journey The ascent to the summit starts from a bivouac located on the upper moraine of the Avicenna Glacier under Seraia Peak. Cross the Avicenna Glacier and head towards the snowy couloir descending from a gap in the NW ridge of Avicenna. The gap is located far to the right of the summit. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund, above which the couloir narrows and reaches a steepness of 40–45°. When ascending, stick to the right side of the couloir. From the gap, follow the left side of the ridge, initially traversing icy slabs - 6–7 m, then snow, staying close to the rocks. The snowy slope is steep - 40–45°, requiring protection through outcrops and pitons. Overcoming this 150 m section, reach a chimney 15 m high formed by the ridge rocks and a large standalone rock. After the chimney, a short rocky section with alternate protection leads to a small flat area. Continue with alternate protection along moderately difficult rocks, traversing the ridge on the left side. Then, follow a small snowpatch, bypassing it from below. Next, overcome a 10-meter chimney on steep granite rocks to reach the ridge. Protection through outcrops. The further 50 m path along the ridge on easy rocks presents no significant difficulties. A control cairn is built at the highest point of this section. Descend to the base of a gendarme along easy rocks on the ridge and a 4-meter wall. The gendarme is bypassed on the left by descending down the rock and snow along the gendarme for about 20 m. Pitons are used for protection during the bypass. Then, ascend to the right along easy rocks towards the ridge until reaching the boundary between rocks and snow. Descend from the ridge to a snowpatch via a narrow chockstone. Approach the next gendarme, which is taken head-on, along the snowpatch. Once on the gendarme, move along smooth granite rocks and descend via a chimney to the foot of a large dome-shaped gendarme.

Ascent Route Description to the Summit

Babr from the North 1B–6B cat. diff.

The Babr peak (about 4020 m above sea level) is located in the southern spurs of the Hissar ridge, in the Sang-i-Navishta mountain group, in the ridge dividing the basins of the glaciers:

• Sangalt
• Avicenna between the peaks Khar'kov and Piramida. The peak is a rocky massif with a gendarme located on the right in the ridge of the peak (when viewed from the Sangalt glacier, from where the ascent is made). From the overnight stay located at the left edge of the Sangalt glacier (below the Kruglaya peak), we cross the firn plateau of the cirque and exit to a snowy slope, then ascend to the heavily destroyed rocks, and climb to the northern ridge of the peak — below the gendarme. On the right side of the ridge, we approach a vertical cleft and ascend to the highest point of the gendarme. Descent from the gendarme to the saddle is rationally done "sitting on a rope" (5 m). From the saddle to the summit, the ascent proceeds along the ledges on the right side of the ridge. On the ridge, saddle, and ledges along the way to the summit, the rocks are heavily destroyed and there are many loose stones.

62. Babr, Northeast Face, Category III, Diagram 32.

From the bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Sangalt Glacier, cross the firn plateau of the cirque and approach the northeast wall of the summit via a snowslope. The ascent begins on heavily broken rock slabs with a slope of up to 40° for 50 m to a ledge that is clearly visible from below. The ledge has either snow or scree. Follow the ledge rightwards along the wall for 80 m to the start of a rock couloir. From there, ascend the wall, which is broken by ledges, for 50 m in the direction of an inside corner formed by the main wall and the wall of a buttress. The rocks are of moderate difficulty, and protection is via pitons. Ascend the left wall of the inside corner for 120 m to a chimney. The climbing is difficult. Exit the chimney via its left wall onto a platform. Then move leftwards and upwards on a poorly defined ridge for 150 m to the summit ridge. Protection is via pitons. Traverse rightwards along the broken summit ridge for about 200 m to the summit. Movement is simultaneous. The descent from the summit to the northwest is Category II (Route 61). The ascent takes 9–11 hours. Diagram 32.

Otechestvennoy voyny 18 c.t. from l. 3 Ordzhonikidze along the S ridge

Route description.

Initial bivouac on the right lateral moraine of Tuyksu glacier. From here, move in the direction of the northwest lateral ridge of Ordzhonikidze peak. Before reaching it, turn left. Ascend a steep scree to the terminal part of Zapadny Ordzhonikidze glacier, then traverse it to a drop, bypass it on the right, and continue ascending the scree to the last ridge of rocks descending from Mayakovsky peak. From here, begin ascending the western ridge. Traverse easy, broken rocks or, further to the right, a couloir filled with small and medium scree. Upon reaching the ridge, continue moving towards the col between Mayakovsky and Otechestvennoy voyny peaks (50–60 m). Further:

• Scree, followed by broken rocks, will lead to the beginning of the southern ridge of "Otechestvennoy voyny" peak.
• Small gendarmes on the ridge should be bypassed on the left. To rejoin the ridge, overcome a couloir ending in a steep rocky section (pitons, 2–3 hooks). After overcoming several gendarmes directly, reach the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations: