ASCENT LOG.

5.2.12

Climbing category — technical. Climbing area — Gissar Ridge, Igizak area. Peak, its height, route — p. Bivachnaya, 3400–3320 m, via the West face. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 115 m, average steepness — 57°. Pitons hammered in:

• rock — 92
• ice —

Open Championship of Sverdlovsk Region on Alpinism

Report on the ascent to the peak Bivachnaya 3700 m via "diagonals" of the Western wall, approximately 5B cat. diff., made by the team of Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the DSO "Burevestnik"

Team leader and coach Igolkin V.I. 1987 Chelyabinsk Regional Council DSO "Burevestnik" Address: 454080, Chelyabinsk, Lenina ave., 78 Chairman of the Regional Council - Deyneko Sergey Ivanovich, work tel. 39–91–01 (transformed into the sector of student sports of the Regional DLSO of Trade Unions) Team leader and coach Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich

Report

On the ascent of the group

From the Alpinism club of Magnitogorsk to the summit of Bivachnaya Gissarskaya 3700 m via the "crevice" of the Western wall

Magnitogorsk

2012

Leader of the first ascent in 1979: Viktor Ivanovich Igolkin. Leader and coach of the ascent in 1987: Viktor Ivanovich Igolkin Leader and coach of the ascent in 2012 with the goal of restoring the route: Viktor Ivanovich Igolkin 455000 Magnitogorsk, Lenin Ave. 37, apt. 23, e-mail: a­va­re.i­vi@gmail.com, tel. (3519) 20-82-17, 8 909 093-65-21

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky ridge (section 5.2)

φ5 Section R2–R3 Photo 6. Section R2–R3 Photo 7. Belay station at the start of R4–R5. A belay anchor will be placed here. Photo 8. At the arch. Photo 10. Key 2. Overhanging ruined chimney. Photo 12. Start of section R9–R10

52. The Twins from the South, category III, route 26, fig. 27.

The ascent to the summit is done from the Panorama Peak cirque. The approach from the mouth of the Siama River along the Panorama Peak River takes 5 hours. It is possible to start the ascent from the lake below the Varzobskaja pila Peak. In this case, it is necessary to:

• Cross a grassy spur into the Panorama Peak valley
• Reach the foot of the Twins under the slopes of the Krylja Tadzhikistana Peaks. The ascent to the summit is via grassy slopes and scree with individual rock outcrops. In places, fine scree lies on slabs, requiring special care. Snow is present at the beginning of summer. The traverse from the Main summit to the Northeast summit is done through the gap between them. Descend from the Main summit down the rocks for 20–30 m to a ledge, from which a fixed rope leads to the col. The rope can be left in place and used upon return. Cross the sharp ridge of the col to beneath the Northeast summit. First, follow the scree ledge to the right of the ridge, then traverse the slab and easy rocks of the ridge to reach the summit. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. The ascent takes 8 hours. Fig. 27

Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via route 2A cat. difficulty The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via route 4B cat. difficulty. At the same time, climbers ascend to the peak via the western wall and descend to the east, continuing the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to 2A cat. difficulty and can be recommended for badge holders and athletes. Approaches for the described ascent are made via the same paths as for the traverse of Varzob Saw from W to E via route 3B cat. difficulty, i.e., via the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The exit to the saddle is made in its right part (not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, gutters, etc. On the saddle:

• There are areas for setting up two tents.
• Snow is present almost all year round - on the northern side. Movement along the saddle to the Western peak:

Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via the 2A category route The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is typically climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via the 4B category route. In doing so, climbers ascend the peak via the western wall and descend to the east to continue the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to the 2A category and can be recommended for badge holders and ranked climbers. The approach for this ascent is made via the same paths as for the Varzob Saw traverse from W to E: via the 3B category route, i.e., along the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The ascent to the saddle is made on its right side (but not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, grooves, etc. There are areas on the saddle suitable for setting up two tents, and snow is present almost year-round on the northern side. Movement along the saddle towards the Western peak occurs:

• initially along the ledges on the northern side of the ridge,
• then, closer to the Western peak, on the southern side (belaying is mandatory). The ascent to the peak is made via short wall sections (1–1.5 m) alternating with ledges. The route here is easily chosen and passes:

PASSPORT

Ascents

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak — Pik Vladivostok (4257 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 687 m; length of category 2 sections — 282 m; » » category 3 — 303 m;

Championship of Leningrad

in mountaineering 1935 Technical class

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor 2nd Western peak via the shortest path on the NW wall, cat. 5-5, by the team of LOC DSO "Burvestnik" from August 8 to 12, 1935 Team captain — MS USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich Team coach — MS USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich.

Ascent passport

I. Ascent class

Ascent Log

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Eastern Sayan–Tunkin Goltsy, Kyngarga valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Trekhglavaya, 2511, Central peak via the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 450 m. Average steepness — 55° Length of section: 5–6 pitches — 24 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belaying and creating artificial anchors: Rock — 49, ice — none, bolted — none.