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Description of the route to the summit of Pelychap from the west, complexity category I.6B.

ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF PELYCHACHAP from the west — I.6Б.

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Detailed description of a Category 5B route via the Southwest Face of Pik Shokoladny (3650 m) in the Western Caucasus, including an in-depth analysis of section passage and recommendations.

Ascent Log

  1. Category: Technical.
  2. Region: Western Caucasus, Uzunkol, Myrdy gorge.
  3. Object: Shokoladny peak (3650), via the center of the SW wall.
  4. Complexity category: 5B.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Height difference: 620 m;
    • Section lengths:
      • 6th category — 115 m;
      • 5th category — 344 m;
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Description of a new 6B category route to the summit of **Domбай-Ullery (Dombay-Western)** via the North-West face, climbed by a group of Irkutsk climbers in February 2005.

Ascent Passport

  1. Main Caucasus Range, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, Ptysh river gorge, No. 2.2 according to KVGK.
  2. Dombay Western peak, via the northwest wall cleft. The ascent is dedicated to the memory of climber-warriors who perished in the Caucasus mountains during the Great Patriotic War.
  3. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B — first ascent.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Route height difference: 1104 m. Route length: 1240 m. Length of sections: category V — 350 m, category VI — 460 m. Average slope: 82 ° for the main part of the route, 72 ° for the entire route.
  6. Number of pitons left on the route: 25 total, including 21 bolts.
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First ascent via the southern wall of Dombay Western peak, 6A category of difficulty, climbing report, route description and photos.

Route Passport

  1. Western Caucasus, Dombay, section number according to KMGV 2.2.
  2. Dombay Western 4036 m via the counterfort of the South wall.
  3. 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. The route is rock.
  5. The height difference of the route is 1036 m (by altimeter). Route length 1715 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty 255 m. Length of sections with VI category of difficulty 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 80°, total route 55°.
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Report on the first ascent of a Category 6A route on the southern bastion of Domбай-Ulgen West peak in 2000.

Passport

  1. Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
  2. Dombai-Ulgen Western, via the bastion (bastion) of the southern wall.
  3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route character: rock.
  5. Height difference: 1036 m. Route length — 1450 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 230 m, 6th category of difficulty — 130 m; Average steepness: main part of the route from the base of the wall to the ridge (excluding the talus hollow) — 72° (3070–3950).
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Passport of a new climbing route, 6B category of complexity, through the center of the Triangle on the southern wall of the Dombai-Ulgen Western summit.

Ascent Passport

  1. Russia, Caucasus.
  2. Rock class.
  3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
  4. Peak Dombay-Ulgen Western (4036 m), through the center of the Triangle of the southern wall.
  5. Proposed 6B category difficulty, first ascent.
  6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length — 1690 m; length of sections 5–6 category difficulty — 605 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (Triangle South wall) — 84°;
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First ascent via the North Face of the 2nd Zapadnaya Shhelda (4310) in the Central Caucasus; grade 6A, 985 m, over 6 days.

Climbing Passport

I. Winter category. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Shkhelda 2nd Western peak (4310) via the black stream on the South-Southwest wall through the cornices. 4. Proposed - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 550 m (350 m of wall and 200 m of roof); length - 985 m (450 m of wall), 5-6 category of difficulty - 350 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 90 m; 6th - 259 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 73°. 6. Pitons driven: rock, nuts, bolt hangers, skyhooks

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19855
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Report on the ascent of route category 5B on the North face of Shkhelda 3-West peak, made by the team of the State Sports Committee of the Kabardino-Balkarian ASSR in 1987.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda Valley
  3. Shkhelda 3-western via the North face of the North-West ridge (Kensitskiy's variant)
  4. 5B category of difficulty.
  5. Height difference — 903 m. Length — 1152 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52°. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 72°.
  6. Pitons hammered:
    • rock: previously used – 4, new – 0
    • bolt: previously used – 22, new – 17
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Ascent to Shhelda III West (4229 m) and traverse of Shhelda Central and Shhelda East via the North wall in winter conditions, grade 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
  3. III West Shkhelda, 4229 m, via the North wall and traverse of Central and Eastern Shkhelda peaks (4320 m)
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: — wall section height difference: 1130 m — average steepness of the wall section: 48° — route length: 3190 m — wall section length: 1560 m
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First winter ascent of the route along the left edge of the northern wall of Shkhara (4295 m) with 5th category of difficulty, made in 1996.

Addresses and Phone Numbers

Organization and address for inquiries:

  • 361603, Kabardino-Balkarian Republic, Elbruss post office, KSP. Coach: Tilov Boris Osmanovich Shkhelda (C) via the left edge of the N. wall, 4295 m. 6A category of difficulty, first winter ascent. Elevation gain: 1290 m, length — 1950 m. 5 category of difficulty — 520 m; 6 category of difficulty — 200 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 57°. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — 12 pcs.
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