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Route Description: с юга по В гребню
A description of the combined route, category 2B, to the peaks Nakhalibita — Mayak from the Nakhodibita glacier, passing through the glacier, snow-ice slopes, and rocks.
Route 1. Nakhalibita — Mayak via Idiа along the Nakhоdibita glacier
D2H5Й, combined, 2B category of difficulty From the "Nakhalibita" ascent - north along the grassy slopes, along a small river flowing from the "Nakhalibita D2H5H" glacier, exit to the terminal moraine of the glacier (photo 32). From here, to the right with a gain in height - ascent to the upper snowfield (avalanche debris to the left, orographically from the lowering of the glacier tongue). From the "Nakhalibita" clearing, about two hours. Wearing crampons, in rope teams, exit to the glacier along a fairly steep ice slope. Crevasses are passed over snow bridges, approximately in the middle part of the glacier. Belay through ice axe and ice screws (1-2 pieces). After 30-40 minutes, having exited to the open, gentle part of the glacier, cross it to the left along the way, under the rocks, along a steep snowy ascent 200-250 m long. The bergschrund is overcome along a snow bridge. Belay through ice axe. Further ascent along the rocks, having a steep icy slope to the right along the way, broken by crevasses. Having crossed a wide transverse crevasse, visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing, ascent along the rocks of Malaya Nakhashbita along a steep snowy-icy slope, above the diagonal bergschrund, between two separate rocky outcrops to a large triangular rock, clearly visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing. Here you can make a halt. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing - 5-6 hours of walking. From the rocks, having crossed a small crevasse, traverse the snowy-icy slope to the right along two bergschrunds. Belay through ice screws (1-2 pieces). Bergschrunds are crossed in the middle part along bridges with careful belay. Further along a steep (35-40°) snowy-icy slope - exit to the saddle between Malaya Nakhashbita and Glaznaya. Belay through ice screws (2-3 pieces), movement straight on with front points. From the rest place under the triangular rock - one to two hours of walking.
Route Description: траверс
Description of a combined route, category 5A, to the peaks Maly Sugan, Centralny Sugan, and Uzlovoy Sugan in Kabardino-Balkaria.
- Sugan Maly — Uzlovoy (V. Popov's combined route, cat. 5A, fig. 11). The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the scree of the wide snow plateau of the Sugan ridge saddle between the peaks Suganbashi on the left and Maly Sugan on the right is described in route 35. From the base camp — 8–10 hours. The path from the "Nakhashbita" glade to the initial bivouac via the Doppakh pass takes:
- 1–2 days (see routes 17, 22, 26, 28). From the bivouac, along the snow plateau, bypassing the Southeast ridge of the Central Sugan peak on the right, approach the snowy slope of the wide couloir descending from the upper part of the Southeast ridge of the massif to the plateau. Overcoming the bergschrund, perform a 200 m ascent, sticking to the rocks, along the steep ice-snow slope (running belay). Then:
- ascend 40 m along the wet slabs (running belay) to the Southeast ridge of Maly Sugan;
- turn right;
- ascend 160 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of the ridge with numerous gendarmes;