79. Ailama via North Face (the route is combined, V. Ivanova, 5B cat. diff., fig. 5, 17, 19). To the right of the Nuam-Kuam glacier (pic. 78) descend under the North Face of Ailama peak and, having passed under it (closed crevices, landslides, avalanches), approach the first right rocky counterfort of the North-East ridge of Ailama. From here, from the plateau upwards along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the first rocky outcrop of the counterfort. From the outcrop traverse upwards — to the right along the ice-and-snow slope with the intersection of ice gullies and two rocky outcrops to approach under the middle of the Lower (I) narrow rocky belt of the North Face of Ailama (stones, avalanches, landslides). Along steep rocks of above average difficulty 20–30 m up to the I rocky belt. From it 200–300 m up to under the II wide rocky belt to the right of a small snow patch. Along a difficult wall with two small shelves 50–60 m up to a wide shelf. On the shelf a sitting bivouac is possible. From the shelf 50–60 m up along steep rocks of above average difficulty (“live” stones) to the II rocky belt. From it 150–200 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope to under the III rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 50–60 m up to a small site. On the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac — 12–14 hours. From the site along icy rocks of above average difficulty 30–40 m up to the III belt. Further 300–350 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope with rocky outcrops to under the IV rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 10–12 m up to shelves. Along them 25–30 m up-to-the-right and through a difficult 5–6-meter wall exit to a wide shelf. Further:

• Along the shelf 30 m up-to-the-left
• Up 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty

128. Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya via South Ridge (combined route, O. Kha­za­rad­ze, 5B cat. dif., fig. 20, 22). From the “Morena Khal­de” base camp, cross the Khal­de Glacier and approach the right side of the broad triangular base of the South Ridge of Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya peak. To the left of the hanging glacier’s debris flows, 60 m to the right of the waterfall, via a rangklyuft, ascend 40–60 m up challenging and above-average-difficulty walls, slabs, and corners to a steep snowy slab — a ledge. Traverse 100–150 m left along the slab — ledge. After crossing the waterfall stream, approach a corner — couloir. Ascend 350–400 m up steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty with short challenging walls and ice-snow sections on the left side of the corner — couloir (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to the ledge of the Left Ridge of the triangle. Set up a bivouac on the ledge. 10–14 hrs from the base camp. From the ledge, ascend 150–200 m up a steep ice-snow couloir of above-average difficulty or the rocks on its right or left side (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to a ledge. Then, ascend 250–300 m up a steep ice-snow ridge — slope, rocks of average difficulty (“live” rocks), slabs, and an oblique snowy ledge to a ledge. Set up a bivouac. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the ledge, ascend 400–500 m up the sharp snowy-rocky South Ridge of average difficulty, overcoming gendarmes head-on, bypassing a tower on the right, to a saddle. Set up a bivouac on the snowy slope behind the saddle. 8–10 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend 50–60 m up rocks of average difficulty, then traverse 200–250 m up the destroyed and snowy-rocky South Ridge (cornices) to reach the summit of Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac.

Climbing Passport

I. Winter category. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Shkhelda 2nd Western peak (4310) via the black stream on the South-Southwest wall through the cornices. 4. Proposed - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 550 m (350 m of wall and 200 m of roof); length - 985 m (450 m of wall), 5-6 category of difficulty - 350 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 90 m; 6th - 259 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 73°. 6. Pitons driven: rock, nuts, bolt hangers, skyhooks

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda Valley
3. Shkhelda 3-western via the North face of the North-West ridge (Kensitskiy's variant)
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Height difference — 903 m. Length — 1152 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52°. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 72°.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: previously used – 4, new – 0
   • bolt: previously used – 22, new – 17

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
3. III West Shkhelda, 4229 m, via the North wall and traverse of Central and Eastern Shkhelda peaks (4320 m)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: — wall section height difference: 1130 m — average steepness of the wall section: 48° — route length: 3190 m — wall section length: 1560 m

Addresses and Phone Numbers

Organization and address for inquiries:

• 361603, Kabardino-Balkarian Republic, Elbruss post office, KSP. Coach: Tilov Boris Osmanovich Shkhelda (C) via the left edge of the N. wall, 4295 m. 6A category of difficulty, first winter ascent. Elevation gain: 1290 m, length — 1950 m. 5 category of difficulty — 520 m; 6 category of difficulty — 200 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 57°. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — 12 pcs.

102. Traverse of Shkhelda massif from east to west (V. Nesterov's route, category 5B). The path from Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Shkhelda Eastern is described in route 100. From the summit, descend 40 m down simple rocks of the Western ridge to a platform. From the platform, bypassing the ridge, descend into huge rock gates between two gendarmes. From the gates, make a 35-meter sporty descent down an icy couloir, followed by two 40-meter rappels and a descent down snowy, steep rocks of medium difficulty, initially down the slope and then along the ridge - a 70-80 m descent to a platform under the 2nd (from the east - 1st) gendarme of the ridge. The platform is a bivouac site. From the platform, bypass the 2nd and 1st gendarmes located on the ridge between the Eastern and Central summits, along a rocky and then snowy shelf, and then along rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the ridge to reach a platform under the ridge connecting the Eastern ridge of Shkhelda Central's rock tower. From the platform, ascend rocks of medium difficulty to the ridge under the Eastern wall, and from it, 40 m up rocks of medium difficulty, and then up difficult rocks of the wall to reach a ledge. Along the ledge, and then across a 6-7-meter smooth, steep slab - traverse right to a chimney. Up the steep, smooth, difficult chimney, ascend 5 m to a second ledge. Along the ledge, bypass a huge rock to the right. Behind the rock - straight up a 20-meter wall ("live" cams!), with small talus ledges - to the ridge of the eastern shoulder of the summit. Up the steep, destroyed ridge of the shoulder, ascend to a small gendarme. Descend from it under the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed on a ledge from the left, and behind it - exit to a platform above a small gap in the ridge.

101. Traverse of the Shkhelda massif from west to east (L. Nadezhdin's route, category 5B difficulty). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's Overnight Stay" and the second bivouac on the scree of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda is described in route #86. From the summit of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda, descend via scree, then via simple, destroyed rocks of the Eastern ridge, overcoming small gendarmeries on destroyed rocks of medium difficulty directly, reaching a small shoulder. From the shoulder, go right and down a couloir, then traverse left along snow-covered ledges and inclined slabs onto the ridge. From here, follow a simple, snow-covered rocky ridge, then a 4-5-meter vertical chimney and a 12-15-meter wall to descend onto a snow col before the large black 1st Western gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. From the col, ascend via a sharp snow ridge (cornices!) with rock outcrops - climb to the base of the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. Bypass the rocky tower by traversing along the ice-snow slope, then along inclined snow-covered slabs on the right. After a short descent along the ridge, continue descending via difficult and medium-difficulty rocks of the wall on the right side of the ridge, leaving a figurative gendarme on the right, and descend onto a snow col under the 2nd gendarme. From the col, ascend via rocks of medium difficulty on the steep, sharp rocky ridge to reach the 2nd gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. The ascent is possible:

• by traversing along a ledge on the right side of the ridge,
• then directly upwards via difficult rocks of a 40-50-meter wall.

110. Peak Shchurovskogo via North-Eastern Ridge (route by V. Pelevin, category 4B complexity). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) along the Shkhelda Glacier to the "Shkhelda bivouacs" is described in route 105. From the "Shkhelda bivouacs" cross the left branch of the Shkhelda Glacier upwards to the right and descend under the right side of the false Chatyn pass. From the glacier, ascend the steep snowy slope and through a bergschrund reach the rocks. Ascend along moderately difficult snowy rocks, then along easy terrain to the right side of the ridge saddle — the false Chatyn pass. From the saddle, turn right and move up along easy rocks of the North-Eastern ridge of Peak Shchurovskogo. Bypass the

Passport

1. Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
2. Dombai-Ulgen Western, via the bastion (bastion) of the southern wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character: rock.
5. Height difference: 1036 m. Route length — 1450 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 230 m, 6th category of difficulty — 130 m; Average steepness: main part of the route from the base of the wall to the ridge (excluding the talus hollow) — 72° (3070–3950).