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Route Description: В кф
Report on the first ascent of the 4818 m peak via a Category 5B difficulty route.
Report
On the first ascent of the peak 4818 m (Peak Ostroy) via the route 5B cat. diff. by a team from Krasnoyarsk and Perm regions from August 4 to 5, 2021
I. Climbing Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Popova Marina Evgenievna, MS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Dyupina Maria, MS, Oleneva Nadezhda, MS |
Route Description: левой части 3 стены
Description of the first ascent of the western wall of the peak 3800 m, complexity category IIIA, made by the sportsmen from PPC "Gornyak" in 1988.
- Summit — 3800 m, via the left part of the western wall.
- Proposed category of difficulty — IIIА, first ascent.
- Route length — 710 m.
- Length of sections: Category I — 20 m. Category II — 350 m. Category III — 260 m. Category IV — 80 m. Average steepness of the route — 45°. Average steepness of the wall section — 55°. Height difference — 430 m.
- Pitons hammered: Hook pitons — 9, chocks — 8
- Climbing hours — 10
Route Description: центру В стены
Description of a challenging climbing route on a wall with numerous traverses and complex technical sections.
1 American m — t, 2 m — t Solonnikovoy 5A, 3 m — t Yanushevicha 5B, 4
"Meresyev", IX — IX, A3
Route Description: центру З стены
Report on the first ascent via the center of the western wall of Peak Kyrkchilta, 4507 m, in the Karavshin gorge by a team from Sverdlovsk Oblast in 2015.
Report
Teams from Sverdlovsk Region
on the first ascent through the center of the western wall, to peak Kyrkchilta, 4507 m (Karavshin Valley) July 23–28, 2015
Climbing Passport
- Category — high-altitude and technical.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin Valley, 5.4.3.23a
- Peak Kyrkchilta, 4507 m, through the center of the W wall.
- Proposed 6B category of difficulty, First Ascent.
- Route character — rock climbing.
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Traverse of peaks 4810 m, 4507 m, 4521 m, 4000 m, and 3800 m in the Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, category of complexity 6B.
I. Traverse Class.
2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley.
3. Traverse of peaks: 4810 m (ascent via the left part of the NW wall, first ascent, approximately 6B cat. diff.) — 4507 m (1000th anniversary of Baptism of Rus) — 4521 m (Kotin Peak) — 4000 m (Dukhtarak Peak) — 3800 m (Dukhtarcha Peak).
4. First ascent, approximately 6B cat. diff.
5. Average height of peaks on the traverse — 4320 m.
Average height of cols between peaks on the traverse — 4000 m. Traverse length — approximately 8500 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff., not including rappelling — 2400 m. Rappelling down walls with 5–6 cat. diff. — 2240 m.
6. Pitons driven:
| Rock | Bolts | Nuts | Skyhook holes |
|---|
Route Description: внутренним углам СЗ стены
Report on the first ascent of Pik Breeze (4430 m) via the North-West Wall in Karavshin, complexity category 6B.
Russian Mountaineering Championship
High-altitude and technical class, 2023
Report
on the ascent to the summit of peak Breeze, 4430 m, via the internal corners of the northwest wall, 6B category of complexity, approximately. First ascent by the team from Krasnoyarsk from July 24, 2023, to July 25, 2023. 2023
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Prokofyev D.E. (MS) |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Popova M.E. (MS) |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
First ascent via the North-West wall of Pik Vektor (3716 m) in Altai, grade 6B, a rock climbing route with 900 m height difference.
11.69
Climbing Passport
- Region — Altai, Katunsky ridge, Miushtairy gorge
- Peak — Vector (3716 m), via the center of the NW wall
- Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Route type — rock
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1200 m route length — 1515 m length of 6 category of difficulty sections — 600 m
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the winter first ascent via the eastern edge of Nayramdal peak (4374 m) in Altai, made by Perm mountain club on March 14, 2001.
The address of the group leader: Perm, Druzhby st., house No. 16, apt. No. 58, postcode 614070. Tel.: (3422) 65-16-78. E-mail: otorten@ocpi.ru. In the "Format" menu, specify the following:
- sent text
- use encoding — Cyrillic KOI8-R Korolev A. Yu. All questions related to the ascent should be sent to this address. The heights indicated in the report were determined using contour lines on a topographic map with a scale of 1:200,000.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — winter.
- Ascent area — Altai, Mongolian Altai ridge.
Route Description: ЮВ стене
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, category 6B, completed by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai in 4 days in August 2019.
Russian Championship in Alpinism
Technical Class 2019
REPORT
on the ascent to Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, 6B category of complexity — first ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai. July 30, 2019–August 2, 2019.
I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Prokofyev D.E. (MS) |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of team members | Popova M.E. (MS), Matyushin N.O. (CMS) |
Route Description: с юго-запада по кулуару
Description of the combined route 1Б category of complexity to the summit Bodorku Western from the south via the couloir and the Eastern ridge.
151. Bodorku Zapadnuyu from the south via the couloir and the Eastern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 20, 23). On the saddle (point 150) turn left and ascend via an easy gentle, in places sharp (belay required), with short simple walls, heavily destroyed and snow-covered (cornices) 300–400-meter rocky Eastern ridge to the summit of Bodorku Zapadnuyu. From the Lychadskie ploschadki 3–4 hours.