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Report on the first ascent of the 4818 m peak via a Category 5B difficulty route.

Report

On the first ascent of the peak 4818 m (Peak Ostroy) via the route 5B cat. diff. by a team from Krasnoyarsk and Perm regions from August 4 to 5, 2021

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderPopova Marina Evgenievna, MS
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsDyupina Maria, MS, Oleneva Nadezhda, MS
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Description of the first ascent of the western wall of the peak 3800 m, complexity category IIIA, made by the sportsmen from PPC "Gornyak" in 1988.

  1. Summit — 3800 m, via the left part of the western wall.
  2. Proposed category of difficulty — IIIА, first ascent.
  3. Route length — 710 m.
  4. Length of sections: Category I — 20 m. Category II — 350 m. Category III — 260 m. Category IV — 80 m. Average steepness of the route — 45°. Average steepness of the wall section — 55°. Height difference — 430 m.
  5. Pitons hammered: Hook pitons — 9, chocks — 8
  6. Climbing hours — 10
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Description of a challenging climbing route on a wall with numerous traverses and complex technical sections.

1 American m — t, 2 m — t Solonnikovoy 5A, 3 m — t Yanushevicha 5B, 4 "Mer­esyev", IX — IX, A3

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Report on the first ascent via the center of the western wall of Peak Kyrkchilta, 4507 m, in the Karavshin gorge by a team from Sverdlovsk Oblast in 2015.

Report

Teams from Sverdlovsk Region

on the first ascent through the center of the western wall, to peak Kyrkchilta, 4507 m (Karavshin Valley) July 23–28, 2015

Climbing Passport

  1. Category — high-altitude and technical.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin Valley, 5.4.3.23a
  3. Peak Kyrkchilta, 4507 m, through the center of the W wall.
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, First Ascent.
  5. Route character — rock climbing.
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Traverse of peaks 4810 m, 4507 m, 4521 m, 4000 m, and 3800 m in the Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, category of complexity 6B.

I. Traverse Class. 2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley. 3. Traverse of peaks: 4810 m (ascent via the left part of the NW wall, first ascent, approximately 6B cat. diff.) — 4507 m (1000th anniversary of Baptism of Rus) — 4521 m (Kotin Peak) — 4000 m (Dukhtarak Peak) — 3800 m (Dukhtarcha Peak). 4. First ascent, approximately 6B cat. diff. 5. Average height of peaks on the traverse — 4320 m. Average height of cols between peaks on the traverse — 4000 m. Traverse length — approximately 8500 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff., not including rappelling — 2400 m. Rappelling down walls with 5–6 cat. diff. — 2240 m. 6. Pitons driven:

RockBoltsNutsSkyhook holes
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Report on the first ascent of Pik Breeze (4430 m) via the North-West Wall in Karavshin, complexity category 6B.

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude and technical class, 2023

Report

on the ascent to the summit of peak Breeze, 4430 m, via the internal corners of the northwest wall, 6B category of complexity, approximately. First ascent by the team from Krasnoyarsk from July 24, 2023, to July 25, 2023. 2023

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderProkofyev D.E. (MS)
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsPopova M.E. (MS)
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First ascent via the North-West wall of Pik Vektor (3716 m) in Altai, grade 6B, a rock climbing route with 900 m height difference.

11.69

Climbing Passport

  1. Region — Altai, Katunsky ridge, Miushtairy gorge
  2. Peak — Vector (3716 m), via the center of the NW wall
  3. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
  4. Route type — rock
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1200 m route length — 1515 m length of 6 category of difficulty sections — 600 m
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Report on the winter first ascent via the eastern edge of Nayramdal peak (4374 m) in Altai, made by Perm mountain club on March 14, 2001.

The address of the group leader: Perm, Druzhby st., house No. 16, apt. No. 58, postcode 614070. Tel.: (3422) 65-16-78. E-mail: otorten@ocpi.ru. In the "Format" menu, specify the following:

  • sent text
  • use encoding — Cyrillic KOI8-R Korolev A. Yu. All questions related to the ascent should be sent to this address. The heights indicated in the report were determined using contour lines on a topographic map with a scale of 1:200,000.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — winter.
  2. Ascent area — Altai, Mongolian Altai ridge.
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Report on the first ascent to the summit of Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, category 6B, completed by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai in 4 days in August 2019.

Russian Championship in Alpinism

Technical Class 2019

REPORT

on the ascent to Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, 6B category of complexity — first ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai. July 30, 2019–August 2, 2019.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderProkofyev D.E. (MS)
1.2Full name, sports rank of team membersPopova M.E. (MS), Matyushin N.O. (CMS)
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Description of the combined route 1Б category of complexity to the summit Bodorku Western from the south via the couloir and the Eastern ridge.

151. Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu from the south via the couloir and the Eastern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 20, 23). On the saddle (point 150) turn left and ascend via an easy gentle, in places sharp (belay required), with short simple walls, heavily destroyed and snow-covered (cornices) 300–400-meter rocky Eastern ridge to the summit of Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu. From the Ly­chad­skie plo­schad­ki 3–4 hours.

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