74. Mamison via North Buttress

(combined route, category III, 5A) In early morning, the plateau under the North wall should be crossed towards the saddle between the peaks of Mamison-khokh and Chanchakhi-khokh. After starting to ascend the large oblique snowfield, cross the depression in the area of the snow bridge, and come out onto a steep snowy slope, trying to stay closer to the rocks, using them as shelter from falling rocks. Having reached the oblique snowfield, one needs to move under the overhanging rocks. The oblique snowfield is a steep icy slope covered with a layer of snow. Belaying is done using rock pitons. Having passed to the right along the snowfield, at its end descend level with the lower ledge. The central snowfield is ascended straight up. The steepness requires maximum caution, as the snow is very loose and shallow. Having ascended the snowfield, move into the left couloir, where the snow merges with ice-filled sections, forming huge icy icicles. Having climbed 50–60 m along the rocks, turn down, bypassing the overhang, and again ascend up the 100-meter wall. When passing, it is necessary to exercise extreme caution, as there is a threat of collapse of the delaminated slabs. Belaying is done through pitons. Under the wall, there is an icy ledge on which a bivouac for 4 people can be arranged. From the bivouac site, the path goes along a vaguely defined inner angle to the southwest wall, from there, traversing left, reach a narrow couloir. It starts with wet, overhanging rocks. Further on, three rope lengths of rocks are somewhat easier. Then a long groove is overcome, a small, crumbly wall is attacked head-on, and finally, one reaches the snowy pre-summit ridge. From the summit, the descent is made along the path of category IV, 4A.

Ascents to Peak "3850" 3B cat. (in North Ossetia it is called Peak "3944"). The summit is located in the northern spur of the Lateral Ridge of the Caucasus. The spur branches off from Peak Spartak (4677 m) on the Kazbek firn plateau and includes the following peaks from south to north:

• Unnamed (Peak Ordzhonikidzevskaya Railway — 4007 m)
• Peak Iriston (4000 m)
• Chach-khokh (4100 m)
• Peak "3850"
• South Kaidzhani (3916 m)
• North Kaidzhani (3969 m) Climbers ascending the Kaidzhan–Chach-khokh traverse have twice reached the summit. In January 1959, D. Shevchuk's group ascended Peak "3850" as an independent ascent object from the east; however, the route from the east remained unclassified (approximately 1B cat.). The first ascent of the northern ice-rock rib of Peak "3850" was made by a group of climbers from the North Ossetian Sports Society "Spartak" under the leadership of T. Khakurinov on October 3, 1965. Following the pioneers, a group from the SO Council "Spartak" under the leadership of G. Eputaev ascended the route.

Chkalov Peak (local name — Anchobolameer), with a height of 4104 m, is located in the ridge of the Kad ridge — a northwestern spur of the Bogossky range. To the east of the summit rises Baydukov Peak (4081 m), to the west — Tsunkalata Peak (4084 m). The mountain is composed of black slate schist with sharp outcrops of dense crystalline sandstone. The northern spur of the mountain divides the Zigitli glaciers (to the west) and Belenge (to the east). The southern slope of the summit descends to the Osuka glacier. Along the northern spur of the mountain, a 2A category route is laid. The nearest peaks with laid routes are:

• Addala (1B, from Chakatly lake)
• Baydukov Peak (1B, along the ridge and 2A, from Belenge lake)
• Bochek (2B, traverse of three peaks)

Approach Description

From the camp located on the "Upper pasture" near Bichuga lake, go north along the foot of the "3900" mountain. Bypass the Osuka glacier icefall and go along the snow-covered transverse valley along the old right-bank moraine of the Osuka glacier to the point where it meets the southern slope of Chkalov Peak (alternative — up the center of the moraine). Then, a gentle ascent to the moraine ridge and exit to a flat area formed by the moraine and the slope of the Zigitli pass. This is the starting point of the route. From the camp — 2 hours.

25

Ascent Record

1. Climbing area: Kamchatka. Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes.
2. Name of the peak: Ploskaya Dalnaya — Ushkovsky 3943 m. Eastern slope.
3. Suggested category of difficulty — 2A.
4. Type of route: ice and snow.
5. Height difference: 1200 m.
6. Route length: 2.5 km.
7. Average steepness: 35°.
8. Moving time: 7 hours.
9. Number of days: 1 day.

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude class

2018

REPORT of the Rostov-Arkhangelsk region team on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the Borodkin route

Ascent Details

1. Region: 4. PAMIR 4.1. Academy of Sciences range (western side of Fedchenko glacier from Yazgulyam pass in the south to Muksu river in the north with all lateral spurs)

1. Climbing category — High-Altitude Technical
2. Climbing region — Trans-Alai Range, Dzhanam-Dartakai gorge, upper reaches of Korzhenevsky glacier.
3. Peak 5285, First ascent (proposed name: Chelyabinsk Peak) via North-Eastern ridge. Ice and snow.
4. Proposed category complexity — 3A.
5. Height difference ~ 760 m, average slope ~ 36°.
6. Pitons driven — 0.
7. Time on the route — 11 hours.
8. Number of overnight stays — none.
9. Retyunsky Yuri Dmitrievich — Master of Sports of the USSR — team leader
   1. Leontiev Vasily Viktorovich — Candidate Master of Sports

08.86 R5480 m 08.86 R5300 m 08.86 R1900 m 000 m 000 m 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000

between the rocks. The movement is alternating, with protection using rock ledges. In this place, the first rope team натянула перила for the rapid passage of the second rope team (I–I,5 ropes). The couloir is prone to rockfall. The rocks are heavily destroyed. Further:

• we come out onto steep and hard snow
• in the upper part, the couloir becomes steeper (25–30°)
• there are sections of not very firm ice The movement is alternating. We come out into a lowering of the ridge onto a snowy plateau. The ridge in this place practically merges with one of the plateaus in the southern part of the glacier. (2–2.5 hours) From the snowy plateau, the ascent directly up the ridge rocks is impossible due to the presence of a bergschrund at the start of the ascent, and the rocks are steep and icy with few handholds. Therefore, the group moved along the ridge across the snowy plateau and ascended a steep snowy slope (30–35°). The ascent is in three stages with alternating protection; the snow is loose and crumbly, and a deep trench remains behind the leader. The ascent goes in the direction of an ice mulda on the ridge (4–5 ropes, 1 hour). The further path goes directly along the ridge. The ridge in this place represents endless ascents of varying steepness with small gentle sections between them. In some places, snow lies in a thin layer on the ice. Protection is alternating; some sections are traversed on front points. One of the ascents ends with a steep ice wall (3–4 m), where piton protection and step chopping are required. Sometimes, under a shallow layer of snow, ice crevasses are encountered.

163. Lekzyr Malaya via North-West ridge (combined route, Cat. III, Fig. 24, 26). From the initial bivouac on the “Morena Lekzyr” sites (point 159) cross the Eastern branch of Lekzyr Glacier (closed crevasses) and ascend on its right side. Pass the lower part of the North-West ridge with gendarmes, turn right, cross the bergschrund, and ascend a steep snow-ice slope (streams) to the North-West ridge of Lekzyr Malaya summit. On the ridge, turn left and follow the icy-snowy North-West ridge (cornices) to approach the snow-covered rocky ascent. Ascend steep snow-covered rocks of the ascent (“live” stones, pitons) — 60–70 m up. Then 100–120 m along the edge of ice and rocks (cornices, belay), then: