1. Class: high-altitude technical.
2. Pamir, Khavraz-Dara valley.
3. Peak Kholodnaya стена (Cold Wall) via the center of the N wall.
4. Verba's Route, 6B category of difficulty, 1983.
5. Height difference: 1500 m. Distance: 1830 m. Distance of sections:

• 1st category of difficulty — 1175 m
• 6th category of difficulty — 395 m

6. Pitons hammered in:

Map of the area. After 1.5 hours, we approach the gap. In this location, the ridge drops sharply to the north; to the right, there is a steep, deep snowy slope, making a detour impossible (photo 7A). From the ridge, the height of the rocks before the gap is 4 m (photos 4, 5), and the depth of the gap is up to 60 m. The descent into the gap begins with a rope descent, sports style, from the upper part of the 8 m gendarme (organization of the descent in photo 6). Traverse along a snowy ledge under overhanging rocks for 5 m. Then, another 7-meter sports descent follows down a sheer wall with a negative two-meter section onto an inclined snowy platform (photo 6). Insurance is combined through ledges and one rock hook. The last participant descends both times on a double rope. The top is secured to available convenient and reliable ledges. Next is simultaneous movement across chaotically piled large boulders, and after 10 m, another sports descent follows down destroyed rocks with a steepness of 45°. Insurance is alternating, through ledges. Caution, loose rocks! The gap is the lowest section of the ridge – 2060 m. From the summit Обзорная to the gap, it takes 2.5 hours. From the gap, a steep, sharp ridge continues with cliffs on both sides (photo 7A). The rocks are of medium difficulty, местами разрушены. Insurance along the 200 m section of the ridge is alternating, 60 m of rope protection, one rock hook. The overall steepness of the 200-meter ridge section is up to 50°. Further, the ridge becomes gentler (photo 7A). A rocky ascent before the last ridge depression (photo 8) is bypassed on the right, below the ridge along snowy wide inclined ledges and destroyed easy rocks. Movement is simultaneous.

Passport

1. Rock climbing route.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Pik Vostochny Zvezdny, 2100 m. West wall.
4. Proposed — 4A cat. dif., first ascent.
5. Height difference: 250 m. length of sections with 4–5 cat. dif.: 50 m, average steepness of the route: 40°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons: 4, chocks: 31.
7. Total climbing hours: 15, days: 1.

Fig. 51

I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kisik-Alay ridge.
3. Brothers Kadomtsev peak via the central buttress of the NW wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B category, combined.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 620 m sections of 5–6 category difficulty: 420 m, average steepness: 68°
6. Number of pitons hammered, protection placed:
   • for belaying:

Alpine Federation of Russia

Report

on the ascent to Pять Pальцев (Funffingerspitzen, 2996 m) in the Dolomites (Italy) - traverse of the massif from East to West, category 3B difficulty, approximately, on August 16, 2010 Leader: Smirnov V.V. Participants: Penyaev I.N. Mikhailova I.V. Team Coach: Smirnov V.V. St. Petersburg 2010

Russian Alpine Federation

Moscow Alpine Championship 2012

Technical Class

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after A.S. Demchenko to the summit of Cerberus Gendarme 1341 m

via the south wall, Touchstone Wall route Presumably 6A category. The ascent was made by a team of two:

• N.E. Prilepskaya
• M.A. Nechaeva

To the Qualification Commission of the Russian Mountaineering Federation.

Report

On the ascent to the summit (volcano) Ojos del Salado — 6893 m via the North slope. Approximately 2A category of difficulty. A group of participants from the "Club 7 Summits" Group leader: Dusharin I.T. Coach: Abramov A.V.

Ascent Passport.

1. Type of ascent — technical
2. Ascent area — South America, Andes mountain system, Central Andean Plateau.
3. Ascent route — via the North slope (towards the Equator)

Fig. 30

Fig. 32