Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via North-Eastern wall (by Mogilevtsev's path), qualifying route
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m, average steepness 67°. Length of sections:

• 1st cat. diff. — 40 m
• 3rd cat. diff. — 300 m
• 4th cat. diff. — 375 m

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Kollektor Range, spur of the Alai Range.
3. Summit — Yubileynaya, 4860 m, right buttress of the S–3 wall, rocky.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1200 m average steepness — 45° length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 60 m
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Alai Range, Ulitor gorge
3. Peak — Bezymyanaya (4482 m), Central counterfort of the North-West wall, combined
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference from the bergschrund — 790 m, average steepness — 60°, route length — 950 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 410 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock cams ice screws | 43 | 20 | 8 | | :-: | :-: | :-: |

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alai, Kollektor Range 3. Peak — Georgievskaya (provisional name), height 4500 m, North Ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B 5. Route description — combined, height difference 500 m: section of 5th category difficulty — 40 m, average steepness — 45° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 0 ice — 15, bolt — 0, placement elements — 7 7. Number of walking hours: approach from DSE "Dugoba" to the route — 8 hours, route completed in 7 walking hours, descent from the summit via Chuteva - Pigou pass and return to DSE "Dugoba" — 8 hours 8. There were no overnight stays on the route.

Report

ON TRAVERSE P. "N" — P. Bykovsky with ascent via the eastern wall of the eastern ridge of P. "N", 4B cat. diff. (approximately). First ascent. 2nd: Bogomolov S. G., August 15, 1978 Krul V. N. ~650 m, ascent 50°, III–440, IV–80, V–40. asc. cr., 6.5 hours. July 1978

Map of the ascent area

Appendix No.2

Route Description

Climbing Mt. Begich (4473 m) via the Eastern Ridge, category 2B difficulty (tentative). From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow:

• Up the Kок-Су valley along a dirt road to the bridge
• Then across the bridge and along a trail on the right (orographically) bank of the Kок-Су river to the first left tributary
• Up the tributary, staying on its right side
• Then along a grassy ridge to the wall of the eastern ridge of the peak From the base camp — 3–4 hours. Further, 40 meters up the inner corner of the wall, then 40 meters up and to the right onto the eastern ridge. Protection is via pitons. After crossing the ridge, the movement continues along a wide snow depression to a narrow snow couloir and then an ascent to the pre-summit shoulder of the eastern ridge.

Climbing Route Description

to Begich Peak (4473 m) via Western Counterfort of the 10.3 ridge, category 3A (approx.). From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow, follow the trail along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Su River to the 2nd bridge (2 hours 30 minutes from the camp). Cross the bridge and ascend along the Shakhdara stream to the cirque under Kyz-Korgon Peak (4630 m), where you set up a bivouac (4 hours 30 minutes from the camp). From the bivouac, ascend along the left (in the direction of travel) stream to the glacier between the ridges of Begich and Kyz-Korgon Peaks. Traverse the glacier (in teams), bypassing the western ridge of Begich Peak, and exit to the upper cirque of the glacier. From the upper cirque, approach the reddish counterfort of the Southwest ridge, orienting towards the triangular wall formed on the left by a chimney and on the right by a snow-ice couloir. The journey from the bivouac takes 3 hours. Ascend to the triangular wall's summit, moving left-up along a ledge, then right-up through a cleft (40 m), and then along the ridge (40 m). Use piton belays. On the triangle's summit, there's a control cairn. From the cairn, ascend directly up a wide, steep (40°) scree couloir, then along rocky ridges, exiting under the base of the large reddish triangular wall (120 m). From here, move right, then directly up along the right rocky wall of a narrow snow-ice couloir, exiting onto the counterfort ridge (40 m). Use piton belays and natural features for protection. The journey from the start of the route takes 2 hours. Along the counterfort ridge, navigate through a series of short (3–4 m) rocky walls and inclined ledges, bypassing a large gendarme on the right (in the direction of travel), and exit onto the Southwest ridge of the peak, under the base of a rocky ascent (80 m).

PASSPORT

ASCENT TO Mt. Zub Begichi (4100 m) via the NE counterfort.

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Southern spurs of the Alayskiy ridge, Kok-Su valley.
3. Peak 4100 m, proposed name Zub Begichi.
4. Proposed category of difficulty 4B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference – 1100 m, length of sections:
     • 5th difficulty category – 120 m
     • 4th difficulty category – 260 m

ASCENSION DOCUMENT Technical Class of the Ascent Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge 3. P. Koltsova (4820) via the north face of the triangle 4. Category 5B difficulty 5. Route Characteristics: rocky height difference — 850 m, lengths of sections:

• Category 1 difficulty — none
• Category 2 difficulty — none

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m