Crimea, Paragilmen. "Through the Center of the Wall" Route 4A)

The route goes through the corners of the center of the wall, veering right in the upper third, leading to the "Shovel" summit. The route is significantly more challenging than the classic 3A route. It starts in the same place, but after the first corner, it doesn't go left, instead following the system of internal corners towards the cornice with a white spot underneath. "The Triple through the Chimney" 3A route - passage to the left; "Through the Center of the Wall" 3B (4A) route - passage to the right

Route Description:

0–1. Ascend sloping rocks to the left and enter an internal corner, then continue up the corner to a narrow chimney.

• Bypass the chimney by traversing to the right
• Then ascend
• Return to the left, into the system of corners (It's possible to go straight through the chimney, but it's significantly harder.) Continue up the corner to a ledge with a belay station. There are bolts and pitons. 43 m IV (10 m V)

Sokol – 12 y.o.

Ryжий угол (Red corner) 5A cat. diff. #26

R0–R2: 100 m, simple climbing straight up to the right (start as in "Galochka" mt.). R2–R3: 35 m, 5b+. Dangerous rope due to crumbling rock. Belay is relative. Station on a micro-shelf in the corner on a piton and a new bolt. R3–R4: 35 m, 6a+, A2. Difficult, overhanging rope. Protection on pitons and some own (big cams). In the upper part, loose rocks, be careful. Better to move left to a crack. Station on a ledge on bolts. R4–R5: 50 m, 5c. Hard climbing on quite crumbling terrain. Protection is difficult. Station on a half-lying tree on a ledge. R5–R6: 35 m. Easy traverse rightwards along the ledge towards "Galochka". Station on a tree. Then you can go in two ways:

• left through a "gully", towards "Grebnevaya dvojka" and then along it;
• continue rightwards along the ledge till the junction with "Galochka" route.

Equipment:

Rope 50–60 m, nuts, cams (big sizes mandatory), extenders, 1–3 ladders, 14–16 quickdraws, hammer, pitons.

General impressions:

Difficult 5A, requiring the ability to realistically assess the situation and organize belay properly. The skill level of "Pravyj Romb" (Right Rhombus) may be insufficient for this route. Climbing time for an average team is 5–6 hours

Sokol — 25

Bodun 5Б difficulty category (A. Sergeev, also known as "Kommunist") Bodun 1st rope R0–R1: 25–30 m, 6c, A2+. Even, interesting slabby artificial terrain with some 5c–6c climbing sections. The first few meters have a risk of falling onto the belayer from a considerable height. After the second bolt (third one), traverse right to a poorly visible piton, then go up, aiming for the left part of the cornice. The belay station is on two bolts. R1–R2: 25 — 30 m, 5B, A0. Re-clip through bolts and pitons up into the left corner of the cornice, then traverse right and up with your own protection. The belay station is on two bolts and a piton. R2–R3: 35 m, 5B. Up the overgrown crack, then move left across the slab 3–5 m to an internal corner. Protection is your own + bolts and pitons. The belay station is in the internal corner on two bolts and a piton. R3–R4: 50 m, 5B. Protection is on bolts and pitons + your own. The belay station is on a bolt and a piton in the internal corner. R4–R5: 30–35 m, 6A. The belay station is in the internal corner under an overhanging wall. R5–R6: 25 m, 6C.

• Through the overhang (two bolts)

On the right side of the «green corner», 5a (route by V. Timofeev, 1981)

The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and named Green due to the moss covering it. The route starts at the base of the couloir descending from the Green internal corner. From the alpinist camps, proceed about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner. From the road, start moving up the scree towards the steep wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, easy). On the section R1–R2 — overcome a small wall, move right along the ledge to the large internal corner, turning into a sheer chimney on the left side of the slab. Up the slab to the top of the outcrop:

Shaan-Kaya — 12. "Synthesis of Consciousness"

Massif: Shaan-Kaya (985 m) Complexity: 5B, VI, A1 Author: A. Geniush, Kudryavtsev Year of route creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 300 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours Total length of the route is 213 m, suggested complexity category is 5B. R0–R1 (42 m, A2, f 6b) — The route starts between the "Arsenal" and "Maximen" routes, among the ivy, a crack for anchors and medium-sized stoppers begins. Move up the crack towards a small pine tree, then tackle a slight overhang in its central part, where a crack leads under the small pine. After the tree, ascend 10 m on anchors and stoppers to reach the belay station, which is set on two anchors. R1–R2 (38 m, A2, f 6B) — From the station, shift 1 m left and upwards to a vertical crack, then move up through it towards an internal corner. The corner is well-passed using medium and large cams and stoppers. The corner leads to a narrow horizontal ledge that goes left. Traverse 6 m along the ledge; there are 2 anchors on the traverse. From the anchors, lower slightly to the station, which is set on 2 anchors. The traverse itself is not complicated and is relatively safe. R2–R3 (35 m, A3, f-7a) — The next pitch starts with a beautiful flake forming a small internal corner with the main wall. Ascend 8–10 m through this corner to a sloping ledge. From the sloping ledge, move through an overhang with a small internal corner to a large internal corner. On the overhang, there are 2 intermediate bolts:

• To the 1st anchor, ascend via the small internal corner on small, partially driven anchors.
• To reach the 2nd anchor, use large skyhooks (3 pcs.).

Sha­an-Ka­ya — 3

Author: Alex­ander Za­ko­lod­ny, Khark­ov.

2012 © — new route on Sha­an-Ka­ya, 6A

Sha­an-Ka­ya is that, lately: base jumpers, rope access... attracts unusual mountains. Long winter, r line on the summit, after which... goal of Grishchenko to me with visiting the museum since the times of Zenit. As a partner I g, helped me to dry. The route passes left. On the march pulls! In these rock climbers, these people... grief and around looked straight crack left, gi m-t. or, as later i shlyambura). l initiative and

Shaan-Kaya — 7

Author: Kirill Gostev, Yalta Shaan-Kaya, "Pianissimo" route (6B extra F6b/6c, A4, 280 m) The struggle with the mountain is a struggle with oneself; if you're a hero, your path isn't simple!!! Everything started cheerfully and enthusiastically, but gradually the exclamations of "Hooray!!!" on the prolonged overhang turned into a state that fully corresponds to the name of the route — "Pianissimo", only occasionally did falling boulders with a loud thud stir our consciousness. In general, everything turned out great. Thanks to our support group:

• Sergey Voshchanov,
• Alexander Rushkovsky (our altitude operator),
• Evgeny Meshkov. "The Guardian of Secrets" and chronicler of Shaan-Kaya's history, Yuri Borisovich Burlakov, periodically visited the mountain to observe us. During rare meetings with him, he wished us success and infected us with the same enthusiasm and fervor that, probably, accompanied the first conquerors of Shaan-Kaya, led by Yuri Borisovich.

Shaan-Kaya — 8. Hyperborea route (Yarechevsky Marunich)

In the mountains — climbing routes of Crimea The route passes through the right part of the South wall of Shaan-Kaya, in the upper part it goes left, to the center. A landmark can be a huge overhanging inner corner, visible even from the lower road. If you draw a line from the base of the corner, perpendicular to the foot, it will come to the start of the route. The route was started in the 1980s by Chaplyngsky and Samoded, but, having passed 150 m, they stopped (from this point it is possible to swing to the Grishchenko route). The route was completed by Vitaly Yarechevsky (Odessa) and Vladimir Marunich (Nikolaev). In 2000, they made a reconnaissance, passing the already passed section of the wall and strengthening the stations, and in November 2001 they completed the route, passing a 100-meter overhanging section, which, in my opinion, is the key one. The route was climbed with processing of the lower part and 2 overnight stays on the wall on a platform. The length of the route is 300 meters, of which overhanging sections are more than 200 meters, sometimes more than 100°. The complexity of climbing is VI+, ITO A3 (or more?). Some sections of ITO-climbing were passed by Vitaly Yarechevsky in free climbing, his assessment is F 6c–7a. The second ascent was made by Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko (Odessa), Alexander Mak­si­me­nya (Minsk) in February 2002. On a sunny February day, Sasha Maksimenya and I approached Shaan-Kaya. My time in Crimea was coming to an end, and I wanted to climb something unusual. There are two such routes on Shaan-Kaya:

• Shel­kha­kov — Po­po­v, 2001
• Hyperborea

Report on the Ascent to the Summit of Ay-Petri Eastern via the Eastern Part of the Wall on the Route "Prazdnik Neposlushaniya" 6A Category of Complexity by the Team from Mukhalatka Settlement from 14:00 on March 14, 2020, to 17:00 on March 15, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

Description of the ascent to peak Smidovich via the western counterfort

Group composition

1. Kovalevsky V.A. — II category — leader 2. Shklyaev E.V. — II category — participant 3. Kovalenko Yu.I. — II category — participant 4. Smoglyukov S.E. — II category — participant

First day (approach to the route) May 4, 1973

Departure from the base camp to lake KARDYVACH at 4:00 AM, upstream along the right bank (in the direction of travel) of the VERKHNYAYA MZYMTA river to a group of large boulders under the slopes of peak LAUB EASTERN. Then, upwards to the right along a wide snowy slope with rocky outcrops, exit to a shoulder under peak Severnaya Tsyndyshko (3–3.5 hours from the base camp to the shoulder). From the shoulder, leftwards to a sharp depression in the southwestern ridge of peak SMIDOVICH; CHERNORECHENSKY pass (1 hour). From the pass, descent along a steep snowy slope to the first rocky terrace near peak SMIDOVICH (1.5 hours descent).