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2. Ascent to the summit of Filtr via the northwestern edge Cat. 3B See the path to the bivouac in the description of the Cat. 2B route From the bivouac:

• along the stream on the right-upwards, under the rocks of the NW edge of Filtr peak;
• traverse the snowfield to the right-upwards and then along the slabs and "ram's foreheads" to the gorge (in rope teams!);
• from the gorge, exit to the snowy slope (35–40°) and along it to the rocky outcrop and beyond it along the snowy exit to the ridge. From here:
• left-upwards 330–350 m to the snowy couloir;
• bypass the couloir to the right-upwards via the rocks to a large slab (protection! Hook!);

Chyornye Bashni Peak — 3550 m

Traverse in both directions — category 3A From the Uzunkol alpine camp, follow the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. To the left of the stream, ascend to a large lateral step — "ice overnight stays". From here, ascend via a grassy couloir and then along a steep grey moraine to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. Cross the plateau to approach the slopes of the Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund (belay!), cross via a bridge closer to the slopes of Filtr Peak, and then continue up the snowy slope (150 m up to 45°, belay!) to a short scree slope and ascend to the pass. From the pass, descend south and cross the Zamok glacier plateau to approach the 1st terrace of the Chungur glacier from the left. With a slight gain in height, traverse to the middle part of the Chyornye Bashni glacier. Cross the glacier towards the buttress of the eastern peak. Ascend to the right of the icefall via a somewhat indistinct ridge (avoid the lower part of the buttress — rockfall!) and reach the plateau. From the Kichkinekol pass to the plateau — 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the eastern peak (rope teams!) begins from the plateau via the southeast ridge. Ascend via snow to a snowy saddle in the ridge and then upwards via slabs — belay! Rockfall! Reach the peak via a snowy slope to the right CORNICES!! From the plateau to the peak — 1–1.5 hours. Descend from the eastern peak to the right via a snowy ridge to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Here, set up a 25 m sport descent via the wall with a chimney. Belay! After descending to an inclined snowy ledge and along it to the right towards the ridge. Descend via a steep ridge — belay! — to the col between the eastern and western peaks. From the eastern peak to the col — 3–3.5 hours.

2.3.123 119

Chugur-Bashi Peak

Ascent from the saddle between Chugur-Jar peak and Chugur-Bashi peak along the western ridge, category 2B. From "Uzunkol" alpine camp along the left bank of the Kichkinekol river to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. Along the stream (trail) ascend to a side green terrace and further exit to the upper part of old "ram's foreheads" and along the left gray moraine (trail) – exit to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. From the alpine camp to the plateau — 3–3.5 hours. Across the plateau towards the slopes of Kichkinekol pass and up to the bergschrund, keeping closer to the slopes of Filtr peak. Cross the bergschrund via a bridge (belay!) and ascend 120 m along the snowy slope up to 40°. Ascend to a snow step and through it exit to Kichkinekol pass. From the plateau to the pass — 1.5–2 hours. From the pass descend to the Zamok glacier plateau and left, circumventing along the foot of Kichkinekol peak and Chugur-Jar peak and, not reaching the icefall, exit to the slopes of Chugur-Jar and along them – to the saddle towards Chugur-Bashi. From Kichkinekol pass — 1.5–2 hours.

Route Description

There are separate descriptions and diagrams for all the peaks included in the traverse (see routes):

• "Chungur-Jar from Chungur Pass" (77)
• "Chungur-Jar via the eastern ridge" (78)
• "Chungur-bashi via the western ridge" (79) The description and diagram for "Chungur-Jar via the eastern ridge" (78) should be read in reverse when traversing. On the saddle to the left, there are large snow cornices! After ascending to the summit of Chungur-bashi ("Chungur-bashi via the western ridge"), the descent from it towards the saddle to the peak of Kanny-kaya proceeds mostly to the right of the ridge line: along simple broken rocks, ledges, and slabs. The descent to the saddle takes 1.5 hours. The ascent to the summit of Kanny-kaya is similar in terrain character to the descent from Chungur-bashi to the saddle: moving along broken rocks, bypassing small gendarmes to the right along ledges. If the ledges are covered with snow, the gendarmes are passed "head-on," which will increase the ascent time to the summit by one hour. In the gaps between the gendarmes, there are snow cornices at the beginning of summer! From the saddle to the summit: 2.5 hours.

Fig. 28

249. Bashil via the Northwest Ridge (I. Kunaev's combined route, category III, fig. 18, 28).

The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the snowy plateau of the Eastern branch of the glacier below the Bashil pass is described in route 247. Here, turn left and, passing the icefall, exit into the Southeast cirque of the Eastern branch of the Lekzyr glacier and approach the right side of the Lekzyr pass. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy slope, and then via simple rocks to the right side of the Lekzyr pass saddle. On the saddle, turn right and exit onto the Northwest ridge of Bashil peak. Along the route:

• Ascend steep rocks to reach the ice-snow slope with rock outcrops
• Along the slope, then via steep simple and occasionally moderately difficult rocks of the long Northwest ridge, reach the first pinnacle
• Descend from the pinnacle to the col
• Further, via steep snowy rocks with short moderately difficult walls (piton protection), ascend to the summit tower
• Via moderately difficult rocks ("live" stones, piton protection) of the first, then the second wall, ascend to the summit of Bashil From the Lekzyr pass, 5-6 hours.

236. Bodorку East via Southwest by the couloir and West ridge (combined route, 2A cat. of difficulty, fig. 18, 28). The path from the Chetem tourist base (a group of 4–8 people) to the Tiber pass is described in route 235. From the pass, descend along the scree, then along the snowy couloir to the Lyчат glacier and, turning right, approach its right side (closed crevasses) under the wide snowy couloir descending from the saddle of the Bodorку massif, located between its peaks. The initial bivouac is on the plateau. From the Bashil tourist base, ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Bashil river. Having passed the canyon, along a wide green terrace high above the river, exit to the marshy meadows, beyond them - across the fields, through a small grove - to the moraine deposits and along them approach the tongue of the Bashil glacier.

• Bypass the tongue from the left and exit onto the glacier along the moraines.
• Further along the left side of the flat glacier, approach the roches moutonnées at the first stage of the icefall.
• Bypass the first stage of the icefall from the left along steep scree and roches moutonnées and exit to the sites at the end of the left-bank moraine. From the Bashil tourist base - 4–5 hours. Descend from the moraine to the right onto the glacier and ascend along the left side of its eastern branch, then turn right and cross it (closed crevasses) in the direction of the Lyчат pass, located in the Main Caucasian Range between the Lyчат peak on the right and Bodorку on the left. From the Bashil tourist base - 7–8 hours. From the glacier, having passed along the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend along a gentle, heavily crevassed ice-and-snow slope to the Lyчат pass. From the pass:

152. Bo­dorku Za­pad­na­ya via Za­pad­ny ridge (com­bined route, cat. 1B diff., fig. 20, 23). From Ly­chat­skie plos­chad­ki (climb 148) on the left side of Ly­chat glacier (closed cre­vasses) ap­proach Ly­chat pas­sage. From the glacier, via snow, then scree slope, fur­ther via badly dam­aged wet rocks of steep nar­row couloir as­cend to Ly­chat pas­sage, then turn right and reach Za­pad­ny ridge of Bo­dorku Za­pad­na­ya. From here, 400–500 m up­wards via easy dam­aged rocks with short sim­ple over­com­ing en route gen­darmes and rises, by­pass­ing more dif­fi­cult sec­tions via ice-snow slopes on the left. And via steep ice-snow (closed cre­vasses, cor­niche) slope of Za­pad­ny ridge as­cend to the sum­mit of Bo­dorku