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Description of the first ascent to the summit of Aklangam (6978/7004 m) in the Kongur Tagh range along the SW edge of the SE ridge, category 4B.

11.3.8

1. ROUTE PASSPORT
1RegionKongur Muztagh Range
2ValleyKarakul Lake
3Number of section according to the classification table
1999 year
4Name of the peakAklangam
5Name of the routevia SW edge of SE ridge
6Route difficulty assessment4B cat. diff.First ascent
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Description of the first ascent via the south-west ridge of Peak Koskulak (7028 m) in the Muztagata massif, made by a group of Russian climbers in 2005.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table (2001) – 11.3 Mountain region of Kunlun (China, Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region), Muztagata massif, Kalakhong glacier.
  2. Name of the peak: Peak Koskulak, 7028 m, route name: via SW ridge.
  3. Category of difficulty: 5A category, approximately; first ascent
  4. Nature of the route — snow-ice
  5. Height difference of the route: 2100 m (according to map, altimeter, and GPS); route length – 6025 m; length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 210 m;
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An account of the first ascent of Peak Nikolaev (5975m) in the Kongur Muztagh range, made in 2003 by a team of Russian climbers led by Andrey Lebedev.

1. ASCENT DOCUMENT
1RegionKongur Muztagh Range
2ValleyChimgan
3Section number according to the classification table of 199911.3
4Name of the summitPeak Nikolaeva
5Route nameAlong the southern edge to peak 5435 and along the eastern ridge
6Route difficulty assessment5B
7Route characterCombined
8Height difference along the route1395 mBy altimeter
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First ascent via the center of the West Face of Bhagirathi III (6454 m) in the Himalayas, India, cat. 6B.

Ascent Log

  1. Category: High-altitude climb
  2. Garhwal Himalayas, India.
  3. Bhagirathi III (6454 m) via the center of the West Face, Russian route.
  4. Proposed grade: 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
  5. Height difference: 1500 m (wall: 1040 m); distance: 1800 m (wall: 1110 m). Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 250 m; 6th cat. diff.: 860 m. Average steepness of the wall: 83°.
  6. Number of pitons used: ice pitons rock pitons hooked pitons sky-hooks 23 293/210 165/136 57/11 34
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Report on the ascent made by the team from the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing to Talai Sagar peak (6,904 m) via the buttress of the North face.

2016 Russian Mountaineering Championship

High Altitude Category

Report on the ascent of the Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation team to Thalay Sagar (6904 m) Via the counterfort of the North Face, "Moveable Feast" — first ascent, approximately 6B category difficulty. Senior coach: E.V. Kuznetsova Team leader: S.A. Nilov

Thalay Sagar (6904 m) via the counterfort of the North Face "Moveable Feast"

Ascent Details

  1. Ascent category: high altitude
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Description of the first ascent of a combined route of category 6A on the Sablya peak (1497 m) in the Subpolar Urals.

Ascent Passport

  1. Subpolar Urals, Sablinsky ridge, section 8.3.
  2. SABLYA peak (1497 m), right part of the central NE wall.
  3. Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Height difference: 850 m, route length: 1010 m. Length of sections:
  • 5th category of difficulty – 270 m.
  • 6th category of difficulty – 140 m. Average steepness:
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Description of 1Бz category route to the summit of Yuzhnyy Yov (1311 m) via the couloir in the northern part of Yov's failure in the Konzhakovsky massif in the North Ural Mountains.

Ascent Passport

1 Northern Urals, Konzhakovsky massif. 2 Yuzhnyy (South) Iov 1311 m — via the N couloir of the slope of Iovskiy breach. 3 Proposed: 1Bz cat. dif., first ascent. 4 Route type: combined. 5 Height difference (by GPS) of the route: 460 m. Route length: 1900 m. Length of sections with III cat. dif.: 150 m. Length of sections with II cat. dif.: 100 m. Steepness of the main part of the route: 45°, on some sections up to 60°. 6 Number of "hooks" left on the route: none. Ice screws used: 2, snow stakes: 4, slings: 4 — all for organizing belays. 7 Departure from the "Serebryansky Kamen" tourist base on March 11, 2014 at 07:50. Departure to the route: March 13, 2014 at 09:45. On the summit: March 13, 2014, 12:55. Descent from the summit to the bivouac (via the central couloir of Iovskiy breach): March 13, 2014, 15:15. Return to the "Serebryansky Kamen" base: March 13, 2014, 22:15.

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Description of the first ascent of a combined route of 3B category of complexity to the summit of Maly Vudyavrchorr in the Khibiny Mountains.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

note 105 10/11-92, clause 18 for 3B category Zazetaev

  1. Ascent class — combined
  2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains.
  3. Peak, its height, and route — Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; from the "Avalanche" couloir to the I buttress of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; 1068.2 m.
  4. Anticipated difficulty category — 3B category.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Length of sections by category:
    • wall II — 500 m
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Description of the geographical area, approach to the route, and ascent to the summit of Agepsta Main via a new Category IIIB route.

Geographic Overview of the Area

The AGEPSTA massif is a standalone ridge with the dominant peak GLAVNAYA AGEPSTA (3261 m), dropping off to the north with walls up to 80 ° steep and a height difference of 1000 m. It is located on the border between Krasnodar Krai and the Georgian SSR. It is bounded to the west by the Aibga ridge and the Turii mountains, to the east by the Atskentsi ridge, to the north by the Mzymta River, and to the south by the Gegra River. From a geographical point of view, the AGEPSTA massif is part of the Southern Front Ridge. It stretches parallel to the Main Caucasian Ridge between the upper reaches of the Tikhaia and Agepsta rivers. It is 10 km long, with heights ranging from 2800 to 3200 m, and is composed of marl, conglomerates, limestones, diorites, tuffs, and other rocks from the marine and Cretaceous periods. Glacial landforms are well-developed:

  • cirques;
  • karst formations;
  • glaciers (the largest being Khyms-Aneke) cover about 5 sq. km. The lower slopes feature mountain meadow vegetation, beech and beech-deciduous forests, rhododendron, and plenty of berries such as currants, blueberries, and bilberries. High precipitation (up to 6 m of snow in some years) and a sharp temperature scale contribute to the breakdown of rocks.
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Traversing the "Lafb" massif from east to west, category 2B, includes passing 4 gendarmes and the summit along crumbling granite rocks and snowy-icy sections.

2.1.25

Description

Traversing the "Laub" massif from east to west, category 2B difficulty. Height — 2900 m. (Photo № 2) From the base camp at "Kardyvach" lake, the path to the saddle of the Main ridge of "Laub" peak goes along the trail to the snow cone protruding from the couloir. We cross the snow cone from right to left and ascend to the steep grassy slopes covered with dense snow. Having reached the oval ridge, we continue moving straight north along it, in the direction of the visible couloir, which leads to the saddle — the beginning of the traverse. The path along the snowy oval ridge is straightforward and takes 1 hour 30 minutes to reach the couloir. Couloir:

  • Completely covered with snow, with ice patches in some areas;
  • Pressing to the left side, we use an ice axe for belay;
  • On the way, there are small protruding rock outcrops, which are passed directly — the rocks are straightforward;
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