54 17

Ascent

To the peak of Zelinsky via the eastern counterfort of the northern ridge (approximately route 4A category of difficulty). Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition. Group leader — A.A. Parshennikov. 2. V.S. Bunyaeva. 3. N.A. Kuznetsov. 4. L.I. Salmashkov. 1000 m, 50°, 18 rock pitches, 16 hours.

INTRODUCTION

ASCENT CERTIFICATE. №1

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the Western couloir from Pravyy Aktru glacier.
3. Proposed category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is combined.
5. The route's height difference is 800 m, the route length is 2500 m, the average steepness of the main part is 45°, and the overall route is 25°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice screws — 2.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. Leader Khilko V. CMS Team members:

Ascent

The ascent to v. Krasavitsa via the northern wall (approximately 3A category of difficulty) was made by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition. GROUP COMPOSITION

1. Kuznetsov N. A. 2nd sports category
2. Bondarchuk N. M. Master of Sports
3. Luzhetsky B. N. Master of Sports
4. Makeev V. P. CMS
5. Morgachev V. N. 1st sports category
6. Fedorov V. A. 1st sports category Group Leader: KUZNETSOV N. A.

Ascent Passport

1 Region — Altai Republic, North Chuya Range 2 Peak — Kyzyltash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall 3 Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent. 4 Route characteristics — ice and snow. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain of the main part 480 m, route length — 740 m. length of sections

• 5th category of difficulty — 110 m.
• 4th category of difficulty — 190 m average steepness of the main part 55°

6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 74

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REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN THE CLASS OF "TECHNICALLY COMPLEX" CLIMBS Peak MaaShey-Bash via the northwest wall. Altai. (5B + 1 - approximately) Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the Soviet State. Team of the Leningrad City Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the RSFSR. 1967.

1. Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the climb object.

Peak MaaShey-Bash (4200 m) is the highest point of the North-Chuya mountain node ("Bish-Murdu"), one of the most picturesque regions of Mountainous Altai. The node is formed by the North-Chuya ridge, stretching in a latitudinal direction between the rivers Chuya to the north, Karagem and Chegan-Uzun to the south. The MaaShey-Bash massif is located in the western part of the ridge. Its northern slopes give rise to the MaaShey glacier, the second longest in Altai (10 km). The MaaShey-Yul river flows out of the glacier and runs north until it meets the Chuya. To the east of MaaShey, the North-Chuya ridge is composed of the peaks Karagem, Bars, Tamma, Burvestnik, UPI, and Snezhnaya. The northern spur of the ridge at peak Burvestnik separates the MaaShey and Ak-Tru glaciers. MaaShey-Bash drops to the north with severe walls that capture the attention of climbers. The classified route (4B) to the summit follows the northern ridge, which separates the Left and Central MaaShey glaciers. Routes on the northeast wall (snow and ice, with small rocky outcrops) are objectively hazardous due to the hanging snow cornices above. Their formation is likely facilitated by heavy precipitation and strong southwest winds this year.

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Ascent Passport

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
2. peak Nadezhda, from Maashey cirque via col Nadezhda
3. proposed route 3A cat. diff., presumably first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain — 633 m. Route length — 2040 m. Section lengths: | | | |

Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Maasheyskoe gorge, 1.2
2. Obzornaya via the northern slope. Height 3150
3. Proposed category 1B (route previously climbed)
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference 300 m. Route length 860 m. Average steepness of the main part 26°, total route 21°.
6. Pitons used: not used.
7. Climbing hours — 4.5 (from foot to summit).
8. Leader: A. Drakin — Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: N. Astafurova — 3rd sports category, V.

As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate №1 Re­gion — Re­pub­lic of Al­tai, Se­ver­no-Chuйsky ridge Moun­tain — Snezhnaya 3800 m via the cen­ter of the north­west slope Sup­posed — CA cat. dif., first as­cent. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route — ice and snow. 5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route: dif­fe­rence in height of the main part 540 m, length of the route — 870 m. Length of sec­tions 4 cat. dif. — 340 m, 3 cat. dif. — 360 m, 2 cat. dif. — 170 m. Av­er­age steep­ness of the main part — 45° 6. Used on the route: ice screws — 80 7. Num­ber of mov­ing hours — 7, days — 1. 8. Leader: Iv­liev An­drey Vla­di­mi­ro­vich 1st sports rank

The summit of Spasatel via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, 1.2

Passport

1. Category: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Spasatel peak, via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel, ice-snow.
4. Proposed — category 3B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 420 m; length — 730 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty — 10–15 m. Average steepness of the route — 30–35°.

ASCENT

To v. SHAVLA-12 from the Abul-Orek pass (approximately 36 km tr.). Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition.

Group Composition

1. Bunyaeva V.S. 2nd sports category
2. Kuznetsov N.A. 2nd sports category
3. Achkasov Yu.I. MS
4. Parshennikov A.A. 2nd sports category
5. Sannikov A.I. 2nd sports category Group Leader: BUNYAEVA V.S.

Route Description