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Route Description: левому бастиону СВ стены
Description of the 6A category complexity route to the Sablya summit via the left bastion of the north-eastern wall in the Polar Urals, climbed by a team of climbers in 2004.
Passport
- Subpolar Urals, 8.3 (section number according to the 1999 classifier)
- Peak name: Sablya; route name: via the left bastion of the NE wall
- Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent
- Route type: combined
- Route elevation gain: 700 m (by altimeter) Route length: 750 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 310 m, 6th category of difficulty: 200 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 79°, of the entire route: 73°
- Pitons left on the route:
total 30; including bolted: 30. Pitons used on the route:
- chocks: 248, including for ITO: 213
Route Description: левому ребру В стены
Description of a combined route, category 3А, to Mt. Maly Vudyavrchorr via L-spur of W-wall of Mt. Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr in Khibiny mountains.
Climbing Passport
I. Climbing category - combined. 2. Climbing area - Khibiny Mountains 3. Peak, its height, and route - Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr, via the Left Edge of the Eastern wall of Mt. Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr; 1068.2 m. 4. Expected difficulty category - 3A cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 750 m. Length of sections: 1 - 120 m 2 - 450 m 3 - 100 m
Route Description: на «Откол» по центру С стены
Report on the ascent of the Murmansk region team to the Takhtarvumchorr mountain ridge via the "Otkol" route in the center of the northern wall, category 5A.
RPO "Mountaineering Federation of Murmansk Region" Championship of the Northwestern Federal District in mountaineering, technical class
Report
On the ascent of the Murmansk Region team to Takhtarvumchorr ridge, Southern peak to "Otcol" via the center of the northern wall, Afanasiev V.Yu., 2004 - 5A cat. diff.
Team Leader
Druzhkin Andrey Sergeevich
Participant
Fedorishin Alexey Leonidovich
Coach
Kurdiy Alla Andreevna
Route Description: центру стены поясов
Report on the third ascent of the "Through the center of the belt wall" route, category 5B, on the Takhtarvumchorr ridge in the Khibiny Mountains.
Report
On the ascent of the Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via the center of the Belts Wall. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B. For classification. (First ascent: Andreev A.B., 2004) Khibiny mountain range, Takhtarvumchorr ridge, Classification table section number: 8.6. Team coaches:
- Kurdiy A.A.
- Pochivalov S.S. Team leader: Druzhkin A.S.
Route Description: Перья
The ascent to Ai-Petri via "Feathers" is 5A cat. diff., 600 m long, takes 7 hrs, and requires piton belay and traversing of challenging rock sections.
Ai-Petri (Main Peak) via "Feathers" 5A cat.
The wall faces southeast with a 500-meter cliff and is located in the center of the Ai-Petri massif. The route requires:
- vertical pitons
- horizontal pitons
- U-shaped pitons
- ice pitons R0–R1: From the Khosta-Bash clearing, approach the base of Ai-Petri and move along the talus to a large inclined rock shelf 40 m wide and 40–45 m long. The route begins from this shelf. 1–2. Ascend easy rocks to the base of a chimney. For the first 40 meters, the chimney is very narrow, so it is recommended to ascend without a backpack. Organize belays in the widening part of the chimney. The rocks are difficult. The next 40 meters are ascended:
- on tensioned limbs
Route Description: Законодателя
Report on the first ascent of the "Lawmaker" route, category 6A, to the summit of Ai-Petri East via the eastern part of the wall.
Report on the First Ascent to the summit of Ai-Petri Eastern via the eastern part of the wall on the route ("Zakonoobrazovatel's") 6A category of complexity by the team from Muhalatka for the period from 20.07.2019 to 20.07.2019.
I. Climbing Report Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Lisin Alexander Alexandrovich, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Vlasenko Alexey Sergeevich — no rank, Umnov Anton Sergeevich — no rank, Lisin Alexander Alexandrovich — CMS |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Kruglov Yuri Igorevich — MS |
Route Description: Легкий флирт
Description of a new alpine route "Easy Flirt" of the VI category of complexity to the summit of *Merdven-Kayasy* in Crimea, climbed in a classical bottom-to-top style.
Merdven-Kayas — 9. "Easy Flirt"* — 385 m, VI, A3+, F6c, E4. Description
August 5, 2013
The route was ascended in a classic style, from bottom to top, without prior reconnaissance or processing from the top.
The thread of the "Easy Flirt" route is indicated in white.
Massif: Merdven-Kayas. This is one of the few massifs of great length in Crimea where there are still unclimbed main logical lines.
- Route length: 385 m
- Maximum complexity of free climbing sections: F6c, E4
- Maximum complexity of artificial climbing sections: A3(+)
Route Description: Мачомбо
The new route "Machombo" (6A, VI, A3, 335 m) on Morcheka, first ascent by Alexander Lavrynenko and Vladimir Mogila in January 2002.
Morcheka — 13
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko («Odessit»), Odessa «Machombo» (6А, VI, A3, 335 m)
or Morcheka 2002
At the end of January, Volodya Mogila and I completed the route through the center of Morcheka that we had started at the end of November. In November, bad weather and various life difficulties hindered our plans, and we were only able to return under the mountain on January 15.
The idea of the route underwent changes during the preparation for the ascent:
- The initial plan was to follow the Bodnik route, taking a shortcut through a monolithic, overhanging slab («belly») in its lower part.
- Then we decided to try to straighten out the 2nd rope of the route.
- After completing the 1st rope according to Bodnik, we decided that the route should have its own beginning, and we managed to achieve that too.
- An independent exit to the summit was a natural progression.
Route Description: По правому контрфорсу ЮВ стены
Description of the 2Б route to the Paragelmeng peak via the right counterfort of the central wall, indicating the starting options and necessary technical means.
Paraghelmen — 7
List of routes to the summit Paraghelmen:
- Paraghelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and the spur 1B, II
- Paraghelmen via the left spur of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
- Paraghelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
- Paraghelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
- Paraghelmen via the right spur of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraghelmen via SE edge and the center of the wall 3B, V
Route 5
Route Description: По левой части ЮВ стены
Description of the 3Б, V, A1 route to the top of Paragelmen in Crimea with detailed information on the passage and necessary equipment.
Paraghelmen — 3
List of Routes to the Summit of Paraghelmen:
- Paraghelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and the counterfort 1B, II
- Paraghelmen via the left counterfort of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
- Paraghelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
- Paraghelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
- Paraghelmen via the right counterfort of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraghelmen via SE edge and the center of the wall 3B, V