Report on the Ascent of Donguz-Orun via the North Face

Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

The peak Donguz-Orun (4,452 meters above sea level) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, between the Donguz-Orun pass and the Becho pass. To the west of Donguz-Orun lies the peak Nakra-Tau, essentially serving as a shoulder of Donguz-Orun. Donguz-Orun, like Elbrus to its north, is characterized by significant glaciation. All three peaks of Donguz-Orun are covered by a powerful glacier, reaching thicknesses of 120–150 meters. On the southern side, towards the Nakra valley, this glacier has natural, gentle slopes. However, on the north, northwest, and northeast, due to the steepness of the slopes forming the walls, the summit glacial shield breaks off with sheer drops. The ice is expended in these directions through ice avalanches, making the northern walls of Donguz-Orun highly dangerous to traverse. The glacier on the peaks of Donguz-Orun is often referred to as the ice "cap" or simply "cap". The peaks of Donguz-Orun have been visited by climbers multiple times, with several ascent variations available. The most well-known route is the ascent via the northern ridge (4A category of difficulty), which is traversed annually by many climbing groups. Furthermore, ascending Donguz-Orun from the west, along gentle ice and snow slopes (2B category of difficulty), is quite common. This route is also typically used for descending from the summit after ascending via the northern ridge. Notably less frequent are ascents via two other routes:

Ascent Passport

1. Technical climbing category.
2. Region 2.4, Caucasus, from Chiperezau pass to Gumači peak, Elbrus southwest spur.
3. Kyukyurtlyu (Kyukyurtlyu–Kolbashi), 4639 m, point 107, T. Lukashvili route 1981, via the center of the NW wall.
4. Rock route.
5. 6B category of difficulty, seventh ascent.
6. Route characteristics:
   • Route elevation gain — 590 m,
   • Route length — 845 m,
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 310 m,

Peak Profsoyuzov!

PRK Profsoyuzov.

Cat. diff. 2B.

Summit elevation 2050 m.

The summit is located in the Main Caucasian Range, on the same ridge as the peaks Pkhola-Tau. Near the peak Profsoyuzov are located the following peaks:

• to the southeast — Pkhola-Tau
• to the northwest — Psentiba-shi
• a nameless peak above the Akh-Tsu pass

Ascent Certificate

1. Class: winter
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Prielbrusye
3. Ushba North via Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty: 6A
5. Route characteristics:
6. Elevation gain: 1700 m (by altimeter)
7. Route length: 2550 m
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1370 m
   • Average steepness: main part of the route — 56°, entire route (from bivouacs) — 48°

Report

of the Tashgorsportkomitet team on the ascent of Mt. Chatyn (main) 4368 m via the "diamond" of the northern wall (variant along the edge) UzSSR, Tashkent 1981

Profile of the wall section of the route

Orography and brief history of exploration

Mt. Chatyn is located in a spur of the Main Caucasus Range, branching off between the peaks of Malaya Ushba and Shchurovsky. The spur is a sharp rocky-ice (snow) ridge, with three distinct peaks: Western, Main, and Eastern Chatyn. The Western peak was first conquered in 1912 by Golubev via a relatively easy route from the Ushba plateau. The exploration of Chatyn's wall began only in 1952. B.A. Garf's group passed a route through the Northern wall. In 1954, I.P. Leonov's group traversed the peaks Chatyn-Ushba-Mazeri, ascending via a steep counterfort of the Northern wall. In 1957, I.V. Solodueva's group traversed the eastern edge of the massif. It wasn't until 1959 that the "diamond" of the Northern wall was conquered - a huge black rocky overhang beneath the Main peak. Two teams - A. Snesarev's and L. Myshlyaev's - after a multi-day assault, established two routes of the highest category on Chatyn. To date, five routes have been passed through the "diamond" of the Northern wall (I. Chernoslivin, 1965, I. Bolizhevsky, 1969, V. Krakovich, 1972, in addition to the two mentioned above), the technical difficulty of which is undeniable, as proven by time.

Conditions of the ascent to Mt. Chatyn via the "diamond" of the Northern wall (variant along the edge)

Ascent

TO THE 3RD WESTERN SHKHELDA-TAU

Via the Northern Wall

The group consisted of:

• Koptev V. - leader
• Minin Yu. - participant
• Aleksashin L. - participant
• Bozhukov V. - participant MOSCOW 1960

Brief Characteristics of the Ascent Object

2.11.11

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: first ascent.
2. Area: East Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, south of Shahdag and Erydag peaks.
3. Peak: Tfan, 4191 m, via the south ridge, combined.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 1B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain from Kutkashen town (1000 m) is 3200 m, from the base camp at Gotur pass (3150 m) is 1040 m, average slope is 20°, about 400 m at 35–45°, category 1B — about 300 m, category 2A — 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: 2/0, 6 pieces required for a team.

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.