Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — high-altitude
2. Climbing area, ridge — Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk ridge
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the southern wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B
5. Route characteristics:
   1. height difference — 2800 m
   2. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 1200 m
   3. average steepness of the lower part — 55° average steepness of the wall section — 85°

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range.
3. Peak — Peak "E. Korzhenevskoi" 7105 m, via the South Ridge from Moskvin Glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200–7105 m, section length 5 km – 60 m, average steepness of the route 42°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying SK-16, ice screws 2, for creating anchor points — 2 pieces.
7. Total climbing hours — 26 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs — three, two bivouacs were set up on the ridge by cutting part of the snowy ridge and laying out stone platforms.
9. Team

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — High-altitude
2. Ascent area, ridge — Akademii Nauk Ridge, Central Pamir
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Rossiya 6852 m via the Bastion on the SE wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics:
   1. Height difference — 2050 m, Bastion height difference — 1150 m, "lap" — 800 m
   2. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1460 m
   3. Average steepness of the "lap" — 55°, average steepness of the Bastion — 75–80°, average steepness of the route — 70°
6. Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 236, ice — 7, "chocks" — 40; for creating Intermediate Technical Objects (ITO) — 10

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Northwest Pamir, Walter Glacier
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: West wall of Peak Klara Zetkin, 6680 m.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2280 m, average steepness 73°, length of complex section 834 m
5. Number of pitons: rock 253 ice 13, expansion bolts 2
6. Number of travel hours: 83 h
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: seven (five semi-reclining, two reclining).

Route Description

to the summit of Peak named after the newspaper "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy" (6042 m) via the western counterfort. The group consisted of 8 people:

1. Kokorev V.I. — leader
2. Milko V.B. — participant
3. Rozhalskaya G.K. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
4. Tumovich S.D. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
5. Shturma G.V. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
6. Shalygin A.A. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
7. Braverman V.L. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"

of tires and giant snow cornices. The ridge is initially sharp with cornices on the NE side.

• Two rocky jandarmas are passed with piton belay.
• The last three ropes of ascent to the 5280 m summit are very steep.
• The exit to the 5280 m summit is through a 1–1.5 m snow cornice. The route from the 5280 m summit goes northeast along the ridge. The first section of the path (250 m) is along the ridge with several cornices hanging to the southeast, and the northwest side of the ridge is a sheer ice drop. Further, the ridge abruptly breaks off with a 30–40 meter wall 5–7 meters wide. At this section, it is advisable to use a handrail. Further, several cornices are passed, behind which is a fairly large mulda where a bivouac can be organized (our group dug a cave here). After the mulda, the ridge narrows again. Having passed several steep ascents and sharp descents with large cornices, a jandarma is encountered (a very narrow, jagged ridge, 100–120 m long), its left side (along the route) breaks off with rocky walls, and the right side is ice drops with cornices. The passage of this section must be with thorough belay. Beyond the jandarma is a sheer ice descent for two ropes. The further path goes along the ridge with steep ascents and descents up to 60–70°. Cornices are located on the right side, all the way to the summit. The entire route (ridge) must be traversed, staying on the left side along the route, except for the jandarma. Before the pre-summit ascent, there is a fairly large mulda (platform) where a bivouac can be organized (by digging a cave). The ascent to the summit along the pre-summit slope is steep (55–60°) to the right of the mulda and to the right of the jandarma, resembling Ushba in its outline. The first 40–50 m are very deep snow, then you need to go left along the firm firn, after 1.5–2 hours.

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1981

High-altitude technical class

Shakhdarin Range — Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) via the center of the western wall (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR

Leader: V.I. Lavrukhin. Coach: V.I. Galaktionov. Dushanbe — 1981 BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) is located in the middle part of the Shakhdarin Range, in the main ridge, between the peaks 5962 m (Peak Soviet Youth) to the east and 6038 m (Peak Baikonur) to the west. From the summit, the following relief forms extend in different directions:

• To the northwest, a ridge descends steeply, dividing the northern valleys of the Seyj (with Luknitskogo Glacier) and Jarf (with Jarf Glacier) rivers.

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering.

XXIV USSR Mountaineering Championship

Peak Tajikistan via the East Face. Southwestern Pamir

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

(Report by the team from the Dnipropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports)

• 1. Shabokhin V. A.
• 2. Samoilenko V. Ch.
• 3. Kozak L. R.
• 4. Orlov O. L. Team leader: Kakhiani

Fig. 7