I. Climbing category: combined 2. Climbing region: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Druzhba" 4100 m via the chimney from bastion 3 of the ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 650 m average steepness: 80° length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories: 375 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock pitons: 20 pcs

Report

On the second ascent to the summit of Ossonali, 4855 m, category 5B, Alai ridge, Kok-Su gorge: by a team from the Odessa regional council of the "Avangard" sports society, as a duo. July 9-11, 1978 General view of the summit.

Map scheme of the Alai ridge (Kok-Su area)

Table of main route characteristics.

"Chelyabinsk Worker" via Uraltsev Pass along the southern wall cat. diff. Dzhura A.A. +2 Ims_ms@mail.ru Kichik-Alay ridge 5.1.4

Photo № 1: Peak "Chelyabinsk Worker" (taken on July 21, 2008 from the summit of p. Irbis 4200 m)

ascent route . . . . . invisible ascent route — descent route 5.1.4. Kichik-Alay ridge, Dzholdzhilga gorge. "CHELYABINSK WORKER" peak 4420 m via Uraltsev Pass along the southern wall, first ascent

Ascent Record

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Gissarsky Ridge
3. Ascent route with peak height: Zamin Karor 2nd via NW ridge (Lapshin), 4525 m
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1150 m, average steepness 67°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 800 m
6. Pitons driven: rock — 120, ice — 0, bolt — 0
7. Number of climbing hours: 32 hours
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: 2 nights on ledges

130

II. Khosilot.

Description of the ascent from the West via route 1Б (Category III)

I. Approaches.

The approaches to the start of the route are similar to those for the Yaghnobskaya Stena (main peak) route. It's also possible to exit directly under the route.

II. Ascent (from the camp in the upper Kanyon).

Move in the direction of the western wall of the peak, exiting onto the ridge beneath it. Along the wall, descend 300 meters. Here, a wide fracture of the peak's massif ends in a narrow couloir. A waterfall cascades down from the peak's plateau. The ascent path is to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall, via easy rock. Move simultaneously, but cautiously. After 1–1.5 hours, exit onto the plateau, in the eastern part of which, between two peaks, there is a connecting ridge, accessible via easy rock. From the connecting ridge, also on easy rock, move simultaneously. Descend from the peak via the ascent route. The ascent from camp to camp takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent was made in July 1971 by a group consisting of:

• Tkachev V.K., Candidate Master of Sports
• Kislov Yu., 3rd sports category

Arzamas City Council of Physical Education and Sports Description of the ascent route to Peak Kshemysh Bashi with ascent via the western wall of the southwestern buttress (first ascent) Group composition:

• ORLOV N.I. — leader
• DAVYDOV A.P.
• EGOROV L.A.
• MALYKHIN Y.M.
• RUDNEV V.S.

(4900 m) via the Eastern ridge Grade III, Category III July 25, 1969 V.P.B. Ryadov The Eastern ridge of the summit descends practically to the assault camp on the Kshemyi Glacier and forms the Kshemyi spur and the Purovsky Pass. From the assault camp, fire at the lower part of the Eastern ridge and ascend to the upper cirque of the glacier (2 hours 30 minutes). The ascent to the ridge is via a snowy slope, followed by moderately difficult rock climbing (40 m). During the ascent, orient towards the rock ledges located at the beginning of the ridge ascent to the upper slopes. Tayki-Tayki. Continue along the rocky ridge with moderate difficulty to the base of the gendarme. The time from the assault camp to the gendarme is 5 hours. Bypassing the gendarme is the key section of the route. The gendarme is traversed from below upwards on its right wall above the snow-ice couloir. Descending into the couloir is not advisable due to rockfall and avalanche danger. Bypassing the gendarme includes the following sections:

• Descend via rock ledges to the right and downwards;

Passport

1. Traverse class
2. Alay Range, Ak-Su valley, Pamir
3. Traverse peak A. Blok (East) — A. Blok (Main) — peak 4600 m — Ak-Su (North) — Ak-Su (Main)
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Length — 10,230 m Length of sections with 5B–6B category of difficulty — 1040 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 61°, of which 6B category of difficulty — 85° (4600–4915)
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 223, bolted – 0, chocks – 234, ice – 18. Additional: rock – 21, bolted – 0, chocks – 6, ice – 0.
7. Team's walking hours — 103, days — 10
8. Overnights — all overnights are bivouac, on the ridge

Alpinist Camp

“Alay”

July 13, 1983 rock climbing category

27

REPORT

on the ascent to peak 3,900 m (Domashnyaya) via the north-eastern ridge by the team MGS DSO “Zenit” 660, 19-V/160, 50°, 9 pitons, 12 karabiners, 6 hours by the duo Gutsol A.F. — 1st sports category, Makhnovetskiy A.B. — 1st sports category. Coach — Kozlov D.E. — Master of Sports of the USSR.

Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation The quality of photographic materials does not correct No. 32. Classify the route. Classified 3 cat. sl. No. 533 from No. 529 November 22, 1983.

Report

on the first ascent of p. 4974 (peak F. Dostoevsky) via the right counterfort of the Southwest wall by the group of LOS DSO "Burevestnik" gathering. Group leader Evstigneev A.V. July 5–7, 1982. Leningrad

Tactical actions of the team

The group started the ascent in the following rope team configuration: Litskevich–Pruss, Vasiliev–Shaginyan. Departure from the bivouac under the route on July 14, 1983, at 8:30 after a communication session. The steep part of the couloir was traversed by 14:00. Exit to the ridge at 15:00. Stop for a bivouac on the ridge before descending to the saddle before the "Tower" gendarme — 17:30.