ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent Category

High-altitude and technical.

2. Ascent Region

Shakhdarin Range. South-West Pamir.

3. Ascent Route with Indication of Peaks and Elevations

Peak TadGU, 6183 m, via the East-South-East wall, 6B category of difficulty.

4. Ascent Characteristics

Elevation gain — approximately 1000 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex section — 500 m.

5. Number of Pitons Driven

Konin Tyy Aar

Early in the morning, with 250 kg of cargo on the sleds. Having descended along the gentle snowy slope from the pass to the Fedchenko Glacier, we turned south, crossed the glacier, and approached the slopes of Pik Peredovoy. Here, the next intermediate camp was organized. The transition with sleds from the cave to the bivouac under Pik Peredovoy takes 10-12 hours.

3rd day

The group departed from the intermediate camp under Pik Peredovoy at 17:00 in the direction of the "rusty" counterforce. A long ridge branching off from the summit 6525 m in the western direction divides the cirque of Pik Revolyutsii into two parts: northern and southern. The northern part of the cirque is a series of gradually rising plateaus with sections of relatively steep ascent between them. In the upper part, there is a heavily broken icefall, which can be bypassed under the slopes of the western ridge of the 6300 m summit, and then a passage along huge snowfields is possible to the ridge of the 6525 m summit. The group rejected this path and chose a more logical and shorter route: into the southern part of the cirque, which is located somewhat lower and more gentle. Having bypassed numerous crevices, we approached the foot of the "rusty" counterforce. There is a convenient platform and water (3 hours).

4th day

From the bivouac, the group departed at 8:00 am. The ascent goes along a wide snow-ice couloir, the first from the "rusty" counterforce. The neighboring couloirs are narrow, steep, and covered with flow ice in the upper part. The path through the couloir:

II CATEGORY II ROUTES

I. Category of First Ascents 2. Kirgizskiy Alatoo, Aksay gorge 3. p. Baychechekhey via the central counterfort of the Western wall 4. 5B approximately 5. Elevation gain 1080 m., length 1350 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty rating: 440 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 72°, including 6th difficulty rating sections: 80–85° (60 m), 90–95° (20 m) 6. Pitons used: rock pitons

Ministry of Sports of the Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Alpinism Championship

2016

Class: Snow and Ice

Report

On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via the right part of the left triangle of the N wall, route "Krasnoyarsky" First ascent, estimated 6A category of difficulty Krasnoyarsk 2016

Ascent Details

Description

of the ascent to the peak "SEL'MASHEVETS" 2–6 category of difficulty. 14200 15 — 3–63 From the city of Frunze, we arrive at the "Issyk-Ata" resort. From the resort, the path lies along the right (orographic) bank of the river to the edge of the forest, located on the left bank of the river. From here, a view opens up to the gorge and the peak "KONEV" (on the right). At this point, we should cross to the left bank of the river, where we can make a halt. In the middle of the "Issyk-Ata" gorge stands the peak "BOTVEY", with sheer walls dividing the gorge into two branches. From the halt, the path goes through the meadow in the direction of the right branch of the gorge. Having reached a large boulder standing alone on the meadow, we turn left and descend down the scree to the river. Further, the path goes upstream along the river under the overhanging bank. At this point, we should be particularly cautious and attentive, as rockfalls or landslides are possible, especially after rain. We cross to the right bank of the river and ascend to the foot of a steep moraine, where we can rest at the edge of the forest. The approach to the moraine takes 4–5 hours. The ascent up the moraine is done closer to the left (in the direction of travel) side. The gorge gradually narrows. We overcome the last moraine ridge and enter the "BOTVEY" cirque. The ascent up the moraine to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. We set up camp on the "BOTVEY" glacier near the lake. The campsite is very convenient and safe. It takes 10–15 minutes to walk from the tents to the foot of the pass. The ascent to the pass via the middle scree takes about an hour. We form rope teams on the pass. The path from the pass goes along the scree beside the rocky outcrops — gendarmes — on the right (in the direction of travel) side. The movement along this section includes the following stages:

• The first and second gendarmes are bypassed with belay through rocky outcrops.

Passport

I. Category — technical. 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai glacier. 3. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall. 4. Route 5B category of difficulty, combined. 5. Height difference — 970 m, main part of the route height difference — 565 m, average steepness — 68–70 degrees, Length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 120 m. 6. Pitons driven: rock blade pitons ice screw 57 0 64 4 IO 0 5 0

1. High-altitude technical class.
2. Central Tien-Shan (Tengri-Tag).
3. Peak 6250 m via the right part of the N wall and W ridge.
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 2250 m, length — 2900 m. Length of sections with 5 category of difficulty — 1710 m, 6 category of difficulty — 80 m. Average slope — 50°
6. Pitons hammered: Rock 42, chocks 25, ice screws 102
7. Team's working hours: 30 hours, days — 5

Passport

I. Category of mountaineering ascent. 2. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. 3. Peak Khan-Tengri 103 SSW edge (V. Sviridenko, 82). 4. 6B category of difficulty. 5. Height difference 2590 m, length 3820 m. Length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 840 m. Length of sections 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58°. 6. Number of anchors used:

• rock anchors — 116
• protection equipment — 120

Climbing Passport

1. CLIMBING TYPE: technical.
2. CLIMBING AREA: Terskey-Alatau in the upper reaches of the Turgen-Aksu river.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, CLIMBING ROUTE: Tashtambektor, 4710 m, via the NW buttress of the 103 ridge.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 1090 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 610 m, average steepness of the route 60° (excluding the horizontal ridge section).
6. Number of pitons used: | | for belay | for artificial footholds | for organized bivouacs | | :------------: | :---------: | :----------------------: | :---------------------: | | rock | - | 74 | 12 |