Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Central Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Tyutyu-bashi, 2nd Western, 4850, via the 10th wall of the 10th counterfort. 4. Proposed category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, length of sections with 5–6 category: 160 m, average steepness 60^{\circ}. 6. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 33, chocks — 9, loops with carabiner — 3, including for creating artificial anchors — 6; total 39. 7. Number of climbing hours: from "Jailyk" tourist camp to the route — 4–5, from the foot to the summit — 13. 8. Number of overnight stays: one, lying down. 9. Group composition:

V. Tyutyu 2nd Western route via the left part of the South face, South ridge, first ascent. Central Caucasus.

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Kullumkol gorge.
3. V. Tyutyu 2nd West via the left part of the South face, South ridge, 4420 m.
4. Assumed 5B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. Height difference: 920 m, length — 1100 m.
   • Length of sections with 6A–6B cat. diff. — 99 m.

Ascent Passport No. 121

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Tyutyu Su gorge.
3. Tyutyu 2nd Western peak via the northern wall (M. Khergiani route).
4. Category of difficulty: 6A.
5. Height difference — 1150 m, length 1800 m, of which 5th and 6th category of difficulty are 720 m.
6. Pitched: | Ice screws: | Rock pitons: | Nut placements: | Cams: | | :---------- | :----------- | :-------------- | :---- |

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus, Tyutyu-Su gorge
3. V. Tyutyu, 2nd Zap. via N. side, 4420 m
4. 6A category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 1400 m, length 2100 m Length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty is 380 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 65° (3050–4150 m)
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock bolt pitons ice screws 20 96 26

Ascent Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge.
3. Ullu-Tau Glavnaya peak to the right of the rocky islands (Burlutsky's route).
4. Category of difficulty 5B ice-snow, 2nd ascent. 1994.
5. Height difference — 870 m; length — 1200 m (wall section — 950 m). Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 910 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 56°.
6. Number of ice screws used — 105 (0)
7. Team's climbing hours — 12.5 hours (11.5 hours — on the wall) and 2 days.

8-2.4.1.1385 Moscow Region Climbing Championship 2008 (Technical Class) REPORT on the ascent of the Ullutau peak by the team from Shchelkovo via the north wall couloir, category 5B (first ascent)

1. Region — Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge; KMGV code 2.4.1.
2. Peak Ullutau-chana (Main) — 4207 m via the North Wall couloir
3. Proposed category — 5B; first ascent.
4. Route type — ice and snow climb.
5. Height difference — 910 m.
6. Route length — 1100 m.
7. Length of category 5 section — 210 m; category 6 section — 45 m.
8. Average slope — 55°.

Ullutau Western — Eastern via the northwestern wall (traverse), combined, 5A

Route description:

Following the standard path via "Chegetskie nochyovki" we move towards Garvash Pass, pass the rocky outcrop "Khitsan", cross the glacier covered with avalanche debris and come out under the rock wall at the base of the "board". The exit to the rock wall is done in the lower part via a simple couloir, 60 m long. There is a protected area at the top of the couloir, suitable for the group to gather. The next part (one rope length) goes straight up the complex rocks, requiring the use of piton belay. Then we overcome simple rocks and come out to the lower part of the "board". There is a "stop for the night" here. The ascent from the "stop for the night" along the "board" to the ridge is 700–800 m and is done diagonally up to the left along the snow-ice slope in the direction of the saddle on the ridge. The steepness of the "board" is:

• in the lower part — 30°,
• in the upper part — up to 55°. The movement is carried out with piton belay. We come out onto the ridge and move along it to the "diamond", which is overcome head-on. The further path to the main summit lies along the destroyed ridge. There are areas for overnight stay along the way.

Ascent Record

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Chegem valley, Adyr ridge, classified under KMGV as 2.4.1
2. Peak Chegem, 4461 m, ascent via the NE wall of the NE ridge (route by V. Forostyan).
3. Route category: 6A.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: approximately 1160 m. Route length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 248 m, with 6th category difficulty: 108 m. Average steepness:
   • wall section: 92°;

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Adyrsky ridge; section according to the classification table 2.4.1. From the Gumači summit to the Kitlod pass (Adyrsu, Lekzyr, Chegem gorges).
2. Name of the summit: Chegem (4461 m), name of the route: via the North-Eastern wall of the North-Eastern ridge (V. Forstyan, 1977).
3. Proposed — 6A cat. diff.
4. Nature of the route: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1160 m (by altimeter). Route length: 1880 m. Length of sections:

• V cat. diff. — 148 m.
• VI cat. diff. — 138 m. Average steepness:

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF PIK SHCHUROVSKOGO Central Council of the Sports Society "Avangard" Kiev — 1962 Profile of the lower part of the large rock island. Sections of the wall R7–R10. Photograph taken by V. Bocharov during the ascent of the northeast wall of Pik Shchurovskogo on July 14, 1962.

Introduction

Pik Shchurovskogo (4259) is located in the Central Caucasus and is situated in the ridge that borders the Shkheldy glacier from the northeast.