Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek

Peak Simagina, Polevoy Route 5B

The approach from Koronskaya Hut takes one to one and a half hours. From the bergschrund to the rocks, it's half a rope of ordinary ice. The authentic variant bypasses the lower rock leg on the left. The climbing is up to 5th category, but it's destroyed. I climbed straight up the leg. Climbing is 5+ and A1 with some artificial aids. In crampons, the second half of the rope can be climbed. The 60m rope ends just before a gap in the ridge where the authentic route comes out.

From the parking lot at the GMS on the right-bank moraine of Golubina glacier, the path along the glacier to the Shesterykh pass takes 2 hours. From the pass, turn right and approach the base of the ridge ascent leading to p. Studentov. The beginning of the route is on the left, along the inner corner with ledges, which after 40 m leads to a convenient talus ledge (section R0–R1) Further:

• Up to the left 20 m along the chimney
• 20 m to the right along the inclined ledge (section R0–R2)
• Exit to the "window" between two teeth (40 m)
• From the left of the edge, along the ledges, approach the inner corner, turning into a chimney
• In front of the inner corner - a 6-meter wall
• Section 4–6: along the inner corner and chimney 50 m - exit to the vertical wall
• Along the vertical wall and along the inclined ledge, bypassing the summit of the first ascent to the right, exit to the horizontal part of the first ascent (section 5–6).

Lo­ca­tion. The Peak 30 let VLKSM is lo­ca­t­ed on the ridge of the Ja­la­my­sh­sky spur of the Kyrgyz Range and is its first peak to the north of the junction, where this spur branches off in a practically meridional direction from the So­ku­luk­sky spur. To the north of the peak, its other neighbor, the Pan­filov Peak, rises. From the summit to the east, a counter­fors runs, which flows along the Yu. Ady­gene gla­cier, making a turn to the north. The entire northern slope of the counter­fors is co­ver­ed with a han­ging gla­cier, which forms a small gla­cier at the foot. The western slope of the peak is steep and dissected by numerous rocky ribs made of cry­stal­line chlo­rite schists. Ex­ter­nally, the summit re­semb­les a re­gular three-faced py­ra­mid and is well vis­i­ble from the entire Ady­ge­ne area.

As­cent via the North Ridge

The rou­te, like the pre­vi­ous one, starts from the "Elektro" camp­si­te and coin­ci­des with it in the ini­tial part. Af­ter the slope of the Elektro peak turns to the west, you should not go to the left mo­re­ne of the Yu. Ady­ge­ne gla­cier. You need to con­tin­ue mo­ving along the same hol­low in the south­ern di­rec­tion, where the beau­ti­ful py­ra­mid — the goal of the as­cent — is al­most al­ways vis­i­ble. The hol­low leads to the val­ley be­tween the Pan­filov Peak and the Peak 30 let VLKSM, which forms two cham­bers here:

• the north­ern one
• the south­ern one, ad­ja­cent di­rectly to the Peak 30 let VLKSM From this val­ley, the bot­tom of which is paved with mo­ren­ic ridges, it is nec­es­sary to as­cend to the ridge con­nect­ing the two men­tioned sum­mits. There are two vari­ants of the path to this ridge:
• The first one: along the slope with an exit to the col (the 30 let VLKSM pass) from the south­ern cham­ber. The path to the pass runs along a loose scree.

Ascent Passport

to p. Uglovoy (3900) First Ascent

1. Type of ascent — rock climb. 2. Region of ascent — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area
2. Peak "Uglovoy" (conditional name) 3900 m according to NW classification, rock climb route
3. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length — 530 m, including sections of III–IV category of difficulty — 220 m, average steepness — 58°
4. Pitons hammered — 14/2 protection gear — 11/4

Route Description

to peak 3900 m (site "Uglovoy") via NW ridge, cat. III Having left the bivouac located near the Hydrometeorological Station on Golubina Glacier, cross the glacier and approach the route. Section O–I — an inclined, free rock shelf with a slope of 35° is traversed simultaneously with belay on protrusions. A control cairn is located on a small ledge. From the control cairn, go straight up the wall with a slope of 65° — a passage of medium difficulty, 40 m. Convenient belay points. 8–9 pitons per rope. Section 2–3 — an exit to a gendarme — 60 m: the slope increases to 75°, belay points are convenient, rocks are heavily destroyed, also 8–9 pitons per rope. 4 hours from the start of the route. Bypassing the gendarme (section 3–4) along the main shelf with a slope of 40° simultaneously with belay through protrusions. Further, 120 m along a steep wall of medium difficulty with a slope of 85° (in some places up to 90°). Piton belay — up to 10 pitons per rope. From here, moving simultaneously in traverse to the left along destroyed rocks, exit to the summit. 4 hours from the gendarme. Descent along the ridge to the last gendarme (simultaneous movement). From the last gendarme, rappel 60 m to the western side with an exit to the main shelf. Further, to the ice-snow plateau and down the couloir of route 2A to peak 4 IO 7, descend to Golubina Glacier. Recommendations:

• Most of the route is traversed on friction, so it is not recommended to move along the route in bad weather. Note: I. In general, according to the length of sections of category IV, the route deserves category 4A difficulty, however, its relatively small overall length allows recommending it to be classified as 3B.

2. The large number of pitons indicated in the report is explained by the low qualification of the participants (III sports category) and the fact that this ascent was a first ascent.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Uchitel via the Eastern Ridge.

Climbing Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Uchitel 4550 m. Presumed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route character — ridge. Route height difference — 700 m. Route length — 1700 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 1550 m, II — 150 m,
3. Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°.
4. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;

Ascent Passport

on p. 4265 m.

1. First ascent — I. Kalas
2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area
3. Summit p. 4265 m along the 63 ridge from l. Golubina, ridge route type
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, length of 2 category of difficulty sections — 450 m, average steepness — 42°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 5 (0); ice — 0
7. Number of walking hours — 6 hours
8. Number of overnight stays — none

Ascent Passport

Peak 4265 m. First Ascent

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent region — Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak 4265 m according to 3rd classification category, route characteristic — ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B 5. Route characteristic: height difference — 750 m, section length — 600 m 2nd difficulty category, average steepness — 35° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 6 (0), ice — 0 7. Number of walking hours — 9

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR REGION

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT PIK KOCHEVNIKOV 3460 m VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE "A20", CARRIED OUT BY THE TEAM OF THE REGIONAL PUBLIC ORGANIZATION "MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR REGION" presumably 4B cat. diff. FIRST ASCENT Foygel M. R. Sushko D. S. 2022

Table of Contents

Table of Contents – 2

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.