Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Gissar Range.
3. Peak — Zamin Karor (4303 m) I-st Western peak via N-W wall, O. Kapitanova route.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections:
   • IV difficulty category — 120 m
   • V difficulty category — 450 m
   • VI difficulty category — 805 m

I. Class of ascent — rock 2. Re­gion of as­cent — Pami­ro-Alai, southern bran­ches of the Gis­sar ridge, Igi­zak valley 3. Ver­tex Big Igi­zak, 4100 m, via the left edge of the NE wall 4. As­sumed dif­fi­cul­ty cat­egory — 45635 г 505, №14(3–81) 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 240 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections — total — 405 m, 2nd difficulty grade — 70 m, 3rd difficulty grade — 112 m, 4th difficulty grade — 195 m, 5th difficulty grade — 20 m 6. Rock hooks ham­mered in to cre­ate i.t.o. 7. Num­ber of tra­vel hours — 8 hours

Description

OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KHODZHA-LOKAN /"MECHTA", 4767/ VIA THE SOUTH-EAST RIDGE. Dushanbe 1962 If you fly from Dushanbe to Moscow and the plane goes directly north, not through the Baysun pass, you can see this mountain. Soon after takeoff, the southern folds of the Hissar range appear below. The Varzob River is under the plane. Dark gray rocks line the stream's banks. Higher up, mountains rise. Among the rocks, patches of snow appear. Ice... To the left, a tall, slender mountain on an icy pedestal emerges. Like the surrounding lower peaks, it is mostly dark gray, but stands out from its neighbors with its elegance and the fact that a huge bluish snow-ice "cushion" is "hanging" on its northeastern side, clinging to its "tip". Climbers call this mountain Mechta... In 1897, while traveling through the Pamir-Alay and reaching the upper reaches of the Khanaka River, Academician LIPSKY V.I. saw this peak and made the following note: "From the pass ... a high snowy ridge was visible, much higher than the one we were on... The main peak of this ridge, significantly rising above the ridge, is conical..., sharply distinguished by its height". (LIPSKY V.I. "Mountain Bukhara. Results of three years of travel in Central Asia in 1897-1899." St. Petersburg, 1902, part 1, p. 126). This area began to attract the attention of mountaineers as the alpinism exploration of the Pamir-Alay began, particularly after the establishment of the Varzob alpine camp. In June 1953, during one of the reconnaissance hikes, a group from the alpine camp ascended to the summit of Bakhubi (Udal'naya-Tadj.), located on the watershed of the Sioma and Maykhura rivers. A participant in this ascent, now an alpinism instructor A.G. SHUKUROV, recounts that, looking at the panorama that opened up from the summit, with a beautiful pyramid in the center, the group leader A.A. KUZNETSOV exclaimed, "This is a dream!"

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - technical.
2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route - Zamok Peak. H = 5,070 m. Via the E counterfort of the NNE wall. 2nd ascent.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 970 m, average steepness - 60–70°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating ITO a) rock - 86 13 b) ice - — —

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Eastern Fan Range 3. Zamok (5070 m) — via the shortest path from the wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 5B 5. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m Length of the wall section — 1115 m Total route length — 1675 m Length of sections with IV–VI complexity category — 890 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67°

Report

on the ascent made by the team of a/c "Odessa" to the summit of Parandas via the right part of the North face — first ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay. Zeravshan range. Fan Mountains. March 5, 1988
2. Mt. Parandas 4250 m
3. First ascent via the right part of N face 6A
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference of the route: 850 m Route length: 1370 m. Section lengths:

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents
2. Fann Mountains
3. Chapdara, 5000 m via North Ridge
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Height difference — 1281 m, length — 1985 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 585 m. Average steepness of main sections — 55°, of the route — 42°
6. Pitons driven: rock — 35, chocks — 42, ice screws — 17

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Chapdara, 5297 m, via the Northeast wall.
4. Expected difficulty category — 6B cat. diff., classified
5. Route characteristics — wall, total route length (sections R0–R24) — 2200 m, length of sections I–VI cat. diff. — 920 m, wall height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 85–87°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating ITDs: rock — 208 pcs., ice — 6 pcs., bolt — 12 pcs., chocks — 3 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours — 42 hours
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — three bivouacs: first — lying in a niche, all together; second — on a narrow ledge, three + one; third — on the ridge, platform, all together.

Ascent Report

1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing region — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights via NNE wall of CHAPDARA 5297 m first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1947 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 960 m (including 700 m of 6B category) average steepness of the wall section — 87°.
6. Pitons hammered and chocks used for protection, for creating artificial support points:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area, range: Fan Mountains 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: P. Chaplygina, 4500 m, via the southwest ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 350-400 m, average slope 45°, length of 5th category sections 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and creating anchor points, rock/IО ice — bolted 7. Number of climbing hours: 3.5 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications: MUMDZhI T.M., CMS — leader; Nerdnikov V.M., 1st sports category; Trusenkov V.V., 1st sports category