5

Route Description

The route starts from the ascent to the 1st candar on the northern ridge of the peak. Initially, 150 m across the firn and talus of the ice-rock dome located to the right of the rib, leading to the 1st candar. The steepness of the dome in its lower part is 45°. Further, the dome narrows, its steepness increases to 50°, and its rockfall danger also increases. Then, there is a transition to the talus of the rib. The average steepness of the rib is 50°. The length to the gandarm on the ridge is about 500 m. The rib is a step-like rock formation with walls up to 85° steep and 3–6 meters high. In some areas, there is accretion ice. Movement is alternating with piton belay and belay through protrusions. From the start of the route to the 1st gandarm on the ridge — 3 hours. At the first gandarm, there is a control point. Further movement is along the northern ridge. The 1st gandarm is bypassed on the right via ledges, 60 m. Then, there is an ascent up to the rocky ridge, 40 m. Individual rocky protrusions of the ridge are passed head-on. The 2nd gandarm on the ridge is passed head-on. From the 1st gandarm on the ridge to the summit — 2 hours.

Descent from the Summit

Initially, 60 m along the ascent path. Then, left into a snowy couloir with a steepness of 40° to

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Guamysh gorge
3. Peak "5200"
4. Cat. difficulty 6
5. Elevation gain 100 m Length of sections with cat. difficulty 5-6 — 930 m. Average steepness 75°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 108-XIII, ice — 55-X, bolt — 5-U, закладных — 36-II
7. Walking hours — 42
8. Overnights: 1 — in hammocks; 2 — two in hammocks; 3 — four on a platform cut out in a snowy ridge; 4 — platform for 6 people on a snow drift; 5 — platform cut out in a snow-ice slope for 6 people (semi-reclining).

1. Ascent passport. I. Category — technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, Gumush gorge.
3. Karaganda South (4850) via the North face of the East ridge.
4. Category 5B, combined
5. Height difference 850 m.
6. Length of sections: ice — 300, rock — 390, snow — 450. Category 5–6 sections — 630 m, average steepness — 75°.
7. Number of pitons: rock 56/5, ice 68, bolt 4/4, nut 38/2.

Участок R0–R1: Up the snowy slope and further via snowy-icy couloir to a characteristic cave. Участок R1–R2: Exit to the right wall of the couloir and further along the grey slab with a limited number of jugs. At the end of the slab there's a control cairn. Участок R2–R5: Up leftwards along the left edge of the couloir to the base of the rusty wall. Участок R3–R4: Up leftwards along the smooth grey slab. Участок R4–R5: The slab ends with a 10-meter wall with an overhang. Участок R5–R6: Move up rightwards along the black slabs to the base of the rusty overhanging wall with black streaks. Участок 6–7: The wall is climbed on the right. Challenging climbing. Then up along the scree ledge. Участок 7–8: Along the ruined ledge move rightwards towards 3 sharp "gendarmes". Here is the second control point. Участок 8–9: Up leftwards along the grey rocks to approach the base of a "gendarm" of triangular shape. Bypass the "gendarm" on the left along the scree ledge, which breaks off with steep grey rocks. Traverse up rightwards to exit into a snowy-icy couloir. Участок 9–10: Up the couloir to exit onto a scree ledge below the grey triangular wall on the ridge of the counterfort.

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing class - technical 2. Climbing area, ridge - Pamir-Alay, Gaumysh ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - p. 4580 m (250th anniversary of Kazakhstan's accession to Russia) via the northeast face. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B cat. diff. (tentative (first ascent)) 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference 830 m
• length of 5-6 grade sections 621 m
• average steepness 66°
• average steepness of the wall section of the route 74°

5.1.247

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5.1

Pamir-Alay, Gaumysh valley p. 5100 via North wall key col with traverse to p. Gaumysh Gl. (5367 m) 5B comb. (3rd ascent) 3rd ascent

Ascent Log

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

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1. CATEGORY — rock climbing
2. REGION — KIChIK-ALAI ridge
3. PEAK — KUKRYNIKOSOV (S) (4160 m) first ascent via the north face of the eastern ridge (combined)
4. PROPOSED cat. diff. — 3B
5. Elevation gain — 630 m Length of sections with R0–R6 cat. diff. — NONE, average steepness — 43°
6. PITOONS DRIVEN:

34. Kirgizata Vostochnaya via the North Ridge. The route is combined, cat. 2A (fig. 5, 6, 40, 41, 43). Length — 1000 m, ascent — 450 m, time — 4–5 hours. The path from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac by the lake under the northwestern slopes of Jyrty peak — see route 23. From the initial bivouac, move up-right across the moraine, then cross the Vostochny Kirgizata Glacier and approach the right side of the Eastern buttress of the North Ridge of Kirgizata Vostochnaya peak. From the glacier, ascend the ice-snow slope to the Eastern buttress. Along the snowy, scree-covered, wide, and gently sloping Eastern buttress, rise to the lower shoulder of the North Ridge. On the shoulder, turn left and follow the easy, broken rocks and scree, overcoming numerous simple short walls and low seracs (with protection) along the gently sloping 300–400-meter North Ridge to the foot. Along simple sections with short walls of medium difficulty, and steep 40–50° rocks of the ascent, perform a 200–250-meter climb (pitons protection) to the upper shoulder. From the shoulder, traverse 150–200 meters along the simple rocks of the North Ridge, bypassing a serac on the left (protection), approach the base of the North serac's tower, and ascend a simple 10–12-meter wall (protection) to the serac. From the serac, descend 10 meters using a sport descent down a simple wall, and along the scree-covered, snowy 200–250-meter North Ridge, approach the rocky tower of the summit. Ascend an 8–12-meter simple wall (“live” rocks, protection) to reach the summit of Kirgizata Vostochnaya. From the initial bivouac — 5–6 hours.

East Ridge

Climbing Route Descriptions

I. Peak "Sтроитель Токтогульской ГЭС" (Builder of Toktogul HPP) Kurgan

The first ascent was made by a group consisting of Koporushkin V.G. (leader), Inozemtsev Yu.P., Kuzmichenok V.A., Tonka A.R. (all - 2nd sports category) in the period November 2-4, 1972. The route diagram is shown in Fig. 2. The mountain spur, in which the peak is located, stretches along the right bank of the Kurgan River in a north-northwest - south-southeast direction. The overall view of the route is shown in Fig. 3 (from the side of Tyuya Tash peak) and Fig. 4 (from the side of Sur-Too peak). Approach. From the bivouac, after crossing to the left bank of a nameless stream, we descend to the south. After 10-15 minutes of walking, we cross a stream flowing from under Dzhelan-Konybashi peak. Further, the trail goes along the right bank of the right-bank tributary of the Kurgan River (the stream originates under the Kumbel pass). After 1.5 hours of walking from the base camp, the trail crosses to the left bank of the tributary and goes along the snow-covered moraine in the direction of the southeastern ridge of Sur-Too peak (2 hours). Route. Further movement along the ridge in the direction of the saddle between Sur-Too peak and Peak "Builder of Toktogul HPP" - initially under the cliffs, and then along the cliffs of the western slopes of the ridge. There is a convenient place for an overnight stay on the saddle. The travel time from the base camp to the saddle is 6 hours. From the saddle, move along the crest to the I gendarme, which is bypassed on the left in the direction of travel. Further, we bypass the lower part of the II gendarme on the left. Then, along a snowy couloir, and in the upper part - along the cliffs with piton protection (1 piton) - we reach the crest under the III gendarme.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: Technical
2. Climbing region, range: Pamir-Alay, Kikik-Alay range
3. Peak: Tsvilling S.M. peak Height: 4326 m Ascent route: from Tsvilling pass
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4–5
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: ~850 m Length of sections: 5–6 with 3rd category difficulty, 30 m