Ascent Log

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-su valley.
3. Peak Aktyubek (5125 m) via the right counterfort of the North face.
4. Proposed category 5A, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1325 m. Total length: 2435 m, sections of category 5 — 200 m. Slope: overall on the route — 38°, on the wall section — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 25, ice — 11. Chocks placed — 34.
7. Number of travel days — 3, hours — 24.
8. Number of bivouacs on the route — 2 (both convenient, in a tent).

Route Description by Sections

R0–R1. Start moving left and below the summit scree along the wall, then along the corner. Reach the flattening. 45 m IV R1–R2. Move along the gentle rocks under the overhang. It provides protection from falling rocks. 40 m III R2–R3. Move right towards the stream (rocks are falling along the stream). Left of the stream, climb the wall to reach the gentle rocks. 45 m IV R3–R4. Approach the wall. Climb through the crack using artificial aids (IT) with underclimbs. 20 m II, 20 m VIA1 R4–R5. Climb right through the crack, followed by a difficult traverse (10 m). Reach the gentle, smooth rocks left of the stream and climb up. Set up a station at the exit to simple rocks. 15 m VIA2–A3, 35 m IV R5–R6. Climb up, then through the corner, to reach the gentle rocks. Continue climbing up. 15 m IV, 30 m II R6–R7. Climb right and up to the scree, then along the scree right and up to the rocky ridge. 100 m I R7–R8. Climb along the ridge left and up to the base of the gentle, smooth slab. 80 m I–III R8–R9. Climb the slab left and up, then straight up. Reach the internal corner. 40 m V+ A1

ASCENT PASSPORT. I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Mensu gorge. 3. Belukha Eastern, via the pillows of the south-eastern slope. 4. Proposed — Category III, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °. 6. Movement hours — 8 hours. 7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none. 8. Leader — Kuznetsova Tatiana Yurievna — II sports category. Participants:

ALPINIAD

of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik"

Gorny Altai

Ak-kem valley July 10 - August 20 1963 Ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha from the cirque of Men-su glacier

Report

on the ascent to Vostochnaya Belukha via the south-eastern ridge (route category 3B) On July 26, 1963, a group of climbers, participants of the Alpinad of the Tomsk Regional Council of the All-Union Student Sports Society "Burevestnik", consisting of:

8. Kara — a lesson

Report

on the first ascent route to the summit 3548 m a.s.l. It is proposed to be named after Tomsk climber Krylov Stanislav. Altai Republic, Ust-Koksinsky district, Katunsky ridge via the glacier from the north 2B cat. difficulty (approximately) (ice climbing) by the team of Tomsk Alpine Federation March 20, 2022 Participants: Temerev I.M. Khasanov N.A.

Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Range, Karakbak gorge, 1.2
2. Peak Barda Vizbora via the right counterfort of the North face, elevation 3390 m.
3. Proposed — Category 3B difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Elevation gain: 920 m; length — 2100 m. Average slope of the route — 25–30 degrees. Length of Category 5 difficulty sections — 15–20 m. Average slope of the main part of the route (up to the ridge) — 35–45 degrees, length — 1240 m, elevation gain — 700 m.
6. Number of pitons used on the route: ice: 6, rock: 5.
7. Team's travel time: 9:40 h from the glacier to the summit;

Heroes of Altai peak via the northwestern slope Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge 1.2

Passport

1. Category: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Heroes of Altai peak, via the northwestern slope, ice and snow.
4. Proposed — category 4A difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 480 m; length – 1050 m. Length of category V sections – 15 m. Average slope:

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
2. v. UPI, center of the NW slope.
3. route 2B cat. sl., first ascent is proposed.
4. Nature of the route: ice.
5. Height difference of the route — 500 m. Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections:

• 2 cat. sl. — 550 m.
• 3 cat. sl. — 450 m. Average steepness:

Chaptynova peak via the direct line of the northern slope Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge 1.2

Passport

1. Class: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Chaptynova peak, via the direct line of the northern slope, ice-snow route.
4. Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 350 m; length – 650 m. Average steepness of the route – 25–30°.