55. Yakum from the West, 16 cat. sl. route, fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir towards the summit. The main massif of the summit has characteristic rust-colored rocks, and to its left, the western ridge has grey rocks. Then, turning left up the slope, ascend to the western ridge of the summit. On the grassy slopes, there are individual rock outcrops and many loose stones. The oblique rust-colored rocks of the summit remain to the right. On the slopes, there are dry riverbeds. Follow one of them, and then ascend via a wide scree-filled couloir to the ridge. Travel along the ridge is over rocks and snow. Short, steep sections are traversed with simultaneous belay. The ascent to the summit is via easy, crumbling rocks. The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 3–4 hours. Fig. 29.

From leaving for the route to descending to the glacier, the group spent 13.5 hours on the route, including rest on the ridge, at the summit, and on the col. Time breakdown by sections:

• Leaving the bivouac on the right moraine of Chimtarginsky Pass
• Approaching the bergschrund
• 1.5 hours Ascending ice to the rocky ridge
• 4.5 hours Ascending rocks to the pre-summit ridge
• 3.0 hours ascending the ridge to the summit

Report

of the Barnaul Alpine Club (BaKA) team on the ascent of Khodzharaivat peak via the left buttress of the southern wall first ascent, category III complexity, oriented Participants: Lezhnev A.P., Babushkina O.M., Mentovskaya A.A.

Ascent Details

1. Gissaro-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains — northern part, 5.3.1
2. Khodzharaivat, 3600 m (requires clarification, presumably lower), via the left buttress of the southern wall.
3. Proposed category III complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.

PASSPORT

I Technical Class 2 Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Alaudin Valley. 3 Chapdara peak (5053 m) via NW wall 4 First ascent, category 6 difficulty (tentative), combined 5 Height difference — 1650 m, length — 2230 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1055 m, including 6 category — 465 m. Average route steepness — 71°. Average steepness of the wall section — 77° (3400–4775 m).

I. Category of technically challenging ascents 2. Area of ascent: Fann Mountains. 3. Chapdara, 5297 m, NW wall (Kiselev's route), category 5B, second ascent of the route. 4. Route description: route length — height difference — 2147 m, length of category 5 sections — 1700 m, average steepness — 70. 5. Pitons driven: rock — 103, ice — 36, chocks — 28. 6. Number of climbing hours — 41 hours. 7. Number of climbing days — 4, good bivouacs. 8. Number and description of bivouacs: three bivouacs: 1st on a snowy slope, 2nd on a narrow rocky ledge, lying down, separate; 3rd on a rocky ledge, lying down.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Ascent route, peak, its height — p. Energiya, 5100 m, Northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m. route length — 4450 m. length of 5th difficulty category sections — 770 m. average steepness — 65–70°

— 2 — The foaming distribution follows this pattern:

• Nn-lp­ppp­purov
• Tu­tup­ppp­-lsr- li­s
• Aran­chso­v-Јi­lov Then count by (2) and (3). The section is not very long, 30–40 m, but steep. At the pass, all the participants of Катьцит and Перопутная started at 9:00. Then they moved along the gully, traversing the funnels of Перопутная and Медведна (4) and (5). The ascent to the peak Бпо­б — (6) is done via destroyed slopes with simultaneous belay. We reached the peak at 14:30. We started descending from the peak at 14:30. We descended to the ridge below the funnels of Бпо­б and Бо­две­дна. From this point on, we descended, roped together, along a gentle slope that descends to the river Бпо­б. Further, we followed the right bank of the river Бпо­б or a trail through a clearing with a rainforest. We returned to camp at 15:40. V N O L N

1. The ascent to the peak Бпо­б via the western ridge is a Category 2A route.
2. The height of the peak is approximately 440 m.

Rocks of medium difficulty, in some places it is necessary to use iron belay. The first pronounced gendarme is bypassed on the left along inclined shelves, then movement continues along the ridge. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right along a snowy-icy couloir with rocky exits, then movement continues along the right side of the ridge. The col - before the third gendarme is traversed (stonefall hazard, iron belay). From the col, descend down to the left side of the ridge: one rope on difficult rocks into a rocky-icy couloir. Cross the couloir, exit onto a snow patch to the left of the third gendarme. From the snow patch, down difficult rocks (chimney) - one rope down and along a snowy-icy slab to the foot of the third gendarme. Up the snowy-icy slab and the col between the third gendarme and the summit (stonefall hazard). From the col, exit into a wide couloir located to the right of the summit. Up the couloir to the pre-summit ridge - rocks of medium difficulty.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Matcha node, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Summit — peak Mushketova, height — 5300 m, ascent route via the center of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1900 m; b) length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 930 m; c) average steepness (sections 1–32) — 73°, (sections 32–46) — 50°.
6. Number of pitons hammered for protection:

14 5.4.2.5. All-Union Championship of the Trade Unions DFSO on Alpinism 1988 Class of technical ascents

Report

Report on the ascent of Peak Ak-su North 5217 m via the north wall by the team of instructors of AUSB “Alay” Team Leader
Team Coach