Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peak — Peak Komsomola, height — 4376 m, route — along the north-eastern ridge (through the peaks Sneznoe plato, Lastochkino gnezdo, Ushbinka, Verblud).
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5A in winter.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 880 m
   • average steepness — 50°
   • length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 315 m
6. Pitons driven:

Northern ex­co­nus

Оya­tsa ma­pu­rya­ta­po sections

Sect. 3. The start of the route is to the right of a pronounced rocky outcrop. The bergschrund wall is 3–5 meters. Then, along the icy slope, along the rocks to the right of K. Kelyugin's route, up the S wall, 3rd grade. Belaying:

• through ice screws Movement:
• on a double rope
• with the use of ice axes (French: piolet-traction is not mentioned but "айс-фи­фи" is translated as "ice fifis" or more likely "ice axes" in this context, but it is kept as "ice-fifi" or simply using "crampons" and tools for self-arrest) is not accurate here, so it is translated as "ice-fifi" Sect. 3. An ice step with a steepness of up to 60°, then under the rocks of the left side, the ascent is 16–20 meters. Belaying through ice screws, organization of handrails, rope handling to the first. In these areas, preliminary processing with 6 ropes. Sect. 3–6. Ice slope up to 55° along the rocky side. Entrance to the shoulder of the western counterfort. Before exiting to the shoulder, the steepness of the ice is up to 60°. Movement with the organization of handrails and rope handling to the first. Belaying through ice screws, using ice-fifi and ice axe. Control cairn in the area of section No.4. Sect. 8–10. Movement along the rocks, 3rd cat. diff., exit to the cushion of the Korona glacier and further along the route 3A cat. diff. to the Korona (I-ya) summit. Alternating and simultaneous movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks. On the shoulder of the western counterfort — a control cairn. Sect. 10–12. Along the icy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, exit to the saddle between the I-st and II-nd towers. From the saddle, 1.5 ropes to the summit. Alternating movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks.

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. 4. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 7. Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 8. Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing).

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North wall.
4. 6B complexity category.

Description

of the ascent to the peak "SEL'MASHEVETS" 2–6 category of difficulty. 14200 15 — 3–63 From the city of Frunze, we arrive at the "Issyk-Ata" resort. From the resort, the path lies along the right (orographic) bank of the river to the edge of the forest, located on the left bank of the river. From here, a view opens up to the gorge and the peak "KONEV" (on the right). At this point, we should cross to the left bank of the river, where we can make a halt. In the middle of the "Issyk-Ata" gorge stands the peak "BOTVEY", with sheer walls dividing the gorge into two branches. From the halt, the path goes through the meadow in the direction of the right branch of the gorge. Having reached a large boulder standing alone on the meadow, we turn left and descend down the scree to the river. Further, the path goes upstream along the river under the overhanging bank. At this point, we should be particularly cautious and attentive, as rockfalls or landslides are possible, especially after rain. We cross to the right bank of the river and ascend to the foot of a steep moraine, where we can rest at the edge of the forest. The approach to the moraine takes 4–5 hours. The ascent up the moraine is done closer to the left (in the direction of travel) side. The gorge gradually narrows. We overcome the last moraine ridge and enter the "BOTVEY" cirque. The ascent up the moraine to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. We set up camp on the "BOTVEY" glacier near the lake. The campsite is very convenient and safe. It takes 10–15 minutes to walk from the tents to the foot of the pass. The ascent to the pass via the middle scree takes about an hour. We form rope teams on the pass. The path from the pass goes along the scree beside the rocky outcrops — gendarmes — on the right (in the direction of travel) side. The movement along this section includes the following stages:

• The first and second gendarmes are bypassed with belay through rocky outcrops.

Photo of the wall on the left. Taken on February 17, 1988 at 18:00. "Triplet" lens, Φ = 40 mm, distance 2 km, height 4300 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — ice and snow
2. Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too range
3. Peak Auézov (5967 m) via the ice "board" on the Eastern wall
4. Complexity category — approximately 5B, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1267 m. Length of sections with III cat. diff. — 795 m, their average steepness — 48°
6. Pitons driven: Rock Chocks Ice 1/0 9/0 105/0
7. Climbing hours — 16.5, days — 2

Panorama of the Researchers Glacier www.alpfederation.ru

3. Climbing Conditions and Tactics

The West Kok-Shaal-Tau region, like the entire Tian Shan, is characterized by:

• heavily fragmented rocks,
• ice collapses,
• an abundance of dry, powdery snow. In connection with this, it was necessary to prepare for overcoming rockfall-prone areas and for extensive ice and snow work. The weather in this region is not very stable. Often, in the second half of the day, it deteriorates, and clouds envelop the peaks of Chon-Tarasu, Dankov, and nearby peaks.

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.