2016 Russian Mountaineering Championship

High Altitude Category

Report on the ascent of the Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation team to Thalay Sagar (6904 m) Via the counterfort of the North Face, "Moveable Feast" — first ascent, approximately 6B category difficulty. Senior coach: E.V. Kuznetsova Team leader: S.A. Nilov

Thalay Sagar (6904 m) via the counterfort of the North Face "Moveable Feast"

Ascent Details

1. Ascent category: high altitude

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Indian Himalayas, Garhwal.
3. Thalay Sagar peak (6904 m), via the center of the northern wall (“High Voltage”).
4. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain — 1480 m, total route length — 1815 m, including 1325 m of wall climbing. Length of sections by category of difficulty:

• 5th category — 305 m.
• 6th category — 920 m. Average steepness:

1. Himalayas;
2. Nanga Parbat (Diāmīr) 8126 m;
3. Cat. difficulty — 6A;
4. Route character — combined;
5. Route height difference — 4026 m. Route length — 6500 m.
6. Pitons used on the route: total — 35, left on the route — 35; Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Ice | Chocks | Friend | Firn | | :--: | :-: | :-: | :----: | :--: | :--: |

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Western Himalayas, Diamir gorge
3. Nanga Parbat peak — 8125 m via Diamir Wall (Kinshofer route)
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain: from glacier — 3800 m, length — 4760 m. Length of 6A category sections — 120 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° (from camp at 5100 m to the summit). Steepness of the wall section (from 5400 to 6200 m) — 60°.
6. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — 37.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Rowaling Kang Shar 6645 m, proposed 6A cat. sl., for the period from October 20, 2023 to October 23, 2023.

I. Climbing Passport

Ascent Passport

1. High-altitude category.
2. Himalayas, Tibet, China, Rongbuk Glacier.
3. Everest 8848 m via the center of the North Face.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route elevation gain: 2648 m. Route length: 5350 m. Section length: Cat. diff. – 740 m, Cat. 1 diff. – 150 m. Average steepness of the main route section – 46°.
6. Hooks left on the route: approximately 140; including pitons: 0. Hooks used on the route: more than 300. Total IT used: 40.

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude category 2. Himalayas 3. Mount Everest, 8848 m, NNE wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 2328 m, wall section 1780 m;

• length 3738 m, wall section 2238 m; length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 1790 m; average steepness of the main part of the route 52°.

6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Nuts | Ice and snow |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area: China, Tibet — Himalayas, Rongbuk gorge.
3. Peak: Everest (8848 m) via the Northeast ridge through the North Col.
4. Complexity category — 5B.
5. Elevation gain (from ABC camp) 2450 m, distance (from ABC) 6000 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. complexity — 25 m 6th cat. complexity — none

6. Number of pitons driven:

rock placements ice screw pitons snow anchors

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Central Himalayas.
3. Everest via the Northeast Ridge with ascent through the North Col (8848 m). 4,5–6B cat. dif.
4. Elevation gain: 2210 m, route length — 5150 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 920 m, 6 cat. dif. — 60 m.
5. Pitons driven: | rock | nuts | ice | snow | | :--------: | :-------: | :------: | :--------: | | 26+39* | 0 | 8 | 40+9* |

Passport

1. High-altitude category
2. Himalayas, Central Tibet, East Rongbuk Glacier
3. Mt. Everest via the Northeast Ridge
4. Category 6B difficulty
5. Elevation gain – 3698 m
6. Pitons used | Rock | Ice | Snow | | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 35 | 40 | 40 |