Panoramnaya Peak via North wall — Cat. 4B The path from the “Bezengi” base camp to the first stage of the Mizhirgi icefall can be seen in the description of the ascent route to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak from Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass. 70 m ascent up a steep firn slope from the bergschrund. The rocky cape is bypassed on the left on the ice, then 35 m on simple rocks to the right – exit to the site of this cape. From the site 70 m up the stepped (destroyed) rocks. 50 m traverse left under the steep wall, then 3 m up the plate. From here 50 m to the right, then ascent on the plates to the sites of the lower rocky belt. From the sites up the ice-snow slope to under the rocky island. Traverse under it left-up to a steep ice shelf and fully up-right, then up a 3-meter icy vertical groove. Further up 60–70 m on a steep bowl-shaped ice slope (belay!) and on 50 m snowy rocks of medium difficulty – exit to the site in the upper part of the island. There is a control tour on the sites. From the site 100–120 m up the ice-snow slope to the light-brown wall of the North buttress of the Utës spire. 20 m right under the wall. Then up a 4–5 m chimney and 120–130 m on snowy, destroyed tile-like rocks of medium difficulty of the buttress. The 4-meter rocky ascent of the buttress is passed on the right side of the inner corner (belay!). And on the snow-ice slope left of the rocky ridge ascent under the second ascent. 10 m to the right under the ascent and up a 10–12-meter cleft up-left (piton!). 60–70 m up-left from the ascent on a steep snow-ice slope and snowy ridge – exit to the saddle between the Utës spire and Panoramnaya Peak. From the saddle left, on the snowy ridge (cornices!) and on simple rocks ascent to Panoramnaya Peak. 8–12 hours from the glacier to the summit.

Description of the ascent route to Panorama Peak from the South via couloir (2B cat. dif.) (4077)

The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the first stage of the Kyundyum-Mizhirgi glacier's icefall can be found in the description of the ascent route to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak from the Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass (3A cat. dif.). A bivouac site is located on the moraine of the glacier's first stage. 3 hours from the "Bezengi" alpine camp. Departure from the bivouac at 4:00 towards the wide couloir. Then:

• Ascend on the left side of the couloir via large scree.
• The couloir gradually narrows.
• At the turn, the couloir forks.
• The path goes via the right couloir on snow (35–40°) with crampons.
• 80–90 m before the ridge, turn right and follow distinct rock ledges under the "gendarme" (belay!!).
• The ledges lead to a snow-ice couloir (30–35°).

25. Panoramnaya Peak via East Ridge - Cat. 2B (A. Ermolaev, V. Vexler, A. Dobrushin and A. Kiselev - August 5, 1963; Fig. 7, 8). The path from the Bezengi alpbase to the bivouac on the South Ridge of Utug rock pinnacle is described in 18°. From the ridge, descend to the snowy plateau of the glacier, above the third step of the icefall and along it to the left and upwards, parallel to the ridge. From the glacier, to the left and up a snowy couloir to the saddle of the South Ridge below Utug rock pinnacle. From the saddle, make a 60–70-meter descent to the Southeastern plateau of Panoramnaya Peak. Ascend across the plateau, then up a snowy slope to the left of a rock pinnacle and to the right of a small rocky outcrop to the saddle on the East Ridge of Panoramnaya Peak. Ascend along the snowy (watch out for cornices!) and easy rocky ridge to below the rocky tower of Panoramnaya Peak. Traverse rocky, heavily snowed ledges (belays required!) to the left of the tower, spiralling left and upwards to the summit of Panoramnaya Peak. From the initial bivouac - 4–5 hours. Descent via the ascent route - 2–3 hours. Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants - 4–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - South Ridge of Utug rock pinnacle.
3. Departure time - 4:00.
4. Equipment: main rope - 2 × 30 m; auxiliary cord - 2 m; rock pitons - 2–3; ice screws - 3–4; rock hammer - 1; carabiners - 8; crampons - 4 pairs; tent - 1.
5. Bivouac sites - on glaciers and their moraines, on the Southeastern plateau of Panoramnaya Peak.